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DSC Sport Magnetic Shock controller observations

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Old 06-09-2017, 10:46 AM
  #681  
Foosh
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Good point. I hadn't picked up the different tires being used, and given that your out-of-box tune is based on OEM PSS ZPs.
Old 06-09-2017, 11:04 AM
  #682  
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Originally Posted by DSC Sport
If the spring rate of the tires is that much different you may find yourself needing to make an adjustment. I would use the track mode to do this. In track mode use PTM tab in race set the front to 65 and leave the rear at 50 this will give you more front damper globally it sounds like that will be big. Try using the ptm setting to try a few variations then you can select while on track even try 70 front 60 rear. That may be the ticket. I built the PTM table to make tuning in sport 1,2 and race a quick way to find the chassis. Also if the car like more front damper then you can add more front spring!!!
Use tire pressure every psi is huge what is your target hot you have not said what is your rear caster?
I have been running 36 psi hot all around. This gave me good balance prior to the controller. I have not yet checked the caster because I was trying to get a true before/after comparison.

I'll get the true track alignment before my next track day.

I will set leave sport 1 alone at 50/50 (as that is the. Mode I use normally), set dry to 60/50, sport 2 to 70/60 and maybe race at 65/65 just to try it.

yes. Hankook RS3s. Front is the same size as stock, rear is 285/35 vs the stock 285/30.

Mike, is Wi-Fi available , could you pm me details if so?

Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 06-09-2017 at 11:08 AM.
Old 06-13-2017, 05:09 PM
  #683  
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Here are my observations on this shock controller. My use is strictly street, and it's in Florida which has flat, straight roads, in generally good condition. Even with that, there are enough bumps in the road that I drive in Tour. I was always disappointed with how the car handled those bumps, particularly the initial impact, which seemed harsh.

I got the DSC unit with the stock Tour setting installed, instead of the Plush Tour that some have used. The unit does what I expected. My impression is that the unit doesn't make the shock softer, but instead more compliant - the car seems to absorb the bumps instead of skittering over the bumps.

The effect is subtle, noticeable but subtle. The ride isn't transformed into a 60's Cadillac - thankfully - but it does make a noticeable improvement.

I would suspect that unit will show a more noticeable improvement on the track, because of the improvement in compliance - it should help put the power down. In areas with really bad roads, the unit should eliminate some of the harshness.

I would therefore give the unit a qualified thumbs up. It certainly makes a difference on the street, but I would liken it to adding 40 HP to a 450 HP car - not that big a difference but you would certainly miss it when its gone.

These observations only apply to an area with pretty good roads. I would guess that anyone using this will immediately notice a difference, but it's not a transformational change like I found the MGW shifter or the Vitesse throttle control to be.

As an aside, everybody thinks their state has the worst drivers. Everybody is wrong. Florida has the worst drivers by a long shot. Despite flat, smooth, straight roads with relatively little traffic, people manage nearly every day to hit trees, buildings, people, and other cars, often fatally, and regularly shutting the entire freeway or roadway down. I've driven all over the country and I've never seen anything like this. I suspect that a good part of the problem is that the roads are so easy that people never learn how to control their cars.
Old 06-13-2017, 10:45 PM
  #684  
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I wonder if the flat grid-like nature of Florida roads don't allow you to fully enjoy what the DSC does to the car's suspension.

Personally if I had to decide between my MGW and my rear bumper, or the DSC....I'll be needing zipties for my license plate.

Best,
Gene
Old 06-14-2017, 07:38 AM
  #685  
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Originally Posted by stephen1254
As an aside, everybody thinks their state has the worst drivers. Everybody is wrong. Florida has the worst drivers by a long shot. Despite flat, smooth, straight roads with relatively little traffic, people manage nearly every day to hit trees, buildings, people, and other cars, often fatally, and regularly shutting the entire freeway or roadway down. I've driven all over the country and I've never seen anything like this. I suspect that a good part of the problem is that the roads are so easy that people never learn how to control their cars.
How true! I think that is because Florida has all the tourists and snow-birds from all over. They are all on vacation and drive 20 mph below the speed limit, make left hand turns from the right hand lanes and don't look when they pull out. The rest are so ancient that they should not be driving at all. Many of the rest are driving on a suspended license, or driving without insurance.

And then there are fine "tank trap" roads, where the local politicans rather spend $ building stadiums for the uber-rich and build great access roads to them but stop at the connecting highways. And so we get the most expensive toll roads in the country but no one can afford to use them.

And let's not forget the red light cameras on every stop light that is 10 minutes long to encourge you to run them and generate revenue for them and use their expensive toll roads where the cousin of the commissioner gets rich developing new neighborhoods to maximize urban sprawl and buy the land cheap because they know where the new toll roads are going.

