Dashlogic reading boost ls9 map
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 563
From: Mount Airy NC
C7 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
Dashlogic reading boost ls9 map
Okay I have dashlogic and switched to ls9 map sensor with my Dyno tune, how do I read boost now? I changed to pid 9 and it is not showing boost accurately. Do I still need to use calculated boost or is there a formula I need to add to pid 9?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,646
Likes: 188
mine works fine... I have it set up a couple of ways to actually measure boost and on another screen I have desired lambda right beside map kpa (100+ is boost)
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 563
From: Mount Airy NC
C7 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I have mine set to pid 9 and I see 4-6psi at idle and 12-14 under boost. Something is not right. Could this have something to do with my car being tuned speed density instead of MAF?
Racer
Joined: Jan 2015
Posts: 486
Likes: 74
Mine reads vacuum, display reads about -11 -10 when idling , and then goes up from there.... I think it goes past 4 but when it hits 4 the meth kicks in and I don't look at the dash anymore while I hold on for the ride .
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 322
From: Denver Colorado
PID 9 is absolute PSI - i.e. you see 5psi at idle compared to vacuum.
If you have your barometer broken out, you can use the calculated PID "Calculated Boost" (like #30001 I believe) which will be the absolute PSI minus the barometer PSI, your your boost compared to the air pressure outside. This would be more like -9psi at idle depending on the density altitude.
If you have your barometer broken out, you can use the calculated PID "Calculated Boost" (like #30001 I believe) which will be the absolute PSI minus the barometer PSI, your your boost compared to the air pressure outside. This would be more like -9psi at idle depending on the density altitude.
Last edited by joemosfet; Nov 13, 2016 at 08:15 PM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 563
From: Mount Airy NC
C7 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
PID 9 is absolute PSI - i.e. you see 5psi at idle compared to vacuum.
If you have your barometer broken out, you can use the calculated PID "Calculated Boost" (like #30001 I believe) which will be the absolute PSI minus the barometer PSI, your your boost compared to the air pressure outside. This would be more like -9psi at idle depending on the density altitude.
If you have your barometer broken out, you can use the calculated PID "Calculated Boost" (like #30001 I believe) which will be the absolute PSI minus the barometer PSI, your your boost compared to the air pressure outside. This would be more like -9psi at idle depending on the density altitude.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 322
From: Denver Colorado
You know, I wanted to see if there was a different PID for the calculated boost based on MAF vs the calculated boost based on MAP-BARO so I plugged in my DC unit to check it out.
Unfortunately, I did not find both, only a pid labeled "Calculated Boost." So now I wonder, how is this boost calculated? On the post I linked above, DashControl said that it did both, but now I wonder...
So, in that case, to remove all question about this, I'd say create a custom calculation using the following formula:
((pid(8) - pid(24)) * .14503773773020923)
pid8 is MAP pressure in KPA, pid24 is the barometer in KPA, and the factor multiplication converts it into PSI.
This will do the proper map-baro calculation that will result in the accurate boost reading your looking for. If you get a chance, make a page with both of these (the calculated boost PID as well as the custom calculated PID above) and see how they compare. I'll also be performing this experiment, once I get my blower back in.
Unfortunately, I did not find both, only a pid labeled "Calculated Boost." So now I wonder, how is this boost calculated? On the post I linked above, DashControl said that it did both, but now I wonder...
So, in that case, to remove all question about this, I'd say create a custom calculation using the following formula:
((pid(8) - pid(24)) * .14503773773020923)
pid8 is MAP pressure in KPA, pid24 is the barometer in KPA, and the factor multiplication converts it into PSI.
This will do the proper map-baro calculation that will result in the accurate boost reading your looking for. If you get a chance, make a page with both of these (the calculated boost PID as well as the custom calculated PID above) and see how they compare. I'll also be performing this experiment, once I get my blower back in.
Last edited by joemosfet; Nov 14, 2016 at 09:57 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 563
From: Mount Airy NC
C7 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
You know, I wanted to see if there was a different PID for the calculated boost based on MAF vs the calculated boost based on MAP-BARO so I plugged in my DC unit to check it out.
