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Bought a shift **** from RPI Designs with simple instructions. Turn the shifter ring Counter clockwise, push down, unscrew ****, install new **** and screw, clockwise turn the ring and you're golden!!! Yeaaaa
So I pulled the shifter boot down thinking the ring was "unlocked" and now the shifter looks terrible. I've done my best to fix it and it does stay up, but you can't see the chrome ring anymore.
Did you separate the boot from the ring? If you did you might have to get the console lid off to turn the boot inside out to fix it if it bothers you. It's not that bad of a job. Here are some good instructions to get at the boot if you decide to go that route:
That happened to me too. The use cheap thin staples to connect the ring to the boot. You can fix it if you staple it back, but sucks since you have to take it all apart.
Bought a shift **** from RPI Designs with simple instructions. Turn the shifter ring Counter clockwise, push down, unscrew ****, install new **** and screw, clockwise turn the ring and you're golden!!! Yeaaaa
So I pulled the shifter boot down thinking the ring was "unlocked" and now the shifter looks terrible. I've done my best to fix it and it does stay up, but you can't see the chrome ring anymore.
My problem was removing the chrome ring, which glad you did not have. The last pic/text on page 6 covers what a poster said was his issue. It sounds like what you found and a solution with pic the poster provided. Perhaps a help.
I thought there was also a rubber o-ring that held the boot to the ring. You might want to see if that is still there.
I bought mine before the business was sold. It came with 3 "O" rings of various thicknesses. I only needed the small one. However my pins were so tight in the **** slots I need pliers to get it back on! It won't move.
^^^ Yea boot is separated from the ring completely.
I'll check out the instructions. Thank you so much for your help!!!
Mine did that, pulled the staples out. If you look you can see the ring has a groove around it. I took a thin cable tie in the groove to hold the boot to the ring. You have to remove boot and turn it inside out. It looks like that was the plan to start with but they cheaped out and used the staples.
Last edited by dprestidge; Feb 21, 2017 at 06:32 PM.
Reason: Spelling
Tried to change shift ****. Ring was so tight would not budge. I decided not to go any further and left it alone. will stay with OEM rather than take a chance on damage. Funny when you look at the video that is posted by that company that makes short shifters they take the ring off so easy. Guess it depends on each vehicle.
I found out A long time ago that if your not A certified mechanic that it can cost you more in the long run.I took mine to A shop.1+1/2 hours A new shifter.Also eliminated that set up.
Went with core Hurst.I believe they do stuff now days on purpose.They don't want the owner
To work on his car.
Tried to change shift ****. Ring was so tight would not budge. I decided not to go any further and left it alone. will stay with OEM rather than take a chance on damage. Funny when you look at the video that is posted by that company that makes short shifters they take the ring off so easy. Guess it depends on each vehicle.
Had the same problem. Read a forum post and a fellow stated he was ready to use CS explosive! Another said, "When you remove it you'll see how it attaches!" "Big Help" useless statement-a Catch 22!
That is why I make PDF's of installing Mods-have ~25! For DIY'ers like me who don't do this every day and only do it once!
In my case after spending 10+ minutes trying to "Turn CCW Pull Up and Push Down" per the instructions I looked at a Youtube video. That made it look super easy-but noted it had to turn 90 degrees not the ~10 degrees I was able to get! This is a picture PDF of my install: http://netwelding.com/Shift_Knob.pdf
Bottom Line: There is a grooved path that two pins must follow to turn. My pins must be a bit oversized as it did not turn easily as in the Video. I used a rag wrapped around the ring so as not to mark it and a pair of channel locks and had to force the turn. Had to use the the same approach to get it back on-should had used sandpaper on the pins when exposed!
The engineer that designed that system sure made it complex and the plastic parts are not sufficiently precise for that complex puzzle lock path! He should have been the one to design the ignition switch that cost GM millions for those they had to replace!
Tried to change shift ****. Ring was so tight would not budge. I decided not to go any further and left it alone. will stay with OEM rather than take a chance on damage. Funny when you look at the video that is posted by that company that makes short shifters they take the ring off so easy. Guess it depends on each vehicle.
I do not do mods for that very reason, why take the chance of screwing up the car and spending many dollars to fix. My only mod, if you want to call it that, was replacing the tire valve stem caps.
I do not do mods for that very reason, why take the chance of screwing up the car and spending many dollars to fix. My only mod, if you want to call it that, was replacing the tire valve stem caps.