[/RANT]

Last edited by Flame Red; 06-14-2017 at 07:46 AM.
Old 06-14-2017, 08:48 AM
  #686  
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Originally Posted by BrunoTheMellow
I have been running 36 psi hot all around. This gave me good balance prior to the controller. I have not yet checked the caster because I was trying to get a true before/after comparison.

I'll get the true track alignment before my next track day.

I will set leave sport 1 alone at 50/50 (as that is the. Mode I use normally), set dry to 60/50, sport 2 to 70/60 and maybe race at 65/65 just to try it.

yes. Hankook RS3s. Front is the same size as stock, rear is 285/35 vs the stock 285/30.

Mike, is Wi-Fi available , could you pm me details if so?
Wi-fi is active just use google chrome address is 10.10.10.1
make sure to have your wifi conn set you will see DSCsport log on no password you can set your passcode in setting
change your caster its too big the DSC setting are based on this and will be the best tune for max grip
Old 06-14-2017, 01:11 PM
  #687  
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Originally Posted by DSC Sport
Wi-fi is active just use google chrome address is 10.10.10.1
make sure to have your wifi conn set you will see DSCsport log on no password you can set your passcode in setting
change your caster its too big the DSC setting are based on this and will be the best tune for max grip
Thanks Mike. Now if only I could find another affordable track day prior to September that matches my work-every-darned-day schedule.

Last edited by BrunoTheMellow; 06-14-2017 at 01:15 PM.
Old 06-14-2017, 02:31 PM
  #688  
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Originally Posted by stephen1254
Here are my observations on this shock controller. My use is strictly street, and it's in Florida which has flat, straight roads, in generally good condition. Even with that, there are enough bumps in the road that I drive in Tour. I was always disappointed with how the car handled those bumps, particularly the initial impact, which seemed harsh.

I got the DSC unit with the stock Tour setting installed, instead of the Plush Tour that some have used. The unit does what I expected. My impression is that the unit doesn't make the shock softer, but instead more compliant - the car seems to absorb the bumps instead of skittering over the bumps.

The effect is subtle, noticeable but subtle. The ride isn't transformed into a 60's Cadillac - thankfully - but it does make a noticeable improvement.

I would suspect that unit will show a more noticeable improvement on the track, because of the improvement in compliance - it should help put the power down. In areas with really bad roads, the unit should eliminate some of the harshness.

I would therefore give the unit a qualified thumbs up. It certainly makes a difference on the street, but I would liken it to adding 40 HP to a 450 HP car - not that big a difference but you would certainly miss it when its gone.

These observations only apply to an area with pretty good roads. I would guess that anyone using this will immediately notice a difference, but it's not a transformational change like I found the MGW shifter or the Vitesse throttle control to be.

As an aside, everybody thinks their state has the worst drivers. Everybody is wrong. Florida has the worst drivers by a long shot. Despite flat, smooth, straight roads with relatively little traffic, people manage nearly every day to hit trees, buildings, people, and other cars, often fatally, and regularly shutting the entire freeway or roadway down. I've driven all over the country and I've never seen anything like this. I suspect that a good part of the problem is that the roads are so easy that people never learn how to control their cars.
That plus the average age of drivers there is likely higher. I remember eating at a restaurant in Sarasota and seeing this septaugenarian hit another car while parking in the parking lot. Just backed up and drove off. I don't think he even realized he hit it. Then five minutes later, another one almost drove through the front of the restaurant near the table next to us. I was reconsidering asking for a window seat after that.
Old 06-24-2017, 12:12 AM
  #689  
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Mike, this is odd, when I first put in my DSC controller, I remember seeing all the PTM settings at 50% except for rain that had 30% on the front. I did this with the USB. Today when I connected through Wifi, the PTM settings were all 0% except for normal TRACK that was at 50% . I tried clicking READ again and yep still 0%. I corrected them all, wrote to controller, read again and the numbers were still the updated values so thats good.

What do you figured happened?

Either A) somehow the controller zeroed out those settings when I first installed it (which all I did when I installed it was zero shock travel, nothing else) and I ran a track day with shocks excessively soft which may make sense on why the car felt like it handled worse.

or B) The website app is bugged and made the PTM settings 0%.

I am now quite a bit worried especially since I have a track day tomorrow, I guess i'll connect to it with my phone and verify and change if anything feels funny.
Old 06-24-2017, 06:12 AM
  #690  
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Originally Posted by BrunoTheMellow
Mike, this is odd, when I first put in my DSC controller, I remember seeing all the PTM settings at 50% except for rain that had 30% on the front. I did this with the USB. Today when I connected through Wifi, the PTM settings were all 0% except for normal TRACK that was at 50% . I tried clicking READ again and yep still 0%. I corrected them all, wrote to controller, read again and the numbers were still the updated values so thats good.

What do you figured happened?