Unfortunately, I did not find both, only a pid labeled "Calculated Boost." So now I wonder, how is this boost calculated? On the post I linked above, DashControl said that it did both, but now I wonder...
So, in that case, to remove all question about this, I'd say create a custom calculation using the following formula:
((pid(8) - pid(24)) * .14503773773020923)
pid8 is MAP pressure in KPA, pid24 is the barometer in KPA, and the factor multiplication converts it into PSI.
This will do the proper map-baro calculation that will result in the accurate boost reading your looking for. If you get a chance, make a page with both of these (the calculated boost PID as well as the custom calculated PID above) and see how they compare. I'll also be performing this experiment, once I get my blower back in.
Unfortunately, I did not find both, only a pid labeled "Calculated Boost." So now I wonder, how is this boost calculated? On the post I linked above, DashControl said that it did both, but now I wonder...
So, in that case, to remove all question about this, I'd say create a custom calculation using the following formula:
((pid(8) - pid(24)) * .14503773773020923)
pid8 is MAP pressure in KPA, pid24 is the barometer in KPA, and the factor multiplication converts it into PSI.
This will do the proper map-baro calculation that will result in the accurate boost reading your looking for. If you get a chance, make a page with both of these (the calculated boost PID as well as the custom calculated PID above) and see how they compare. I'll also be performing this experiment, once I get my blower back in.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 563
From: Mount Airy NC
C7 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
You know, I wanted to see if there was a different PID for the calculated boost based on MAF vs the calculated boost based on MAP-BARO so I plugged in my DC unit to check it out.
Unfortunately, I did not find both, only a pid labeled "Calculated Boost." So now I wonder, how is this boost calculated? On the post I linked above, DashControl said that it did both, but now I wonder...
So, in that case, to remove all question about this, I'd say create a custom calculation using the following formula:
((pid(8) - pid(24)) * .14503773773020923)
pid8 is MAP pressure in KPA, pid24 is the barometer in KPA, and the factor multiplication converts it into PSI.
This will do the proper map-baro calculation that will result in the accurate boost reading your looking for. If you get a chance, make a page with both of these (the calculated boost PID as well as the custom calculated PID above) and see how they compare. I'll also be performing this experiment, once I get my blower back in.
Unfortunately, I did not find both, only a pid labeled "Calculated Boost." So now I wonder, how is this boost calculated? On the post I linked above, DashControl said that it did both, but now I wonder...
So, in that case, to remove all question about this, I'd say create a custom calculation using the following formula:
((pid(8) - pid(24)) * .14503773773020923)
pid8 is MAP pressure in KPA, pid24 is the barometer in KPA, and the factor multiplication converts it into PSI.
This will do the proper map-baro calculation that will result in the accurate boost reading your looking for. If you get a chance, make a page with both of these (the calculated boost PID as well as the custom calculated PID above) and see how they compare. I'll also be performing this experiment, once I get my blower back in.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,746
Likes: 1,300
From: Fort McMurray Alberta
2018 C7 of Year Finalist
If I am understanding correctly, the Dashlogic can read accurately off the MAP sensor.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 322
From: Denver Colorado
^I believe without the barometer breakout, the calculation won't be accurate as sometimes the barometer sensor will see boost.
Plus, that DMS kit comes with the LS9 MAP. (You use your stock 1-bar map in the kit for Barometer reading).
Plus, that DMS kit comes with the LS9 MAP. (You use your stock 1-bar map in the kit for Barometer reading).
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,746
Likes: 1,300
From: Fort McMurray Alberta
2018 C7 of Year Finalist
Alright. Ill bite the small bullet and get the DMS kit. Do I need the weld-on bung or no? Performance shop will be installing it as they are currently doing a major overhaul on my car/engine.
Last edited by blue_bomber697; Nov 15, 2016 at 05:45 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2015
Posts: 1,096
Likes: 322
From: Denver Colorado
^Looks like they're boring your block, and doing a cam upgrade? Nice.
If you plan on adding meth now or in the future, the IAT breakout will be required (at least for a safe tune when using methanol.)
As for weld-in bung, if your shop can weld the bung into the charge tube for you great.
