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FWIW, in 18 months of almost daily driving my car, I've maybe seen 14.8v once or twice, and only very, very briefly. When alternator is charging, the normal highest readings are 14.5-14.7, which drops down to 12.8-12.9 when battery reaches full charge. I also see everything in between periodically
I monitor that almost continuously because I keep the summary display up on the right side of the DIC center screen, which provides a digital readout of multiple parameters (e.g. charging voltage, tire pressure OK, water and oil temp, etc.).
I put in an AGM battery a couple of weeks ago, and I'm seeing the same readings I saw w/ the OEM battery. In fact, I really didn't need to make the change, OEM battery was still healthy, but at 3.5 years, I figured I might as well be proactive.
Just an additional comment about AGM batteries.. We just bought a Malibu with auto start technology, and the manual does say to use ONLY AGM batteries, so it does appear that they are able to take more frequent starts and may even charge faster than conventional batteries.
My first Optima Red Top in my first C5 was on the charger constantly when not in use (which was infrequent) and lasted 9 years. My second Optima was a Red Top and bought about 5 years later, lasted less than two years with more frequent use in my other C5. My third Optima was a Yellow Top for my first C5 and lasted less than three years with infrequent use and on a charger constantly.
I couldn't find an Optima for the C7 but would not have bought one anyway due to the lack of performance I'd gotten in my last two. Hopefully, this new Die Hard will have decent life/reliability in my dd.
It's not the same Optima battery that performed well for many of us 10 or more years ago. The company was sold, no doubt to capitalize on the following they developed, but they get a lot of complaints these days, and no longer have a good reputation.
According to him, the manufacturer has them designed where they all last about 3 years.
I have no experience with AGMs in cars, but I've used them for 10 years in my Harley, now on its fourth. The original Harley AGM (Deka) lasted 2½ years, the second and third (Deka unbranded, same battery) two years each, and the fourth has been on the bike for a bit over three years and is still working fine. It's a Chinese AGM that's a bit cheaper than the made-in-USA Deka. I tried it because I wasn't happy with the 2-yr. lifespan I was getting with the Dekas.
A quick general question on AGM batteries: any concerns about using one where they weren't originally specified? I have never used one but I am getting ready to order a new GMC Sierra diesel pickup and while looking through the supplemental manual for the diesel engine, which also covers the little diesel used in GM's midsize trucks, I saw that the midsize (Canyon, Colorado) with the small diesel come with an AGM battery and the manual warns not to use a regular battery charger with them since it should be limited to a maximum of 14.8 volts during the charge cycle. Any concerns about the standard vehicle electrical system allowing excessive charging voltage?
No issues with charging. Replaced my OEM C6 battery with an Optima AGM. Charging system is fine. No issues with my C7 for the ~7 months I had it before selling.
Where I never could get the original battery to read more than 12.4 volts (after the surface charge was depleted ~12 hours) the AGM read 12.9! I no doubt had a weak cell in the Delco. When charging, IF the charger has an AGM tape it can charge to a higher voltage. Some chargers have that setting but it's not critical.
My Street Rod has a 7 year old Optima Yellow Top AGM. It is always on a simple Schumacher charger and so far not issues! Does make me nervous as the sedan has electric doors and windows and the battery is inside! At car shows I leave a window open so I can get inside if I need a jump!
I changed out the battery in my 2014 Convertible, this afternoon and... I have done valve jobs that were easier than this!
Jerry U's article on changing out his coupe's battery was very helpful! After reading it and reviewing his pics and tips, I found nothing I didn't recognize. http://netwelding.com/Battery_Issues.pdf
However, the convertible offers less room for working on and removing the battery than Jerry's coupe. The rear wheel cover can not be moved for additional room as he demonstrates in his article.
