I installed a Navigation Upgrade Module yesterday and it seems that it triggered the Check Engine light when the car computer lost sync with the module that I removed. Is there a way for me to reset the light so it doesn't come on or do I have to take it to the dealer? I have a 2016 1LT. Thanks in advance for any insight as to how it's done.

 

If you don't own a ODBII/CAN scan tool, your local AutoZone will read the codes and reset them for free.

 

Disconnect the battery for a few minutes and see if that works.

 

Ah, thanks. I was going to ask if disconnecting the battery might work.

 

i agree with Zymurgy, get the scanner... you can use it on all vehicles and it is extremely useful to have...

 

Thanks. That might be something for the long term but for now I'd like to get it done soon. With my luck I'll brick the car if I try it myself.

 

I picked up this scanner to use with my iPhone. It's compatible with several different apps, just plug it in, pick it as your wifi and fire up the app. There are lots of them on the market though to choose from.

 

Just for FYI, the are up to 20 onboard modules in the C7. A typical obd2 scanner will only clear the pcm engine codes. The nav, abs, radio, suspension, and other modules can not be cleared with those scanners. You need access to a GM MDI2 or a GM pass through cable with the GM GDS2 software available for $57 for 3 days. The pass through cable J2534 mongoose is the cheapest option at~$500.

Your car is still under warranty, so a trip to the dealer is your best option for now to clear. Just don't tell them you upgraded the nav module as this may void the warranty.

 

OK, this looks simple enough, I just ordered it and I'll give it a try. Thanks for the tip.

 

The OP has a Check Engine Light. That can be reset with an OBDII scanner.

 

I wonder if something else is up? I've also added factory nav to mine and no check engine light. I pulled the neg on the batt though before tearing into it.

 

I contacted Chris at OEM Auto Parts (where I bought the nav upgrade) and he said this does happen on occasion when the car computer gets tripped up when it loses sync with the module. And I did not disconnect the battery when switching out the module.

 

Update...

This turned out to be much ado about nothing. I just disconnected the battery for 15 minutes and hooked it back up and the Check Engine light went out. Thanks for all the advice. I ordered the OBDII scanner but I will hang on to it for future use.

 

How do you reset the battery. Should I unhook the red or black side and what order?

 

Disconnecting battery resets & reboots computers.
Disconnect black/neg first, eliminates chance of spark.
Hooking up new battery, red/pos first, then neg.

 

Hi All,

FWIW,

I installed the module on the side of the Blue Ridge Parkway at Peaks of Otter after driving the car for the first 500 miles. My check engine light came on, about the time I was done cursing and cycled the car on and off once or twice the light went out by itself.

Thanks Kevin

 

 

I was told (by them) that they aren't legally allowed to reset/clear codes; just read them.

 

I would suspect they do that as corporate policy Vs any state or federal regulation that rules they can't do it. Why take the liability of turning it off and then having somebody come back and say you ruined my engine? Seems to be a total down side risk with not a whisper of upside. If they replace your battery the process automatically resets the codes so if there was a regulation it would also prohibit them from replacing your battery. As for telling Customers it is illegal that is just an easy way to hide what your real position is.

Bill

 

I wanted to provide an update to this thread the pretty much mirrors earlier comments about how voltage sensitive these cars are. I have a 2019 Z06 that I ordered and took delivery in July of 2018 so the car is almost 2.5 years old. I work out of my home office and due to the crazy Covid world we now live in, I really don't get to drive the car as much as I want to, plus my driving time is split with my C5 convertible.

I have battery tenders for both cars, however I only used them pre-Covid when I was traveling on business and knew the cars were going to sit for an extended period. On two separate occasions after my C7Z has sat in my garage for 10+ days without being driven, I've had various DIC and service error message appear. The first time, was about 6 months ago during the initial Covid shut down when after a rough, strained cold start, I received the "Service Rear Axle" message followed by a rough idle. I drove the car a short distance running some local errands, and when I re-started the car, the message went away and everything was fine. I had a service appointment at the dealership the next week for my second free oil change and told the Corvette tech about the error code. They scanned the system and could not find anything and agreed it was probably due to the battery being partially drained. Fast forward to this week, after another 14-day period of inactivity, I started the car and shortly thereafter, had the DIC message "Reduced Engine Power Warning" pop up which did result in a reduction of engine power as the engine wouldn't rev at all beyond the idle. However, in addition to the DIC message, my Check Engine light also displayed on the dash. After shutting the car down, I restarted and although the "Reduced Engine Power Warning" DIC message did not return, the Check Engine light remained lit on the dash.

I plugged in my CTEK battery tender overnight and noticed it took over 10 hours to trickle charge the battery back up to green or fully charged mode. I removed the tender rear power outlet connection and started the car. Again, it started fine with no DIC error message, but the check engine light remained. I then disconnected the battery, negative then positive, waited 15 minutes and reconnected positive then negative, and restarted the car. Started fine and the Check Engine light disappeared.

I know I need to get into the habit of hooking up the battery tender on a more regular basis, however since it took over 10 hours to recharge it last time, I may be looking into a new battery sooner than later. My only performance mods are a Borla X-pipe, a Tony Momo ported TB, and the GM Jake CAI. I added the lighted coupe wind restrictor, however that's wired into the auxiliary power fuse so that shouldn't be an issue for the battery.