Waxing recommendations
11-20-2016, 08:42 AM
#41
Le Mans Master
My suggestion and method in post#28 above is an ideal method, process, and product for the car owners who wants to achieve a great finish with an inexpensive cost for material and a small amount of time. And, for the person who does not normally want to detail out their vehicles for one reason or another.
As for myself, I am a detailing junkie. I am always open to new technologies and products and the old way of detailing with waxes and clay bars are truly a method of the past. I keep all of my premium sports cars in top shape "car show" appearance.
My thought is, these premiums vehicles I own are works of art and design and the C7 when very clean in appearance is simply a stunning sports car.
All of my vehicles have been nano ceramic coated as a DIY project. I have used many different brands of ceramic coatings and my favorite is the Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating V2. Blackfire Crystal, a paint sealant is also high on my list (thanks to "Glen e" for the Blackfire recommendation). While it takes some time to apply a ceramic coating the effort and time are well worth it for the time the product will last.
The Pinnacle is a paint coating while the Blackfire is paint sealant and there is a difference in the durability of the products. A ceramic coating will last much longer in durability than a paint sealant. 2 years (ceramic) vs 6 to 9 months (sealant).
In order for me to complete the detailing project properly with proper surface prep, it takes about 6 hours per vehicle (1 man job) just doing the painted surface. I also ceramic coat the wheels and all glass on the vehicles.
While it takes time initially, future washing and cleaning is a breeze. I can now wash and dry my sports cars in about 30-35 minutes and the end result is stunning in both shine and reflective qualities.
The detail work comes down to how much the car owner is willing to spend and how much time they are willing to dedicate to keeping the vehicle looking in better than showroom condition. I enjoy the time I spend and get a lot of satisfaction at the end result.
I am sure other car owners will provide their input.
Bottom line is, with new technology in products, you do not have to be a rocket scientist to obtain superior results in a DIY detailing project. It is a learning experience and the more you do, the more you learn about the products and the easier it gets.
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As for myself, I am a detailing junkie. I am always open to new technologies and products and the old way of detailing with waxes and clay bars are truly a method of the past. I keep all of my premium sports cars in top shape "car show" appearance.
My thought is, these premiums vehicles I own are works of art and design and the C7 when very clean in appearance is simply a stunning sports car.
All of my vehicles have been nano ceramic coated as a DIY project. I have used many different brands of ceramic coatings and my favorite is the Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating V2. Blackfire Crystal, a paint sealant is also high on my list (thanks to "Glen e" for the Blackfire recommendation). While it takes some time to apply a ceramic coating the effort and time are well worth it for the time the product will last.
The Pinnacle is a paint coating while the Blackfire is paint sealant and there is a difference in the durability of the products. A ceramic coating will last much longer in durability than a paint sealant. 2 years (ceramic) vs 6 to 9 months (sealant).
In order for me to complete the detailing project properly with proper surface prep, it takes about 6 hours per vehicle (1 man job) just doing the painted surface. I also ceramic coat the wheels and all glass on the vehicles.
While it takes time initially, future washing and cleaning is a breeze. I can now wash and dry my sports cars in about 30-35 minutes and the end result is stunning in both shine and reflective qualities.
The detail work comes down to how much the car owner is willing to spend and how much time they are willing to dedicate to keeping the vehicle looking in better than showroom condition. I enjoy the time I spend and get a lot of satisfaction at the end result.
I am sure other car owners will provide their input.
Bottom line is, with new technology in products, you do not have to be a rocket scientist to obtain superior results in a DIY detailing project. It is a learning experience and the more you do, the more you learn about the products and the easier it gets.
..
11-20-2016, 09:00 AM
#42
I've read that some people put carnauba wax on top of a sealant. Anyone here do that?
11-20-2016, 09:45 AM
#43
Select one or the other, a paint sealant or ceramic coating. No need to do both. It would be a waste of time and money, and is NOT recommended.
You could do 2 coats to make sure every square inch of the vehicle is covered, but not necessary.