I did not use the weld-in bung because my welds look like a Ray Charles special, and my charge tube is powdercoated black, so I'd have to re-powder coat it after drilling and welding.
Instead, I opted to pick up a plastic LS1 sensor (part #WT36036P) and grommet (part #42330 by Dorman) at O'Reilly for like $10 and drilled a 3/4" hole in my manifold behind the throttle body and use it there:
Attachment 48359981
I like it better back here. People will say the metal housing of the LS9 IAT sensor might get heat soaked and cause false readings. Plus, since the IAT is further away from the meth nozzle, it has more of a chance to atomize and perform it's maximum cooling effect for a more accurate reading. Or at least, that's what I tell myself.
If you plan on adding meth now or in the future, the IAT breakout will be required (at least for a safe tune when using methanol.)
As for weld-in bung, if your shop can weld the bung into the charge tube for you great.
I did not use the weld-in bung because my welds look like a Ray Charles special, and my charge tube is powdercoated black, so I'd have to re-powder coat it after drilling and welding.
Instead, I opted to pick up a plastic LS1 sensor (part #WT36036P) and grommet (part #42330 by Dorman) at O'Reilly for like $10 and drilled a 3/4" hole in my manifold behind the throttle body and use it there:
Attachment 48359981
I like it better back here. People will say the metal housing of the LS9 IAT sensor might get heat soaked and cause false readings. Plus, since the IAT is further away from the meth nozzle, it has more of a chance to atomize and perform it's maximum cooling effect for a more accurate reading. Or at least, that's what I tell myself.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,072
Likes: 563
From: Mount Airy NC
C7 of Year Finalist (performance mods) 2019
I also went with the rubber grommet style as well, just easier and cheaper for me. Mine is in my intake pipe after my meth nozzle.
Last edited by chefcg1; Nov 15, 2016 at 06:13 PM.
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,746
Likes: 1,300
From: Fort McMurray Alberta
2018 C7 of Year Finalist
Good to know! And yes, I have meth going in as well. Should be around 800whp or so. Figured reading boost and other info will likely be useful at those levels.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 4,366
Likes: 934
From: Huntsville Alabama
Bumping this, I have had issues with a LT1 car not reading it correctly, and I have forced some manual calculations and got it to work after a update from Autometer/Palmer
But now onto a new car and Module.I have a 2016 Z06 and its not reading it correctly. I have tried everything I can think of. Waiting on a update from them. They did get me a update to see Fan speed that they advertise but did not work, I will try that on this one too soon. But right now working boost. and none of my test have worked
Boost using calculated boost
Pid(30001)
Boost using static Baro reading in Kpa
((pid(8)-102.61)*0.1450
Boost using the Cars pids to calculate (manifold in Kpa - Baro pid in Kpa)
((pid(8))-(pid(24)))*0.1450
Boost using Pid for Manifold - the Baro in In of mercury just incase but should not be correct
((pid(8)-30.3)*0.1450
Boost using Pid for Manifold on PSI, - 14.7 psi (atmospheric pressure)
(pid(9)-14.7)
Boost using Pid for Manifol in PSI - Baro in KPA (again should be way wrong but I am trying combos to try and find if a Pid is miss labled)
((pid(9))-(pid(24)))*0.1450
But now onto a new car and Module.I have a 2016 Z06 and its not reading it correctly. I have tried everything I can think of. Waiting on a update from them. They did get me a update to see Fan speed that they advertise but did not work, I will try that on this one too soon. But right now working boost. and none of my test have worked
Boost using calculated boost
Pid(30001)
Boost using static Baro reading in Kpa
((pid(8)-102.61)*0.1450
Boost using the Cars pids to calculate (manifold in Kpa - Baro pid in Kpa)
((pid(8))-(pid(24)))*0.1450
Boost using Pid for Manifold - the Baro in In of mercury just incase but should not be correct
((pid(8)-30.3)*0.1450
Boost using Pid for Manifold on PSI, - 14.7 psi (atmospheric pressure)
(pid(9)-14.7)
Boost using Pid for Manifol in PSI - Baro in KPA (again should be way wrong but I am trying combos to try and find if a Pid is miss labled)
((pid(9))-(pid(24)))*0.1450