I put this here because only a C7 can be bought new...

I've bought a number of new cars in my life. And I always have the vague feeling I've probably overpaid, even when I make what I know is an excellent deal (I won't buy unless the deal is excellent).

But, like salaries, most of us tend to hold close what we pay for our cars, and that is I think a mistake. Especially on a Corvette Forum, where sharing that data could help others make better deals.

Here is some experience I have to offer, and bear in mind these cars are commodity cars, Jeep Grand Cherokee, Toyota Avalon, Toyota Camry. Please read and consider the entire post before replying...

In 1997 I wanted a Jeep Grand Cherokee. These cars were hot, hot, hot at that time, and dealers were not really making good deals. After all, they could sell every one they could get.

Long story short, I picked one off the lot that had a sticker of $29,500. I visited multiple dealerships. I went to my local dealer and picked on off the lot. Test drove it. And then got into repeated negotiations, getting to know and like the sales manager. I made sure to be dealing on the car at the end of the month, when he needed to make his numbers. And, he let slip (I really think he got to comfortable in all our schmoozing) that six more cars and he'd get a big factory spiff. I also realize that could have been a tactic on his part.

Longer story short, my final price was $23,540, plus Maryland title, tags and sales tax. No extra upholstery treatment, no extended warranties, nothing but the car, as I wanted it, right off the lot.

Next, my ex-wife's Avalon. We had two young kids, and I always bought her the safest car possible, within what she wanted to be driving. Another car stickering in the high $29K range. Long story short, much negotiation, $25,600. Still not happy with that deal, but Avalon's were hot at the time, and this one was loaded. My wife wanted but wasn't expecting the power sunroof, I still remember her reaction when I brought her the car. Well worth the few extra bucks over the deal I could have made on a more basic Avalon.

Next, my 2011 Camry. With multiple Corvettes at the time, I needed a sedan to drive my now adult kids and others around in. The Camry I wanted was around $21K on the sticker, and there were plenty to choose from. Multiple dealers and much negotiation later, my final deal, sticker $20,900 and final price, $15,750.

No haggle pricing? Nonsense. Overpay and be on your way.

These models are in high demand, we don't have to discount them (or discount them much)...Adios, amigo, I'll take my business elsewhere.

The thing to remember, whether you are buying a Camry or a Corvette is - wait for it -

You hold all the power. 100%. Because you are holding the $.

And if they want to sell you a car, it will have to be on your terms at your price, of you will find someone else who will.

Amazing how dealers will start to deal when it is the end of the month, they have numbers to make, and a customer with a loaded checkbook is right in front of them. Sure, they won't give the car away, but they typically won't let you walk away either. Once they have invested some time, they don't want you buying somewhere else.

A Corvette is a toy. No one has to own one. Plenty of dealers have them sitting on their lots, tying up inventory $. Many people look, but few actually purchase a Corvette. If you are serious about buying a Corvette, you are a valuable commodity to any dealer. As with any car, keep a poker face, stay calm, be friendly and relaxed, and keep in mind you hold the checkbook. You have the power. And always, always, always be prepared to walk if you aren't getting what you want.

Because in my experience, every dealer I go to will eventually hit a price beyond which it is not worth selling the car. When you find that, you've made the best deal you are going to make, and then the decision is - is it worth it to you. If it is, buy. If not, rethink what you are doing.

And watch out for 'non-negotiable' costs, especially things printed on the sales form. EVERYTHING is negotiable in a car deal. Absolutely everything except state title fees, tags and sales tax. Every single cost the dealer applies, from the car to "documentation" or whatever, is negotiable. Only the final bottom line price matters. And you have more control over that than you might realize.

I'd like to see a section of Corvette Forum where buyers post the sticker price, the bottom line drive away price, and a narrative about their dealings. Not sure the forum sponsors would like that, but if necessary, another forum could be established for that.

When you buy a Corvette, wouldn't it be great to be able to go to a database, and see what people in your area, and elsewhere, are actually paying?

 

Oh, and watch out once you've made the deal. Then the dealers start shuffling you around to various other personnel, while you are tired and they are fresh. Keep a very close eye on anything added to the negotiated price. NOTHING should be added if you made a deal. No 'documentation' or 'administrative' fees. Nonsense. I got through four hours of negotiating on a 2007 Jeep and when finishing up the paperwork, another $400 showed up. They would not remove it, stating it was applied to every vehicle sold. I ended up having them shred all the paperwork, and walked out. And never went back.

Remember, while there may be reputable dealers out there, I haven't met them yet. Every last one tries every trick in the book and then some to wiggle more money out of you. Remember it is a polite war when you buy a car.

Be sure the deal you negotiated and shook hands on is the one you left the building with.

 

Good info, but I'd go with a forum sponsored dealer and shop online exclusively. Much less hassle, and eliminates common dealer tactics such as being stuck in the dealership, those extra add-ons, etc...

Like I'll tell anyone, the best deal is the one you're comfortable with, there's always a better price to be had and there will always be someone online who paid less, and price below sticker isn't always a mark of a good deal. Saving 10-20% under sticker may seem great but say for a Shelby GT350 even 1-2% under sticker for the past two years would be considered a great deal.

As for the database doesn't TrueCar already do that?

 

You make some good points. To them I'll add the fact that many buyers feel entitled to buying a new car at a price that the dealership makes zero profit or even takes a loss. Ask me how I know. The "polite war" is definitely not one-sided. I've always believed that a good deal is one that is good for both sides.