For some of us the challenge is fun! Not for everybody-understand.
Been a gearhead since I was 12! Built a "hot rod" when I was 16 and a street rod when I retired-that was a challenge with a number of unexpected complications that needed to be solved. No service manual!
That is why I make the picture PDF's. Even the simplest mod (like when changing brake pads on my early 2014) removing with the high temp two sided tape was not easy (fortunately not used after the mid 2014.) A forum poster used a saw blade-that would have taken hours! I even asked a friend with an 8 bay shop if he had encountered-he had not. Called 3M who makes the tape, commonly used in Europe-no help. Devised a way and put in a picture PDF.
Agreed, not for everyone but I outline the mistakes I make and hopefully it helps those that want to try! A recent one was when changing the battery! Several posts mentioned the dealer ripped the carpet getting to the battery. Easy to do if you don't pull out the plastic wheel cover first-that is NOT in the Owners Manual or Service Manual instructions.
Then even when equipped with the 4 volume Service Manuals there was a "trick" to getting the large power board off of the positive terminal. The manual simply said "remove clips." No mention of how many or where they where located! Wasn't easy to find. Probed around and finally put a screw driver in a slot and found them! Lifting the battery out of the recess is also not easy but I anticipated that and bought a simple tool.
Funny, when I told the Service Manager at Sears about the few tricks when I brought back the old battery he said: "On many new cars where the battery is not easy to get at we tell the customer they have to go to the dealer!" Would not want to be the first even the dealer mechanic tackled!
In that case got an AGM battery on sale at less than half the cost of a dealer installing a lower capacity OEM Delco. And no ripped carpet!
For some of us the challenge is fun! Not for everybody-understand.
Been a gearhead since I was 12! Built a "hot rod" when I was 16 and a street rod when I retired-that was a challenge with a number of unexpected complications that needed to be solved. No service manual!
That is why I make the picture PDF's. Even the simplest mod (like when changing brake pads on my early 2014) removing with the high temp two sided tape was not easy (fortunately not used after the mid 2014.) A forum poster used a saw blade-that would have taken hours! I even asked a friend with an 8 bay shop if he had encountered-he had not. Called 3M who makes the tape, commonly used in Europe-no help. Devised a way and put in a picture PDF.
Agreed, not for everyone but I outline the mistakes I make and hopefully it helps those that want to try! A recent one was when changing the battery! Several posts mentioned the dealer ripped the carpet getting to the battery. Easy to do if you don't pull out the plastic wheel cover first-that is NOT in the Owners Manual or Service Manual instructions.
Then even when equipped with the 4 volume Service Manuals there was a "trick" to getting the large power board off of the positive terminal. The manual simply said "remove clips." No mention of how many or where they where located! Wasn't easy to find. Probed around and finally put a screw driver in a slot and found them! Lifting the battery out of the recess is also not easy but I anticipated that and bought a simple tool.
Funny, when I told the Service Manager at Sears about the few tricks when I brought back the old battery he said: "On many new cars where the battery is not easy to get at we tell the customer they have to go to the dealer!" Would not want to be the first even the dealer mechanic tackled!
In that case got an AGM battery on sale at less than half the cost of a dealer installing a lower capacity OEM Delco. And no ripped carpet!
Do you have a link to any photos (or PDF) on the brake shoes and battery replacement mentioned above?
Do you have a link to any photos (or PDF) on the brake shoes and battery replacement mentioned above?
Yep. This is for the brakes. Unless you have an early 2014- I believe half way into the 2014 build and later C7's, you don't have the high temp double sided tape on the front pads. Then the fronts are like my rear pads, very easy, pull out, use a Scotch Brite pad to clean off some of the old pad material on the rotors ( 5 minutes per rotor- they don't need to look super clean, you'll see the pad get discolored) and slip in the new. http://netwelding.com/Ceramic_Pads.pdf
This is the battery replacement. More info then you need as I added the first 7 pages of pics and text for the battery replacement to an old doc about battery life etc.
At the end are links to 35 other PDF's I have made over the 3 1/2 years I've had my C7! Had some for my C6 but now being semi-retired I have the time to take pics and enjoy making them if it can help some folks not have issues I found!
Shift **** install gone wrong....
I bought mine before the business was sold. It came with 3 "O" rings of various thicknesses. I only needed the small one. However my pins were so tight in the **** slots I need pliers to get it back on! It won't move.