The best application of the paint sealant or paint coating is to work in small areas at a time (2' x 2" area). Take your time and make sure that you have covered all areas. Use sideways and up and down motions/movements to apply with a sponge applicator (see image below). Don't use a circular motion when applying.
http://www.autogeek.net/lake-country...pplicator.html
In your case, since I assume you are new to the process, I would suggest a low cost, or material approach and try applying a paint sealant which has a cost of about $30.00 vs the ceramic coating products which have a cost of about $80.00 to $120 per bottle dependent upon the brand you buy. One small 8 oz. paint coating or 4 oz. ceramic coating bottle of these products will do many cars or applications. You apply the paint coating or ceramic coating very thin.
After you have learned the process and application techniques, you can then decide to move up to a ceramic coating product.
Hope this helps.
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Last edited by nmvettec7; 11-20-2016 at 09:48 AM.
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Gonzo (11-22-2016)
11-20-2016, 09:58 AM
#44
Applying a wax coating over a sealant or ceramic coating can be done, but I would not personally recommend it. Just my suggestion, others here on the CF may disagree.
These polymer paint sealants and ceramic paint coating are designed to be applied straight from the bottle without adding any other detailing products over the surface. Thus no need to wax.
I am detailing a new Chrysler Pacifica van today for a neighbor and will simply wash, use the new Eagle One Surface Prep wash mitt and Nanoskin polymer sponge (for small areas) to remove any surface contaminants before applying the paint sealer, rinse, dry, and apply the Blackfire Crystal Seal product for the neighbor.
He wants low cost. His cost will be about $30.00 and he will have product remaining and a beautiful shine and reflective qualities on his brand new 2017 Ruby Red Metallic paint. I suspect the whole process with 2 people working together is about 2 1/2 hours of time and conversation.
I have the extra materials like applicators and electric DA buffer to apply the polish and seal product.
Should be fun.
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11-20-2016, 11:10 AM
#45
Drifting
Hey nmvette
regarding the clay mitt. I bought two. One fine and one medium. If I don't have the specific lube for the mitts, what's a good second choice. I'll be hitting an autoparts store later.
regarding the clay mitt. I bought two. One fine and one medium. If I don't have the specific lube for the mitts, what's a good second choice. I'll be hitting an autoparts store later.
11-20-2016, 11:29 AM
#46
No expensive lube needed. Use the surface prep mitts when washing the C7 with a detergent like Dawn or a Car wash soap. Don't waste any money on a special lube. Many will use a bottle of detail spray, but the detail spray dries quickly. Detail spray cost of about $12.00...I am sure you have some kind of dish washing soap in the house under the sink. The soap creates an ultra slick lube for the gloves.
After using the surface prep mitts, you will need to wash and rinse the C7 again anyway to remove any residue.
You will be amazed at the ultra slick surface and smoothness of the paint after using the polymer mitts. They are great and totally reusable. Use the "Fine Grade" mitt.
Did you do the baggies test to feel the paint surface? If so, was it like sandpaper?
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Last edited by nmvettec7; 11-20-2016 at 11:31 AM.
11-20-2016, 12:56 PM
#47
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As usual, NMc7 is giving you excellent advice here. The big thing is not to overthink it. You could put on layers of this, and layers of that and really you don't end up with anything that's better looking than a simple polish and a sealant. The reason is the top coat waxes won't stick long-term on anything if the sealant (or coating) is on first. And Carauba washes off anyway, especially above 80°. Wax is dead, it's great for car shows because you get a little bit more depth of reflection, but for the daily driver, it went out in the mid 2000's when polymers came along such as Rejex. Now the market has moved again , in that some polymer sealants don't need to be buffed off, as I said above. That means you can put two coats on in the time that it would take you to put on a conventional wax on and buff off product.The only thing I would add to nm's stuff is on top of the polish and seal, is a coat of wipe on crystal Seal for added reflection and durability. It's the basis of my documents that I've published here:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/acxkaf44c...VlC5djtQa?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/acxkaf44c...VlC5djtQa?dl=0
Last edited by Glen e; 11-20-2016 at 01:19 PM.
11-20-2016, 01:01 PM
#48
Glen did you dictate this response on a smart phone? You've always been crystal clear with your great advice, but this one totally lost me.
Never mind, you fixed it, and now it sounds like the Glen I know.
Never mind, you fixed it, and now it sounds like the Glen I know.