 

Good points. I think most people, certainly myself, know the dealer has to make a profit on the sale of a car. Also, I doubt any dealer sells any car at a loss, unless for example, meeting a month end number gets a factory spiff that outpaces the loss taken. All simple business decisions.

Dealers also make a lot of money on service and parts, and I don't begrudge them that. Business is business, and profit is not a dirty word.

All that said, I like to know that when I drive away, I did the best deal I possibly could have. I owe that to my family and myself, just as the dealer owes a reasonable return to himself, his employees and any investors.

 

I think along the same lines. Too many get caught up in worrying about what someone else paid.

Someone will always pay less, someone will always pay more.

I determine what I think is a fair price for me and work from that.

I'm not one of those that think dealers should be non-profit organizations.

Most of us are in business to make a profit.

 

I have no quarrel with a dealership wanting to make a profit and keep the lights on; but I can't stand the "games" that so many of them like to play. I have gone in to buy a car (never bought a Corvette yet) with excellent credit (a 'cash buyer' with a check in hand), my own financing, no trade-in vehicle and I already know more about the vehicle than most typical salesmen.

I usually get a "Kelley Blue Book" price, a printout from my credit union and even a "Costco" price on the car. Of course, I look at TrueCar.com and Edmunds for comparison. I am not going to fight a dealer over a hundred bucks -- but they almost act as though they want you to buy the dealership instead of just a car. LOL!

In years past when I have thought I got a fair deal, I still had a sinking feeling that everyone was "high-fiving" each other the minute I drove off the lot. Since the Internet has grown in usage and credit unions & banks have dealerships that promise to meet a certain "pre-negotiated" price, it has made things easier.

My advice is to do it sort of like a "bid" for a construction job. Put out what you want to three or four different dealerships. Tell them that you want their 'best price' up front and that you are giving them the opportunity to earn your business. When you get their replies, you should have a reasonable figure.

If you don't have a trade-in, are not upside-down in your old car loan, have good credit and know pretty much what you want.......it will make it easier for you AND for the dealership. I don't want to waste their time - but am not up for helping them make yacht payments either. LOL! You'd think that being an "easy" or fast sale with little headache might be nicer than dealing with customers who have poor credit, a jalopy for a trade-in, can't get insurance or don't have a clue what they really want.

Nothing is worse than getting a "bottom line" price that seems reasonable - only to have another $700 (or more) tacked on as "documentation fees," dealer prep or something they euphemistically refer to as market adjustment. The local Toyota dealer here adds $699 on the price of new AND used cars; but they always exclude this in their advertising - which is kind of disingenuous. Avoiding that kind of BS makes it well worth it to drive to another state, just as a matter of principle.

It sure seems (from what I read) that our Corvette Forum dealerships are much different in this regard. I find that VERY refreshing!


P.S. A friend of mine used to sell cars at a very unscrupulous dealership and his favorite "add on" was called A.D.P. He said one in 50 people might question it, but it stood for Additional Dealer Profit!

Caveat Emptor!
;-)

 

Nonsense about no documentation fees? Sorry, but you are wrong.

Ask any of our customers about our pricing and the lack of dealer documentation fees.

Not all automotive dealerships are the same...

 

People in NH are fortunate to have a "no nonsense" buying experience. Your state residents don't even have to pay sales tax either! I suppose out-of-state buyers have to either pay it to you or when they register their cars at home.

I have been impressed by the posts I have seen from all three of the major East Coast Corvette dealers.

 

With all the information/resources available nowadays on the internet, there is no need to spend hours at a dealership haggling (unless you like that part). I remember the "bad old days" when the salesperson had all the inside info and the buyer had few resources. Things are much, much different now.

Also, and I may get flamed for saying it, all auto salespeople are not crooked/cheats who's primary interest is in taking every penny possible from the customer. Sure, there are still some (a small fraction IMO) out there, but with all the transpancy there is in car buying nowadays it doesn't pay to try to play games with most customers.

 

You say you negotiated for four hours on a jeep?

All the cars I've ever bought wouldn't add up to anywhere close to 4 hours of total negotiations.

You must either really enjoy negotiating or being "that guy" or you consider your time not worth very much.

Go in, make friendly, know your numbers, ink the deal. Done.

I bought a new denali dually last week, I was at the dealership for less than 20 minutes.

 

The idea of a database is a good one, but the amount of information needed is substantial. It would have to include options included with each car, whether purchased new or used, if used is it certified. Other information for used cars would include accident information and other disclosures from Carfax or Autocheck. In Service date is important because it could identify cars that are no longer covered by factory bumper to bumper warranty which directly affects price.
A database that includes only new C7s would be of limited value. If you want the best price, contact one or all of the big three east coast dealers and compare your local price to their price including all fees, i.e. "out the door" price. Use that as a negotiating tool with your local dealer or buy from one of the big dealers and have the car courtesy shipped to a local dealer.
As for the comment about all fees are negotiable, no that's incorrect. In North Carolina, the state law requires all dealers to charge their customers the same documentation fee, no negotiation possible. Not all dealers have the same fee, but once a dealer charges, as an example, a $500 doc fee to their first customer that year, they must charge $500 for each car sold that year. Now you can change the "out the door price", but the documents will show the same documentation fee that's the same for every car that dealership sells.
I set up a database when I purchased my C7 because I considered buying a used C7. I found that the longer a dealer held a used car, the lower the price went. At some point the dealer loses interest in selling the car and sends it out for wholesale.