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Dead battery & hatch won't manually open

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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 12:46 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by oldC5
I thought only the trunk plug works on charging the car that's where I keep my Cteck plugged in not the front lighter maybe I am wrong.
You are correct. In the C7 only the power outlet in the rear is constantly energized/useful for charging. The ports near the cup holder and in the console are only active with the ignition in the on or accessory positions (or during the time that RAP is active after shutoff but it times out in 10 minutes and is cancelled immediately when the driver's door is opened).
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 01:11 PM
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I just tried my emergency key release...mine didn't work till I turned the key much harder against the end-of-rotation stop.
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 01:21 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by rmorin1249
I had a feeling you had a Range unit. I just installed mine and I am paranoid that I will forget to turn it off as well. However I almost always put my C7 on my CTEK. Having gone through one dead battery episode I don't want to do it again. Sure hope you have a successful outcome.
As long as you put the CTEK on it, you will be fine, that is what I usually do... this time I forgot.


Originally Posted by Italianfox
In my C6 when I first got it and stored it the first winter the battery was completely dead, Used key to unlock the hatch and emergency cables to unlock the door. Put a battery charger on it and all good. After that I always used a battery tender which I hard wired into the battery.It had the electric pull down.
Yeah, I usually use one as well, just got in a hurry after driving it, forgot to put it back on, and then left for the week. Only have myself to blame.


Originally Posted by oldC5
I thought only the trunk plug works on charging the car that's where I keep my Cteck plugged in not the front lighter maybe I am wrong.
I think that is correct, I use the back outlet.


Originally Posted by Chevette!?!?
If the hatch opens an eighth of an inch......Fashion a coat hanger to grab the release cable through the gap,........The release cable should be on the drivers side about mid-trunk in front of the wheel house. Good luck!
It isn't opened enough to put anything through there without ripping up the rubber seal Plus, I would probably scratch the heck out of the interior panels trying to get a hold of that latch. I still have two things to try today, hopefully one of them works.


Originally Posted by ersatz928
I just tried my emergency key release...mine didn't work till I turned the key much harder against the end-of-rotation stop.
Yes, you have to really crank that thing over to get it to release. I have used it 3 times now, no issues, but after I closed it manually all the way down, I think the electric clasp gets stuck.


Off to buy a new battery, and see if applying power at the starter gets me in.
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 02:07 PM
  #24  
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Power hatch, because sissies were complaining how hard it was to close the hatch.
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 02:14 PM
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Originally Posted by themonk
Power hatch, because sissies were complaining how hard it was to close the hatch.
It's actually really nice, well... up until about 24 hours ago
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 02:17 PM
  #26  
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Just a thought here. Can Onstar unlock the car if it has a dead battery? Is so, and if you don't have OnStar, it may be worth the 35 bucks monthly charge to get into the car. You can always cancel it when the month is out.

If you have OnSatr, and they can get you in, you're golden. Good luck.

Last edited by Rebel Yell; Mar 5, 2017 at 02:18 PM.
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 02:24 PM
  #27  
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I can't help you out at all but I just wanted to wish you luck! It is frustrating for sure but you'll get it fixed up.
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 02:59 PM
  #28  
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UPDATE: Problem Resolved! I was able to apply power to the starter cable (at the starter) through the use of jumper cables from another vehicle, and a small cable I fabricated that could easily clamp on to the starter wire bolt, and after about 15 seconds the car came alive, and I was able to pop the hatch.

The battery was down to 1.9 volts, so it is likely that I have done this battery in, and will go get a replacement now. Even throwing a fast charger on it to shock it back to life seems like it isn't responding well, I am guessing it has a dead cell or two.

Takeaways for me:
1) Don't forget to either remove/turn-off the Range AFM module or put the car on a charger before leaving for extended time (DUH!).

2) If you ever need to use the key to pop the hatch on a 2016 or newer Corvette, don't push it all the way back closed, until you have resolved the power issue.

3) Quickjacks are AWESOME! The way my car was parked in the garage, would have made it really difficult to jack up enough to get to the starter with normal floor jacks. Those things made light work of it.


Originally Posted by Rebel Yell
Just a thought here. Can Onstar unlock the car if it has a dead battery? Is so, and if you don't have OnStar, it may be worth the 35 bucks monthly charge to get into the car. You can always cancel it when the month is out.

If you have OnSatr, and they can get you in, you're golden. Good luck.
On Star would require power, but thanks for the input!


