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gauges flickered... wont start, window doesn't go up or down when opening the door... car sat for a while but was on tender.. anyone know if this is a battery issue or programing issue?
took it to dealer last week.. drove it all weekend and had an issue again today.. turns out the negative terminal was loose. tightened it and all is good. Question is how did that happen.. since it just went to the dealer.. u make the call. Thanks for all your comments..
There is a slight chance that the tender is bad or plugged into the wrong socket. After he gets it home give the battery a good charge on a charger and not a tender. If problem persists then get a new battery.
drove it all weekend and had an issue again today.. turns out the negative terminal was loose. tightened it and all is good. Question is how did that happen....
Well, my battery's negative terminal was "loose" after a trek up the infamous Pike's Peak road course up the mountain....a few years back in a C6....before the top section of the championship track was paved....felt like a log-road...awful....loosened my teeth too.
took it to dealer last week.. drove it all weekend and had an issue again today.. turns out the negative terminal was loose. tightened it and all is good. Question is how did that happen.. since it just went to the dealer.. u make the call. Thanks for all your comments..
A similar thing happened to me in my 2010 GS. Just tightened up the connection and all of the issues went away.
Easy test if you have a volt meter. But, if you don't, I would suspect battery.
Originally Posted by Rocker 56
took it to dealer last week.. drove it all weekend and had an issue again today.. turns out the negative terminal was loose. tightened it and all is good. Question is how did that happen.. since it just went to the dealer.. u make the call. Thanks for all your comments..
This is one place where a Volt meter may not provide the answer. It draws very little amperage and a high resistance path, due to loose ground connection, may still show high voltage until a high current load, like starting, is applied.
Have that issue with 12 volt readings on my outdoor inground lights that show 12 volts at the socket but won't light a bulb! Usually a high resistance, corroded light fixture wire to main line mechanical connection. After 20 years, believe I have soldered most of those by now!
Bit funny with the C7 as the cable to battery connections are a better than old designs. But they must be tight to start!