Kent1999

I've been looking replacing my standard black "shift" paddles on my Stingray with the "new" 2017 red or yellow colored "shift" paddles for my steering wheel. However, I haven't been able to quite justify the $150 cost of the replacement parts. So I thought I'd just try painting my existing paddles instead. I figured if I mess them up and have to buy new ones, nothing is lost.






As long as I was going to have the wheel apart, I also thought I would take the opportunity to paint the steering wheel trim (I didn't like the bright brushed aluminum).

I thought I would also try to dress up the flat bottom wheel trim by applying a little $5 stick-on matte Carbon Fiber film from eBay. If I really like the CF trim, I might spring for a more quality piece, but for now its just a proof of concept thing.


Here we go...


1. DISCONNECT THE CAR BATTERY & WAIT 10 MINS
Before you do anything, disconnect the negative terminal of the car battery and wait 10 minutes before touching the airbag. Before I disconnect the battery, I always roll down the driver's window so I can easily reach in and open the door via the manual lever after the battery is disconnected. I know, there is a release in the hatch too, but I'm more comfortable with just having the window down.

2. REMOVE THE AIRBAG FROM THE WHEEL
There are other detailed posts here on the forum on how to do this, so I won't replicate them here. Short story: Push in the two clips either side of the wheel to loosen the airbag module with a small allen wrench. Once loosened, disconnect the *3* connectors that hold the module to the wheel (2 airbag and 1 horn). Remove module from the steering wheel and place it gently in a safe, static-free location, away from your immediate work area and others. There is no need to remove the steering wheel itself from the car.

3. REMOVE STEERING WHEEL TRIM
Using a plastic trim tool, remove the silver trim from the steering wheel by slowly and gently prying it away from the steering wheel -- there are no mechanical fasteners. Just be patient and it will slowly come free. Don't pull it free with any force, as there is an electrical connector on the button pad on each side of the trim, and those connectors must be released before the trim can be completely removed from the car. The connecting wires are short, so be careful not to pull them during your efforts to free the trim.




This is also a good opportunity to paint the trim if you desire to do so (as you can see, I chose to paint my trim metallic black). The button pads on each side of the trim can be removed from the trim by releasing the 3 locking tabs on each switch module and pushing them out the back. A quick wipe down with alcohol and a couple light coats of your chosen paint should do it. I chose a metallic black to keep the same general theme as the Carbon Flash trim elsewhere on the car.

4. REMOVE THE PADDLES
The paddles can be removed by unplugging the small electrical connector from each, and then removing the single Torx screw from each (see illustration). The electrical connector is small, and can be easily disconnected by pressing up on the locking tab under each connector with a pick or tiny flat blade screwdriver while pulling *gently*.




The bottom trim of the flat bottom wheel can also be removed using gently prying with a trim stick. No fasteners here either.

5. PAINTING THE PADDLES
I painted the paddles using regular rattle can paint that is formulated for plastic (I used Rustoleum Ultra-Cover Paint&Primer in "Gloss Sun Yellow" from Home Depot).

Wipe down the paddles with alcohol, and then mask off the bottom part of the paddle. Make sure you mask off the entire bottom section, so overspray doesn't get into the switch or on the connectors. As you can see, I left a good margin between the painted portion and the bezel. I wanted to make sure that the paint wasn't on any interface of the paddle/bezel, to avoid interfering with the smooth action of the paddle.






Give the paddles and bezel at least a day to dry before reassembly.

6. REASSEMBLY
Re-assembly is just a reversal of the steps above.



RESULTS:
Still not sure about going with yellow paddles vs. red. But I can always re-paint them if I choose. Note that the markings on the paddles ("+" or "REV MATCH") are obscured by the paint, but I really don't miss them -- I already know what the paddles do.

dvilin

Nice job looks good, might have gone with red but as you know you can always change it if you want to.
Great writeup how long did this project take?

sTz

Nice write-up

ddlanes

Nice job, the carbon fiber ties in with your dash.

Kent1999

If you had the parts painted and ready to install (as I did -- I had spares from another wheel) -- the start to finish time to remove the old parts and install the new ones is pretty fast -- probably 30-45 minutes at most.

