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Range devices have been known to kill a battery in 3 to 4 days. Perhaps the first time that you left it in and waited for five days and barely just started, this time it wouldn't do it at all. I'd diagnose the health of the battery. Charge it to 12.6 resting, and leave the range off for three weeks or so and see if the problem continues.

 

My battery went completely dead overnight after my 600 mile drive home from the Bash. Dealer charged and tested it and said it passed. Still haven't figured out what drained it so quickly.

 

Lots of electronics. Put the battery maintainer on each night and start it up the next morning.

 

If your driving a few times a week (assuming ~100 miles or more total) should not be needed. The C7 unlike some prior Vettes has a circuit that shuts off all significant power after ~10 minutes and has all but a small power drain after 30 minutes, even if you leave an interior light on.

My battery has read a low voltage since new, ~12.4 volts after the surface charge has depleted. Had the dealer check when I went back for something else in October 2013 when I got it. They said it was fine but did not pull the battery and run a load test.

I bought the GM equivalent battery charger to see if my typical 40 mile round trips to town were not enough to fully charge. It took a day to fully charge but read the same ~12.4 volts with an accurate meter after the surface charge was depleted (takes ~12 hrs.). Still reads the same. Wife's car reads 12.9 and my Street Rod wit a 5 year old Yellow Optima, 13.1 volts.

That said have not used the charger for 2 1/2 years. Mine is a DD and connecting and disconnecting a charger is a PIA! The car has sat twice for 2 1/2 weeks while on vacation and started right-up. After a few days of 40 mile drives, tested and the same 12.4 volts. It no doubt has a week cell. Note I have had a Window Valet installed in the OBD port for over a year. Not sure what amperage it draws but has no been a problem. In fact was on a cruise this past February and gone for 15 days. It was cold when I returned and it started right up!

On Friday checked at AutoZone and they have an AGM replacement battery that has the required recessed terminals needed to hold the large power board that bolts to the positive terminal. (Note an Optima and many other proper outside dimension batteries do not have the correct top configuration.) It also has a recess in the middle for the hold-down. It has 900 CCA's more than the OEM conventional battery. Price is $164, not bad. I'm going to replace the battery before winter just to be safe and change it when I want not when it's dead!

This is a pic I pasted together from the 2014 Service Manual. It indicates the car should be able to sit for ~30 days and still start! FWIW




If fully charged car should start after 30 to 35 days

 

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Checked the 1015 page Section 11 entitled Wiring Systems and Power Management. Thumbed thru but did not read and digest all the info!
Found several pages with B codes but no B2615. Nor where there any with the title Passenger Compartment Dimming that I saw. There are several B26xx that say Passenger Seat limit Switch etc but nothing I scanned that said dome lamp.
Scanned thru 50 pages of codes and none that said anything with Dimmer in the title.

However did find in Section 4, Lighting, code B2615 02 "Short to Ground!" It says "The BCM detects a short to ground in the dome/courtesy lamps control circuit terminal 1 X7." Not much else.
Hmm, did you install radar detector power from that area??

 

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Hi,
I installed my radar detector power from fuse 37 on the rear panel. It is the 20 amp circuit for the dash receptacle you tapped.

I had tried tapping the passenger sun visor light as I did on my '88 and '93 but that tripped a circuit breaker. I know fuse 37 sounds like a long way to go but someone posted you didn't need to remove anything to get the wire back just pull back the carpet molding with your hands and slip the wire in, so I did. Took <5 minutes! I also used an Add-A-Circuit and a 2 amp fuse. The positive wire is fused all the way from the rear fuse panel.
I connected the ground to a screw under the dash on the passenger side. Have had no problem in 2 1/2 years.
Have no idea if that could be an issue unless perhaps there is a high resistance sort in the positive side to ground. Otherwise fuse 37 would blow.

 

Just curious, for the codes B2615 and C0800, why aren't you just taking the car to the dealership for repair? It's a 2016 and is under warranty.

 

I don't trust shops and dealer, especially in my state.