Avanti

I drive a lot of different manual cars and they are ALL different. Such is life. One reason humans are so adaptable.

fourmat

Fcal

Been driving sticks for 45 years and I still stall out occasionally when I'm not paying attention.
Since trading for my 2018 GS it's only happened once. They do take a learning period.
The clutch in my 2015 Challenger SRT was the best feeling modern clutch I've driven. Too bad the car was a pig as far as road manners went.

jtranger

The only issue I have is starting out from a light in 1st. Seems like I can't get a smooth transition start. The other gears shift like butter.

Any tips on getting a good smooth transition in 1st from a light for both a normal and aggressive start?

Foosh

Practice. It's even harder to get smooth start w/ a clutch engaging lower on the floor.

JerryU

FWIW, you could try starting off in 2nd until you get the hang of throttle/clutch control! It is easier.

Details:
The C7 is a dual disk clutch. It requires less peddle pressure than if it were a typical single disk clutch.

I don't find the C7 clutch, which I have used to for over 4 years in my Z51 and now my Grand Sport, difficult once you get used to it. It is different than the single disk clutch I had in my C6 and two other Vettes.

However found this comment on the net:
"Most of the double disc systems are hard to drive. After the break-in period, double disc clutches become only slightly more drivable than they were before. Simply stated, double disc setups don't allow for feathering. Either the clutch is engaged fully or it's not engaged at all. Smooth take-offs from a stoplight? Nearly impossible. Stop and go? Towing in reverse? Be ready to hate driving."

The above comments, IMO, relate to a racing dual plate clutch (although that is not what the article was about, the title of the article is "The Pros and Cons of Double Disc Clutch Conversions.") Many dual clutch systems are designed for high hp modified cars as those used in drag racing. Racing clutch plates have an aggressive disk compound, center hub spring construction, etc.

jtranger

^^^

One guy at the dealer told me some guys started off in 2nd. Didn't know if that was good info. Wouldn't it kill the engine easier starting in 2nd?
Can you still get a good smooth start and holeshot in 2nd?

DWillys

Yes, easier to kill but if you have the torque and clutch/throttle coordination working right no problem. Holeshot? If you're drag racing then 1st is where to start.

PobreWey

Give it a bit more gas before you let go of the clutch. I find for 1st and 2nd gear you can't let go of the clutch as fast as the other gears and it doesn't feel right unless you got the revs up. What do I know though... I'm just a punk with a Corvette.

Foosh

Interesting . . . I'm able to start very smoothly in 1st on flat ground w/ no throttle (idle speed). These engines have so much torque on the lowest end, they're almost impossible to stall w/ a very smooth release.

fugly1

^Yeah, I'm pretty sure that the car is designed to start in first gear with no throttle. I think I learned that at Spring Mountain.

Foosh

In fact, the more I think about how I drive this car, the more I think the key to "smoothness" is clutch engagement before throttle input. A lot of throttle input pre-engagement almost guarantees additional clutch wear (slipping) and jerky starts.

shellhamer

Test drove a 2019 Z51 this AM. First thing I noticed was the high clutch engagement. Asked the salesperson if that was adjustable. No clue. I guess it is not from what I've read here. I don't recall my C5 letting out that high. Get used to it?

JerryU

^^

Surprising they had: 1st a Z51 and 2nd a standard shift and 3rd they let you test drive!

Yep you'll get used to it. When shifting, don't have to push it to the floor!

Not surprising that salesman had no idea!

shellhamer

http://www.purifoychevrolet.com/Vehi...-CO/3295393803

Well, I'm old and have great credit.

Foosh

Right where it is in the middle is where the engagement point should be. Years ago, I used to think it should be fairly close to the floor, but I've come to realize that tends to lead to premature clutch wear, and it's harder to be as smooth with that setup.

Skid Row Joe

I'm getting shuddering on 1st gear engagement in my C7 M7. It started @ 700 miles or so -consistently. It's only unoticeable if you use higher RPM engagement. Which isn't the way I want to drive the car.

Have no idea if anything is wrong with the car. Anything that needs to be adjusted on the clutch that is. Highly reluctant to hand over to just any Chev. dealer too.

JerryU

Some find it easier to start in 2nd gear. See if that eliminates (or makes it worse) what you're calling a shudder. Might give a clue to the cause.

I'd also try using the Ranger Method of changing the clutch fluid. It's easy and cheep. This is a PDF of how and the visual results: http://netwelding.com/Clutch_Fluid.pdf
Worth a try.

jimmbbo

About the only thing that disappoints me about my '17 C7 Stingray is its clutch engagement... I have driven only MTs for decades, and have never experienced as many engagement originated engine stoppages... Engagement occurs about mid to 3/4 from the floor and is mushy, indistinct, and inconsistent.
I took my '11 Mustang GT out yesterday and its clutch engagement is much more predictable and consistent...
Some owners have inserted an electronic assist module that claims to help, but it's not worth the $179 for me to go that route...

Skid Row Joe

jerryu:

Clutch fluid on my M7, has been Rangered through an entire bottle, and I'm on the 2nd bottle. If more flushing is the Rx, I'm good with that.