Either A) somehow the controller zeroed out those settings when I first installed it (which all I did when I installed it was zero shock travel, nothing else) and I ran a track day with shocks excessively soft which may make sense on why the car felt like it handled worse.

or B) The website app is bugged and made the PTM settings 0%.

I am now quite a bit worried especially since I have a track day tomorrow, I guess i'll connect to it with my phone and verify and change if anything feels funny.
Not sure what you should do is update with Fi it's simple then refresh browser . Have you looked at other tables are they all there like velocity
Old 06-24-2017, 07:03 AM
  #691  
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Originally Posted by DSC Sport
Not sure what you should do is update with Fi it's simple then refresh browser . Have you looked at other tables are they all there like velocity
yes everything else was there.
Old 06-24-2017, 07:24 PM
  #692  
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Originally Posted by Dif
I saw the DSC post about changing the 1-5 and your posted results.
But when I changed mine from 1-5 it didn't do much, at least not enough that I saw a difference.

I've only tried PTM few times and I'd agree it feels stiffer.
But, it's still a softer ride all things considered, and to me it feels like the Original DSC Tour.

Why and how I changed what I did was just by comparing the 3 Original Tour, Sport, and Track G-comfort settings in the Tour Plush File.
And, the Shock Calibration setting ,.. Calibrated At: ma ( milliamps )

Sport and Track G-comfort settings are both the "same".
Tour settings were different.
Pictures show the Original G-Comfort settings.

Changes to Tour:
Default Rate: changed from 1 to 5
Sensitivity: changed from 25 to 15
G Rate Max: changed from 35 to 30

Changed 1 to 50 in Calibrated At:


Other than changing the 1 to a 5 in Tour, I ended up making Tour the the same as Sport and Track.
I figured these settings control when, and how, the shocks react to forces.
And by Comparison, the higher the number the slower the reaction time before the shocks tighten/control a bounce.

Now when viewing the Shock calibrations.
The grid blocks are progressively darker and closer to 0 when comparing Tour to Sport, and Sport to Track.
Track has the most dark blocks and they are closest to 0.
I figured more dark blocks = stiffer shocks.

The Calibrated At: ma ( milliamps ) are set to 1 in Tour, 100 in Sport, and 200 in Track.
More milliamps = more current to the shocks = Tighter/Faster reacting shocks keeping the body under control.
So in the Tour Shock Calibration I changed the "Calibrated At: ma" from 1 to 50
I think this has the largest impact, in combination with the new G-comfort settings in helping calm down the bouncing.

Bottom line is the ride is still Soft, because in the Tour Shock Calibration settings, there is noticeably Less Dark blocks in the grid compared to Sport and Track.
But now with G-comfort settings the same as Sport and Track, it takes more force to make it bounce, and when it does, it stops right away.

Hope this helps

FYI a friend of mine had the DSC Tour Plush file in his C7.
He didn't like how much it bounced and installed the Original DSC file.
We got together last week and installed the Tour Plush back in his Controller and put in the new settings.
He's Happy with it now and leaving it in.
Dif
I'm still unclear on what you did in the Shock Calibration table. The TourPlush file has 1 ma from 0% to 9.4% and then goes linear from there to 1000 ma @ 100%. Did you overwrite the PlushTour table with 50 ma from 0% to 12.5% and keep the rest the same or did you go linear with 50 ma @ 0% to 1000 ma @ 100%?
Thanks

Last edited by RKCRLR; 06-24-2017 at 09:43 PM.
Old 06-24-2017, 08:28 PM
  #693  
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Originally Posted by DSC Sport
I really should do a instructional video but the Gtable is not the place to start . I like to first view the shock cal table everything relates to this table . You can slope the front end of the shock cal say from zero to 20% then slope from 20%--100% then you can build for comfort but not compromise performance. Make sense? I picked up one of my laptop's I'll build a sample shock cal and post it
to build it zero all then place place a value at 0% say1 avalue at 20% say 5 and 100% say 1000
I appears you did something similar for the PlushTour file. I notice you "flatlined" the calibration values @ 1 ma from 0% to 9.4% and then sloped from there. What is the advantage of what you are recommending above over using the G Comfort parameters to tweak comfort? Would it be easier to tame "float" without giving up comfort?
Also, I noticed that the Sport and Track Calibration tables exceed 1000 ma. Is there a reason for this?
Thanks
Old 06-24-2017, 10:54 PM
  #694  
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Originally Posted by RKCRLR
Dif
I'm still unclear on what you did in the Shock Calibration table. The TourPlush file has 1 ma from 0% to 9.4% and then goes linear from there to 1000 ma @ 100%. Did you overwrite the PlushTour table with 50 ma from 0% to 12.5% and keep the rest the same, or did you go linear with 50 ma @ 0% to 1000 ma @ 100%?
Thanks
Rick, all I did in the Shock Calibration is change the 1 to a 50.