Originally Posted by TyBoo
I can't help you out at all but I just wanted to wish you luck! It is frustrating for sure but you'll get it fixed up.
Haha, thanks! Got 'er done!
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 04:21 PM
  #29  
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Congrats. Your battery may be OK but if it's more than 2 years old I would replace it as well. Mine went completely dead when my car was only about 8 months old. Dealer checked and charged it and it has been OK ever since. Never did figure out why as I did not have a Range at the time.
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 04:44 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by rmorin1249
Congrats. Your battery may be OK but if it's more than 2 years old I would replace it as well. Mine went completely dead when my car was only about 8 months old. Dealer checked and charged it and it has been OK ever since. Never did figure out why as I did not have a Range at the time.
I put a stronger charger on the job, and it seems to be taking a charge now. When the charger says it is done, I will check voltage, and keep aware, in case it seems like it isn't holding a charge. It is only a year old, so hopefully it has some time left.
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Old Mar 5, 2017 | 05:24 PM
  #31  
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Once a battery has discharged that far (your 1.9 volt reading) it has suffered irreparable damage and even if it temporarily takes a charge it will be very unreliable and will fail soon without warning. Even "deep cycle" batteries aren't designed to safely withstand a discharge to that level. A failing battery can also force your alternator to work at a much higher duty cycle than normal. I would go ahead and replace it now rather than have it hanging over your head waiting to fail at the most inconvenient moment.

Also be careful while trying to charge this deeply discharged battery as a sustained high charging rate is perfect for creating hydrogen gas in much higher quantity than happens in a normal charging cycle. Use a setting on your charger which does not allow a lengthy charge at high current or things may get a little too exciting.
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 11:05 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by NSC5
Also be careful while trying to charge this deeply discharged battery as a sustained high charging rate is perfect for creating hydrogen gas in much higher quantity than happens in a normal charging cycle. Use a setting on your charger which does not allow a lengthy charge at high current or things may get a little too exciting.
I agree... charging or jumping a battery that is completely dead can cause it to explode... You just need to accept that the battery is toast and get a new one.

Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Mar 6, 2017 at 11:06 AM.
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 11:45 AM
  #33  
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I agree that the hatch is hard to get to shut on my 14. I open the door a bit to reduce pressure. Shuts fine then.
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 11:49 AM
  #34  
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Glad you got it sorted out.
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 02:42 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by defaria
I just returned from a 2 week vacation down under. Went in the garage and my C7 fired right up. I don't understand this battery tender stuff (I live in San Diego and my C7 is my DD) or at least I would think it was only necessary if you're away for months at a time.


Sounds like the OP has a mod that draws power 24/7. Oops.
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 04:13 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0
I agree... charging or jumping a battery that is completely dead can cause it to explode... You just need to accept that the battery is toast and get a new one.
My battery was completely discharged. Dealer tested it and said it was fine. They charged it overnight and it has been fine now for almost a year. I do put it on a CTEK if the car is parked for more than a couple days. I will replace it at 36 months.
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 04:33 PM
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When I had a C5, I followed the c5 forum section and there was a really sharp electrical guy who indicated that if you charged a dead battery while still in the car and connected, it would hammer the electronics on the car. Not sure if this is factual or not. FYI
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Old Mar 6, 2017 | 04:42 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by bjones7131
When I had a C5, I followed the c5 forum section and there was a really sharp electrical guy who indicated that if you charged a dead battery while still in the car and connected, it would hammer the electronics on the car. Not sure if this is factual or not. FYI
It can certainly happen because the battery serves not only to deliver power but also to store power and through that storage function it reduces the amplitude of transient spikes that appear on the 12 volt bus. If the battery is defective then then these spikes can cause damage although many of the electronic items in the car have their own transient protection built in however there is still a risk to some items. If you remember the older car manuals you were instructed to turn off the radio before trying to "jump start" it and these component killing transients were the reason.

A normally charged 12 volt battery has around 2.1 volts PER CELL (6 cells making up the battery). Once discharged to 1.9 volts total that battery is well past any reasonable deep discharge. 10 volts under load is considered to be at the extreme end of safe discharge and to measure 1.9 volts presumably under a very light load is off the low end of the scale.
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 10:23 AM
  #39  
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[QUOTE=only9balls;1594227731]2016 Coupe

Left the house for a week and forgot to put the Corvette on a battery tender

So once I got back and it was dead


[B]
QUOTE]

As some other members have mentioned, there might be something else that you need to investigate if the battery goes dead after sitting for a week.

My C7 sits for a month or more during the winter, and always starts right up when I finally want to get her out for a drive.

Good luck.
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Old Mar 7, 2017 | 10:53 AM
  #40  
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The OP had a device plugged into the OBDII port to disable the 4 cylinder mode. It is a known power draw.

[QUOTE=TwoVettes6916;1594245200]
Originally Posted by only9balls
2016 Coupe

Left the house for a week and forgot to put the Corvette on a battery tender

So once I got back and it was dead


[B]
QUOTE]

As some other members have mentioned, there might be something else that you need to investigate if the battery goes dead after sitting for a week.

My C7 sits for a month or more during the winter, and always starts right up when I finally want to get her out for a drive.

Good luck.
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