Last edited by Foosh; 11-20-2016 at 01:01 PM.
11-20-2016, 10:08 PM
#52
11-21-2016, 07:45 AM
#53
Drifting
LOL. UGH, I think I "over-bought" stuff for the car. Probably didn't need the butter wet wax.
I I was pulling my hair out trying to sort out what I wanted and needed. I figured better to have it and not need it.
Can I use one of the listed items on here that I have to polish the exhaust? I bought the cone drill attachment.
I I was pulling my hair out trying to sort out what I wanted and needed. I figured better to have it and not need it.
Can I use one of the listed items on here that I have to polish the exhaust? I bought the cone drill attachment.
11-21-2016, 09:29 AM
#55
LOL. UGH, I think I "over-bought" stuff for the car. Probably didn't need the butter wet wax.
I I was pulling my hair out trying to sort out what I wanted and needed. I figured better to have it and not need it.
Can I use one of the listed items on here that I have to polish the exhaust? I bought the cone drill attachment.
I I was pulling my hair out trying to sort out what I wanted and needed. I figured better to have it and not need it.
Can I use one of the listed items on here that I have to polish the exhaust? I bought the cone drill attachment.
Buy Simichrome for the exhaust.....$9.99 at Amazon with free shipping. The small tube will last a few years. Apply with finger around flared tips of the exhaust and use your new cone to polish. Buff any excess with a soft cloth. Simply and low priced. Great stuff.
https://www.amazon.com/Simichrome-39...ish&th=1&psc=1
11-21-2016, 01:24 PM
#56
LOL. UGH, I think I "over-bought" stuff for the car. Probably didn't need the butter wet wax.
I was pulling my hair out trying to sort out what I wanted and needed. I figured better to have it and not need it.
Can I use one of the listed items on here that I have to polish the exhaust? I bought the cone drill attachment.
I was pulling my hair out trying to sort out what I wanted and needed. I figured better to have it and not need it.
Can I use one of the listed items on here that I have to polish the exhaust? I bought the cone drill attachment.
I avoid the petrochemical products because it makes no sense to be spraying oil on your car's finish. The big name products are the worst using petroleum and overcharging for them to boot. The harmful vapors the petros throw off are very bad to breathe as well, in my experience.
11-21-2016, 02:02 PM
#57
As far as the painted finishes on your C7 goes, I'm not sure all those sealants/ceramic sealants, waxes, etc. are all that effective, or needed on your finish. A decent spray and polish product is all you may need. I don't believe that one finish or another, necessarily adds discernable depth to the shine, either.
I avoid the petrochemical products because it makes no sense to be spraying oil on your car's finish. The big name products are the worst using petroleum and overcharging for them to boot. The harmful vapors the petros throw off are very bad to breathe as well, in my experience.
I avoid the petrochemical products because it makes no sense to be spraying oil on your car's finish. The big name products are the worst using petroleum and overcharging for them to boot. The harmful vapors the petros throw off are very bad to breathe as well, in my experience.
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11-21-2016, 02:15 PM
#58
Racer
I have used Chadwick's Triple Play on my last 3 corvettes. He is a forum sponsor here. You can watch the how-to videos on his web site https://chadwickstripleplay.com/ I used it on my C7 Z06 the day it was delivered to me. Great stuff. No petroleum products in it.
Last edited by Cowboy26a; 11-21-2016 at 02:18 PM.
11-21-2016, 03:04 PM
#59
If there were black and white results to readily and easily quantify such advice, it would be a slam dunk. But it's not.
A simple non-petroleum based spray and shine product, is all one needs to achieve a nice finish and shine.
I've noticed over the years that no one will wade in to prove any of their claims of product finish superiority. Not that it is even possible to demonstrate the superior difference(s) here. What I have noticed is that the so called experts, won't give other products and methods a try, or a chance to perform for them. Which is understandable, when it's not to their financial advantage.
11-21-2016, 03:33 PM
#60
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Hogwash… You can go over to any of the detailing sites Autopia or auto geek and watch members do side-by-side spray wash versus sealants versus coatings and see which ones last longer and gloss better. Sealants and coatings are a whole new ballgame, they last longer than any type of spray and wash or spray detail type product. That's just a fact.