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My 2014 M7 Z51 has 10K miles and I only changed the oil. Should I be changing other fluid (tranny) also??
Read this thread again and you will see 2 camps: 1 that changes everything much earlier than what the manual recommends and the other that follows the manual. I think you will have to make your own decision on what YOU think is best. But there are countless threads here and elsewhere (Google is your friend) so do some homework and then decide. 99% of the time you ask a question here you will get different opinions (as well as every other car & motorcycle forum I have been on).
thank you all i think i will change out and use the amsoil as i hear good things the sycromax is good but the purple dye is no where close to stock GM oil and if problem can be detected and might throw red flag for a warranty
thank you all i think i will change out and use the amsoil as i hear good things the sycromax is good but the purple dye is no where close to stock GM oil and if problem can be detected and might throw red flag for a warranty
Countless threads on that topic as well - they cannot deny a warranty claim for using a different oil that meets or exceeds OEM specs.
My 2014 M7 Z51 has 10K miles and I only changed the oil. Should I be changing other fluid (tranny) also??
Its not that you should or have to change it but as others commented, certain oils will make shifting a bit smoother and less clunky. I prefer Amsoil and its always allowed easier shifting in all of my cars both auto and manual trans.
I would stick with the GM fluid.
Not sure how other fluids affect the internals of C7 transmission, but on C5 going to synthetic or fluid other than GM caused some shifting problems. A friend tried that and when he went back to GM fluid, the problems went away.
GM recommends sticking with the GM fluid. The M7 has triple syncros on some gears, quite probably 2nd is one. One is carbon faced. They indicated the GM fluid is compatible with that material.
Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieA from Houston I bought my 2016 Stingray new and have put 2,000 miles on it; the m7 is a delight, EXCEPT for a really stiff 2nd gear. Could my stiff shifting problem be mis-adjusted linkage [actually feels like a slow synchronizer issue]? Happens going both up & down into 2nd. All comments appreciated.
I'm not sure what the deal is with that. I too have a '16 Stingray (~14K miles) and my 2nd gear is also stiff (and 'notchy') and requires care to get it in gear completely. I took mine in a few months ago to check it and the dealer "adjusted the shifter linkage". Its a bit better now but its still not as smooth as all the other gears.
My solution? I don't use it (much). I routinely shift 1st to 3rd, and that is smooth as silk. YMMV
This is what i came up with, since the C7 have carbon sycros and not paper type as older vettes had , were ok to use synthetic oils so royal purple is more recommended over redline and amsoil tho"" they are good but some complaints that they are good at first but tend to wear out faster. so i will give it a try and post some pics of the stock 12k oil coming out so you all can take a look PS im guessing 4 quarts or slight less is that about right ? for a man oil change
Quote:
Originally Posted by EddieA from Houston I bought my 2016 Stingray new and have put 2,000 miles on it; the m7 is a delight, EXCEPT for a really stiff 2nd gear. Could my stiff shifting problem be mis-adjusted linkage [actually feels like a slow synchronizer issue]? Happens going both up & down into 2nd. All comments appreciated.
I'm not sure what the deal is with that. I too have a '16 Stingray (~14K miles) and my 2nd gear is also stiff (and 'notchy') and requires care to get it in gear completely. I took mine in a few months ago to check it and the dealer "adjusted the shifter linkage". Its a bit better now but its still not as smooth as all the other gears.
My solution? I don't use it (much). I routinely shift 1st to 3rd, and that is smooth as silk. YMMV
lol same here.
I basically go 1-3-5-7 or 1-4-5-7
I almost never use 6th gear. It's like a crappy 7th gear.
I see plenty of track time. I don't feel a compelling need to beat the ever living **** out of my car daily driving.
Apparently, you feel a need to compensate for something.
Nah, I am good brother. I am a little weirded out with your fascination with male reproductive organs. You do understand that going above 3k or even to the redline is not being reckless? Were not talking drifting or drag racing here. For me the car sits in the garage until the weekend. I would not own it if I were going to 3k rpm. Regardless of track time. But like what ya like.
GM recommends sticking with the GM fluid. The M7 has triple syncros on some gears, quite probably 2nd is one. One is carbon faced. They indicated the GM fluid is compatible with that material.
To this point, the new fluid is called "Manual Transmission" fluid. Not just an atf. I'd like to talk to a Mobil rep or engineer to know if Dex 6 would work. The stock fluid is good for 275 F according to gm. I've seen 300 at spring mountain and 280 in my personal car at NCM. The dex 6 is good for 300+ and could be a benefit should it be compatible.
Nah, I am good brother. I am a little weirded out with your fascination with male reproductive organs. You do understand that going above 3k or even to the redline is not being reckless? Were not talking drifting or drag racing here. For me the car sits in the garage until the weekend. I would not own it if I were going to 3k rpm. Regardless of track time. But like what ya like.
Cool story bro. Keep shifting at redline all the time. It makes you super duper cool and your homophobia less conspicuous
To this point, the new fluid is called "Manual Transmission" fluid. Not just an atf. I'd like to talk to a Mobil rep or engineer to know if Dex 6 would work. The stock fluid is good for 275 F according to gm. I've seen 300 at spring mountain and 280 in my personal car at NCM. The dex 6 is good for 300+ and could be a benefit should it be compatible.
yes dextron 6 is compatible with the stock trans oil just synthetic version
I think Mobil atf is the same as long as you dont see dex 4 do to the dex 4 has a diff viscosity Mobil was 2 in a test and Pennzoil was first believe it or not and Royal purple was next to last so Mobil would be a good choice for a more modern Trans oil then stock dino oil
This is what i came up with, since the C7 have carbon sycros and not paper type as older vettes had , were ok to use synthetic oils so royal purple is more recommended over redline and amsoil tho"" they are good but some complaints that they are good at first but tend to wear out faster. so i will give it a try and post some pics of the stock 12k oil coming out so you all can take a look PS im guessing 4 quarts or slight less is that about right ? for a man oil change
So as i promised i will give you my results of my M7 trans oil change
1st - i used Mobil 1 ATF (dex3 ) seems it placed second in test and beat out the Amsoil R.P. Ect Ect . @ 9.95 quart
2nd - it took 3.5 quarts once drained
3rd - oil was starting to gray but still red was dominate and i found small grit pieces in the oil you could feel them rubbing between you fingers and see them on the oil tray
no large metal flakes and since it was colder than usual in S.C. it was thicker than the Mobil 1 that i was putting in
Very easy for anyone to do this change (i have a Max Jax) so easy to get under and work , two plugs to be removed 3/8 drive end, and my fill method was a hose in the bottle cap and apply air use blow gun into bottle and it pushes up the hose and into the fill hole very easy
conclusion was it necessary at 12K miles, no Glad to put the synthetic in rather than the dino oil, it shifts less knotchy in 2nd in the cold, and i did get out some of the break in particles total cost was 40 dollars