On my car, the fuse block over the positive terminal (picture on Page 4 of Jerry's article) had three smaller wires attached where his picture shows two. I recommend you unscrew those wires (8mm captured nuts) so the fuse block can be completely removed. The wires are numbered as is the fuse block so you won't mistake which terminal they go to. Bending the fuse block out of the way in the convertible didn't work for me and disconnecting the small wires and reconnecting them was easy. Also, the large red wire held on with the 13mm nut should be reconnected before the fuse block is reset in place. This will help to keep from cross threading it onto the stud.
I pulled the old battery out using two vice grips (one on each terminal, with rubber gloves, of course!) which worked really well. You just have to start lifting the right side up and out first to clear the fender well. Installing the new battery was pretty easy without tools, making sure the right side goes down and in first.
Jerry recommended the Diehard sizeG48, Model #50748 AGM battery. I'm a little concerned with Sears' financial future and found the exact same battery under the AutoCraft name, sold by Advance Auto Parts. Their part number is Platinum H6-AGM. It listed at $176.00 but, when I looked them up on the internet, they offered me an immediate 20% off. I didn't buy right away and went back to their site a few days later. They then offered me an immediate 25% off, which I went for! Core charge is $22.00, which they refunded when I brought back the old battery.
I also bought (from Amazon) an OBDII cable that plugs into a 12V source. The idea being that if you plug the cable in before you unhook your battery and remove it after the new battery is installed, you won't lose your settings. It did NOT work. Maybe it's faulty or maybe I did something incorrectly or maybe the C7 just doesn't lend itself to such possibilities but, my recommendation is... save your money.
Anyway, car is back together and every thing works perfectly. I could probably cut my time in half if I did it again... which I WON'T... ever!
I changed out the battery in my 2014 Convertible, this afternoon and... I have done valve jobs that were easier than this!
Jerry U's article on changing out his coupe's battery was very helpful! After reading it and reviewing his pics and tips, I found nothing I didn't recognize. http://netwelding.com/Battery_Issues.pdf
However, the convertible offers less room for working on and removing the battery than Jerry's coupe. The rear wheel cover can not be moved for additional room as he demonstrates in his article.
On my car, the fuse block over the positive terminal (picture on Page 4 of Jerry's article) had three smaller wires attached where his picture shows two. I recommend you unscrew those wires (8mm captured nuts) so the fuse block can be completely removed. The wires are numbered as is the fuse block so you won't mistake which terminal they go to. Bending the fuse block out of the way in the convertible didn't work for me and disconnecting the small wires and reconnecting them was easy. Also, the large red wire held on with the 13mm nut should be reconnected before the fuse block is reset in place. This will help to keep from cross threading it onto the stud.
I pulled the old battery out using two vice grips (one on each terminal, with rubber gloves, of course!) which worked really well. You just have to start lifting the right side up and out first to clear the fender well. Installing the new battery was pretty easy without tools, making sure the right side goes down and in first.
Jerry recommended the Diehard sizeG48, Model #50748 AGM battery. I'm a little concerned with Sears' financial future and found the exact same battery under the AutoCraft name, sold by Advance Auto Parts. Their part number is Platinum H6-AGM. It listed at $176.00 but, when I looked them up on the internet, they offered me an immediate 20% off. I didn't buy right away and went back to their site a few days later. They then offered me an immediate 25% off, which I went for! Core charge is $22.00, which they refunded when I brought back the old battery.
I also bought (from Amazon) an OBDII cable that plugs into a 12V source. The idea being that if you plug the cable in before you unhook your battery and remove it after the new battery is installed, you won't lose your settings. It did NOT work. Maybe it's faulty or maybe I did something incorrectly or maybe the C7 just doesn't lend itself to such possibilities but, my recommendation is... save your money.
Anyway, car is back together and every thing works perfectly. I could probably cut my time in half if I did it again... which I WON'T... ever!
I also took the fuse box and everything else around it off that I could just to make things easier... I had rather spend time removing things than to wrestle with them when trying to handle the battery. I found it easier to take the battery over the fender instead of over the bumper, but I almost had to stand the battery on end to get it out of the well.