If you have to paint the existing parts and re-install them, obviously its a much longer process as you have to wait for the paint to dry for a day or so before you can re-assemble.

Flame Red

Great write up. I had been thinking of trying the same thing, but in red.

It is a shame I did not save the switches from the original steering wheel when I replaced it with a new D wheel. Funny how the painted ones from GM are as you said, $170'sh, but if I recall the entire brand new GM D wheel was about $300 or so. Some times the pricing of these parts just does not make sense to me.

Been trying to figure a way to put back the + and the - but have not figured one out yet. I guess if I were skilled with a paint brush, one could just paint them on and maybe clear-coat it to protect it. But I don't have the ability.

Got to think that someone on flea-bay would make up some vinyl stickers or some rubber gizmo that would slip on to cover them and have the markings and be cheap. Maybe a custom sign place can make them up?

Rooster OG

Nicely done!

Strake

Nice !!!

Did you take a piece of CF decal and cut it to size and apply that you found on eBay, or was it already cut to size?

pdpratt

Excellent pictures and details, thanks.

Kent1999

Just bought a bulk piece of CF vinyl (12"x60") for like $5 -- cut off a 6" piece for the trim, and have 54" left over... LOL

The flat bottom trim piece has some good curves in it, so my application isn't perfect -- if anyone starts looking at it real close, I'll chase them away! But as I said, it was really just a trial to see how I liked it there. Someday I'll get a real OEM CF piece or a hydro-dipped piece, if I come across a good deal.

Strake

think I can do the CF decal on the lower trim piece with it still on the wheel in the car? Or does it REALLY need to be removed first?

thanks,

RipcordZ51

Well done

phisch

Thanks for the write-up and pics! I've been seriously thinking about doing this mod, but the thought of taking the steering apart was stopping me. How long did it take you from start to finish? Maybe I'll give it a try.

Kent1999

The hardest part is popping the airbag out if you've never done it before, because you can't see the little airbag module spring bars that you need to push upon -- kind of have to do it by feel. After that, it's just being patient whilst carefully prying up the wheel trim a little at a time, but even that is literally two or three minutes work. The paddles are quick and easy to remove and just as easy to replace. Getting it all back together is MUCH easier -- a few seconds work as both the trim and the airbag just pop right back in without any drama at all.

Total "work" time is likely 20-30 minutes, depending on how long it takes you to dislodge the airbag module. If you have to paint the existing parts and re-install them, obviously its a much longer process as you have to wait for the paint to dry for a day or so before you can re-assemble, but 99% of that time is waiting for paint to dry.

HPT

Great write up! Thank you. My car will come with red paddles, except I want to hide them. Looking to swap out for black ones molded/filed down to the smallest shape possible while still retaining functionality. This will come in handy.

Does anyone know if you can remove one of the paddles entirely without any other effects?

ZorenZ51

Nice write up. Nice job on the aluminum trim!

phisch

Thanks for the info, I think I'm going to give this mod a try. I'll probably do the paddles in red to match the interior stitching in my Corvette.

Kent1999

Honestly, I don't know that I could have done it with it still in place. The curves in the piece make it necessary to pull and stretch the film into place and then tuck it underneath the edges. However, I am not very skilled at that kind of thing, so maybe its just me.

bbrown450

so ow will you know where the "Rev Match" is ????.....just kidding ...looks good. I have the Red Paddles now ...will try to get a spare set that I have in Blue

Strake

Thanks for the great idea of the vinyl wrap I did my lower steering wheel trim yesterday. Really happy with the results. Hardest part, was getting the finished piece BACK ON to the steering wheel. Took a few minutes to coax it into place, but turned out great.

As you said, with a 12" X 60" piece, ( for $5.99) you end up with plenty of left over...... I did both key fobs too. Took each of them apart and wrapped them too.

What I'm thinking about NEXT, it to try and wrap the silver painted steering wheel trim, that you painted. Since you are experienced in using the vinyl wrap, and familiar with the steering wheel trim ( painted silver piece)...... do you think the vinyl wrap will conform to all the curves???

I did use my wife's hair dryer to heat the vinyl to conform to the curves on the lower steering wheel trim, and realize I would need to use it again IF I try to attempt wrapping the silver trim steering wheel piece.

Pics from my fun project yesterday......