I don't know what this means:
Quote: "or did you go linear with 50 ma @ 0% to 1000 ma @ 100%? "

Hope this helps and any other questions fire away
Old 06-25-2017, 12:16 PM
  #695  
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Originally Posted by Dif
Rick, all I did in the Shock Calibration is change the 1 to a 50.

I don't know what this means:
Quote: "or did you go linear with 50 ma @ 0% to 1000 ma @ 100%? "

Hope this helps and any other questions fire away
Dif
Sorry, I'll try to clarify my question. Your view of the Shock Calibration is on the LF cell with a Calibrated At value of 50 ma. How many of the other cells did you change to 50 ma? The TourPlush file has 1 ma in all of the cells (LF to RR) thru 10%, then 35 ma @ 12.5%. Did you replace the values of all of these cells with 50 ma and leave the rest the same? Or did you Clear All of the cells, enter 50 ma @ 0%, 1000 ma @ 100%, and use the Fill Empty button to fill in the values in between?
Thanks for your help
Sterling
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Old 06-25-2017, 02:12 PM
  #696  
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Rick, Thanks for that, and it's not you, it's my bad.
I see what you're saying now
I did not change any other cells.
I put 50 at 0% for LF and updated it.
Then did the same for LR, RF, RR, and that is all.
I did not use the Fill Empty

Also, Thanks for bringing this to my attention
Will need to experiment more now that you helped me understand this better
Old 06-25-2017, 03:44 PM
  #697  
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I was wondering if it was something like that. I tried your G Comfort settings without the Calibration table change and they seem to have tamed the float. I still have a little side to side motion but nothing bad (and it may just be inherent in the road). I suspect the majority of the improvement you had is due to the change in G Comfort settings.
Thanks for your work.

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Old 06-25-2017, 06:46 PM
  #698  
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Originally Posted by RKCRLR
I was wondering if it was something like that. I tried your G Comfort settings without the Calibration table change and they seem to have tamed the float. I still have a little side to side motion but nothing bad (and it may just be inherent in the road). I suspect the majority of the improvement you had is due to the change in G Comfort settings.
Thanks for your work.
with the G comfort changes.
As for the Shock Calibration table..
I thought more about what you were asking and did more examining of the settings, and I had it all wrong.
Now I know what you meant asking if I made the other blocks Linear.
I just got back from a ride after making new changes to the Shock Calibration table and noticed another slight improvement.

Originally, only changing the 1st block @ 0% to 50, as I did, blocks 2, 3, and 4 were still at 1 ma, ( as you pointed out ) something I didn't realize
The 5th block is 35, 6th block is 69 ma.

Here are my new changes for each shock .. LF, LR, RF, RR
1st Block changed to 10 ma
2nd Block changed to 20 ma
3rd Block changed to 30 ma
4th Block changed to 40 ma
5th Block changed to 50 ma

Left all the other blocks the way they were.

It feels like the same nice Tour Plush ride
But, the new Shock settings did stabilize it a "bit" more on slightly less than smooth roads for side to side feel, and the occasional small bounce.

I think you'll like it
Old 06-25-2017, 09:08 PM
  #699  
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Thanks Dif, glad I could help. I put in your settings and gave it a quick test. Didn't notice a difference in the short trip but I plan on keeping them, seems like they could only be better.
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Old 06-25-2017, 09:47 PM
  #700  
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Originally Posted by DSC Sport
I really should do a instructional video but the Gtable is not the place to start . I like to first view the shock cal table everything relates to this table . You can slope the front end of the shock cal say from zero to 20% then slope from 20%--100% then you can build for comfort but not compromise performance. Make sense? I picked up one of my laptop's I'll build a sample shock cal and post it
to build it zero all then place place a value at 0% say1 avalue at 20% say 5 and 100% say 1000
Mike
I decided to explore the data logging feature. I used my Android phone (Galaxy S7) to connect via Wi-Fi and record a trip down a local road with a rough texture. The data recording locked up part way through the drive but I got some info (also, it wouldn't let me scroll past the LF Current Out). It also gave an error about not being able to complete the file download. But I was able to open the .pmed file on my Windows tablet once I connected it to the DSC controller (is there a way to review the saved .pmed file without connecting to the DSC controller?). The shock current out was initially pretty low (less than 100 mA) but then the front jumped up to around 200 - 300 mA (the rear was around 100 - 200 mA). It seems this jump corresponds to a change in TPS (Throttle Position Sensor?) or perhaps speed getting above 50 mph. It may have also been a coincidence from when the road texture changed. Is 200 -300 mA high for cruising down a road? I'm wondering since it is about 1/4 of the total range. I'm using the PlushTour file with a few mods (see the correspondence between Dif and me). Any comments/suggestions?
Thanks
Sterling


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