Just chiming in on my experience with current Optima Yellow Top batteries. Installed one in a 2007 2 years ago. No problems so far, but removed in winter and placed on a battery tender. Still strong as I would expect. Installed one in a Jeep CJ7 4 years ago, we use as a plow vehicle. It sits all summer (May - October) in the Jeep, with no tender attached. Left the ignition on accidentally once and drained it dead the 1st year. It came back fine. It started the Jeep after this latest summer siesta, which took some time, as always (old gas maybe?). It seems to be doing fine. I read a lot of bad about the newer Optima's, but have not experience it yet.
I changed out the battery in my 2014 Convertible, this afternoon and... I have done valve jobs that were easier than this!
Jerry U's article on changing out his coupe's battery was very helpful! After reading it and reviewing his pics and tips, I found nothing I didn't recognize.
[URL="http://netwelding.com/Battery_Issues.pdf"]http://netwelding.com/Battery_Issues.pdf]
Jerry recommended the Diehard sizeG48, Model #50748 AGM battery. I'm a little concerned with Sears' financial future and found the exact same battery under the AutoCraft name, sold by Advance Auto Parts. Their part number is Platinum H6-AGM. It listed at $176.00 but, when I looked them up on the internet, they offered me an immediate 20% off. I didn't buy right away and went back to their site a few days later. They then offered me an immediate 25% off, which I went for! Core charge is $22.00, which they refunded when I brought back the old battery.
Anyway, car is back together and every thing works perfectly. I could probably cut my time in half if I did it again... which I WON'T... ever!
Sears doesn't make batteries nor do most resellers! Saw the same battery as Sears at AutoZone. Our ASME section visited Johnson Controls in town who are one of the major battery suppliers. At the end of the production line was a station with over 20 brand labels that were put on depending on demand.
The operate a JIT system and can deliver one battery to a retailer, if requested.
Just chiming in on my experience with current Optima Yellow Top batteries. Installed one in a 2007 2 years ago. No problems so far, but removed in winter and placed on a battery tender. Still strong as I would expect. Installed one in a Jeep CJ7 4 years ago, we use as a plow vehicle. It sits all summer (May - October) in the Jeep, with no tender attached. Left the ignition on accidentally once and drained it dead the 1st year. It came back fine. It started the Jeep after this latest summer siesta, which took some time, as always (old gas maybe?). It seems to be doing fine. I read a lot of bad about the newer Optima's, but have not experience it yet.
FWIW, installed a Yellow Top Optima in my C6. It will not fit a C7 nor do they have a configuration that will. The C7 needs recessed terminals to fit the large power board on the positive terminal.
Also have a Yellow Top in my Street Rod. It will be 8 years old and runs fine but as I have electric doors, no door handles, only remote access and the battery is not accessible except from inside the car, I am planning on replacing it. The battery hold down is custom built for that model Optima battery.
I have recently checked with Jegs and Summit tech departments as I bought many products for my Street Rod through them. I have always gotten a straight story and good advice. One said no recent issues with Optima. The other said there were problems for a short time some years ago when production was moved to Mexico but he had not had any negative reports in recent years. I believe the problems that are still reported are old QC issues now resolved. Johnson Controls now owned Optima and is a first class company with excellent engineers. They have the skill to fix issues when necessary. I will buy a replacement Optima! Will probably buy it from Jegs or Summit.
There is another AGM option, but more expensive than the Sears battery, there is the Odyssey Performance Series, Part# 0752-2020, Model: 48-720. USA made battery with 99% pure lead content. Was a pain the the butt job on my Vert. Would have been easy if the Delco battery had had a handle. Have used Odyssey in my boats & Seadoo's, they last years if you keep them charged with a maintainer.
One small tip. You can make simple 'handles' out of nylon webbing. Tilt the battery a little and slip two nylon straps under. You can then carefully lift the battery up and out. I keep the straps in the rear cubby hole.
Wow
What an ordeal just to change a battery. Thanks for the write up.
Sam's Club members can get a Duracell AGM (760 CCA) for $159.76 (plus tax) with free installation. Just had the same battery put in my wife's Enclave last week (in a similar size well). They said it wasn't the simplest install they had done but didn't charge me any thing. The Duracell looks like the Die Hard pictured above. Maybe they make the Sears battery.
I went thru these really quickly, so I apologize if someone said this: In the How To section at top of page it covers the removal/replacement of our batteries.
Sam's Club members can get a Duracell AGM (760 CCA) for $159.76 (plus tax) with free installation. Just had the same battery put in my wife's Enclave last week (in a similar size well). They said it wasn't the simplest install they had done but didn't charge me any thing. The Duracell looks like the Die Hard pictured above. Maybe they make the Sears battery.
FWIW, we toured the Johnson Controls battery plant in our town. They are one of the largest manufactures of batteries in the country. At the end of the manufacturing line there were over 20 labels, Diehard and many others. The workers were placing labels on the various batteries. They deliver in a JIT (Just In Time) basis. If a Sears store, etc sells one type they deliver that one to replace it!
You don’t see a Johnson Controls battery, just all the other brands you find in stores!
PS: Reinforcing the last paragraph in my post #52 above: The problems with Optima Batteries is "Old News!" Johnson Controls bought Optima Batteries in ~2000. They moved the plant to Mexico and there were reports of QA problems. Both Jegs and Summit techs who I recently talked with said NO current problems and one said have not been for over 5 years! (Have a lot of respect for both of those folks as bought many products and gotten very good advice for my street rod!) I'm buying a replacement for the 8 year old Yellow Top in my Street Rod just as precaution, it's working fine! Note Optima WILL NOT FIT A C7!
Installed a Sears DieHard AGM battery today! Fits fine and has the required vent holes for the vent hose that is on the OEM battery! Yep AGM's can vent if overcharged and as with normal batteries it generates hydrogen. Prepared a PDF and quote a marine source warning that even AGM's must be vented!
As most shade tree mechanics there are often some tricks on the install. This has several! Had to check my 2014 Service Manual several times and as usual you sometimes get a clue but not an answer! To remove the large power block from the positive terminal, the Manual states: "Remove Clips!" No mention of where they are and looking around the confined area was no help nor was it obvious. Finally tried an approach with a screwdriver that worked! The PDF has many pics and one shows where to put the screwdriver!
This G48 size is Sears model number 50748. The OEM Delco conventional battery is model number 48PS. They both have recessed terminals needed to properly locate the power block. The CCA (Cold Cracking Amps) @ 0F for the Diehard AGM is 760 amps. The OEM Delco is 565.
Pricing was interesting. Received an email with a special discount price of $133 plus tax. Called the local store and it was $176 plus tax. The store could not match the price and told me to buy on the Net and pick it up there -which I did. Picked it up at the store in the afternoon!
If Sears Automotive is still in business, then I'll be going with the Die-Hard AGM 760 CCA in my C7.
I've been using the 850 CCA, AGM Die-Hard in my Mercedes-Benz turbodiesel I6, for 4-years now. ��
FWIW AMGs do last longer. I recently changed the Optima Yellow Top in my street rod after 10 years! In fairness it is always on a charger. That is a big help in extending life. In fact it was still working BUT as I have electric doors and the battery is inside the sedan a PIA if it fails!
Actually if in the garage I have a way to access the positive wire to the driver's door solenoid. Have to reach under and grab the taped end of a wire I spliced to the one going to the solenoid from the PC board that controls doors and windows with a remote. Then use jumpers from that wire end and frame. However if at a show it would be a PIA! Attended the first Car Show since the install this past Saturday.
09-15-2017, 10:09 AM
After reading it and reviewing his pics and tips, I found nothing I didn't recognize.
