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I had mine changed yesterday at my dealer. $240 as it was 2 hours labor. Had to lower exhaust to get at bleed valve so they say. I only did it because when I did Tail Of The Dragon a while back I had an issue when the clutch pedal began to only partially come up from being depressed so I suspected some over heating or some sort of break down of the fluid. Anyway I felt better that I had it done though maybe not necessary.
Using the simple, but very effective Ranger Method, would have alleviated your clutch problem. Don't pay your dealership for that. It's virtually the same thing.
FWIW, performed the Ranger Method at a one year oil change in my Grand Sport. Had also purchased a device that measures brake fluid moisture level so had a chance to test as I emptied the reservoir, pumped 30 times and refilled.
Here are the results:
First look at the color of the clutch fluid. Note by 7 changes it looks like the fluid in the container. (Note, buy a small container of DOT 4 fluid for ~$5 as once open and the metal seal broken it will allow moisture to enter! Screw caps do not provide 100% protection from moisture permeation once the foil seal is broken! Plastic is also permeable. You'll need all of it to perform 7 to 8 changes.) Then look at the meter reading, which measures % moisture. 3% moisture can be tolerated without that forming compressible steam when you apply the brakes! Over 4 it should be changed. The second thing the % moisture progressively gets lower until at 7 changes it is zero = to the value in a new container. IMO it proves the fluid in the reservoir does mix with the fluid in the lines and to some degree the slave cylinder. (BTW, only paid $2.50 on eBay for that meter delivered from China! Scary cheap. Same one is ~$10 on Amazon! I only bought for a fun test- I was planning and will use the Ranger Method at every oil change. It's simple. Empty the reservoir with a syringe, and fill with new fluid. Then pump the clutch 30 times and repeat.) Have been using the Ranger Method since I got my 2008 C6, on my 2014 C7 and now my Grand Sport. May not be as good as draining from the slave cylinder but much easier and cheaper! It's simple: This is a PDF on what I did on my 2015 C7: http://netwelding.com/Clutch_Fluid.pdf
i bought a 2014 a year ago and have been doing the ranger method routinely to keep the fluid clean. i use pentosin super dot 4 fluid. the clutch started acting up and i took it to the dealer. they said the seals were swollen due to the use of improper fluid and both the master and slave have to be replaced at the cost of $4200. i have an extended warranty but they said it won’t be covered due to the wrong fluid being used. pentosin super dot 4 is the wrong fluid?
I bought my 2016 z51 with 17k miles and immediately did the Ranger fluid swap. I can say the fluid I drew out was nasty. I generally do it every 1k miles. It’s cheap and easy so why not.
I think the reason it isnt talked about on C7 vs C6 is that the reservoir on the C6 was transparent and it was easy to see that the fluid looked like crap.
^^^
FWIW, GM says the black color is (at least partially) due to staining from seals. It turns black fairly quickly. At a year it’s not only black but contains moisture. That can cause corrosion if excessive. Changing just because it’s black may be more than necessary.
i bought a 2014 a year ago and have been doing the ranger method routinely to keep the fluid clean. i use pentosin super dot 4 fluid. the clutch started acting up and i took it to the dealer. they said the seals were swollen due to the use of improper fluid and both the master and slave have to be replaced at the cost of $4200. i have an extended warranty but they said it won’t be covered due to the wrong fluid being used. pentosin super dot 4 is the wrong fluid?
This is the Pentosin spec sheet and a spec for GM DOT 4. It seems both meet FMVSS spec 116 DOT 4.
So I call bullshit. How would they even know what fluid was in it unless they did a lab sample anyway ?
i bought a 2014 a year ago and have been doing the ranger method routinely to keep the fluid clean. i use pentosin super dot 4 fluid. the clutch started acting up and i took it to the dealer. they said the seals were swollen due to the use of improper fluid and both the master and slave have to be replaced at the cost of $4200. i have an extended warranty but they said it won’t be covered due to the wrong fluid being used. pentosin super dot 4 is the wrong fluid?
Thats a shady dealership. Did they take a sample and have it analyzed? I'd ask for the sheet showing that. Good info provided by z06inVB.
i bought a 2014 a year ago and have been doing the ranger method routinely to keep the fluid clean. i use pentosin super dot 4 fluid. the clutch started acting up and i took it to the dealer. they said the seals were swollen due to the use of improper fluid and both the master and slave have to be replaced at the cost of $4200. i have an extended warranty but they said it won’t be covered due to the wrong fluid being used. pentosin super dot 4 is the wrong fluid?
Yes, it is the correct fluid and is recommended in the OM. Check Page 11-12 in the 2014 OM.
However, how do they know the seals are swollen? Did they drop the drive train and take the clutch slave cylinder/throw out bearing out of the car and inspect it? Did they remove the master cylinder and check the seals in it? Is the slave leaking? If it is that doesn't necessarily mean the seals are swollen they could just as easily be worn or torn.
Bill
Last edited by Bill Dearborn; 11-07-2018 at 12:14 PM.
Thats a shady dealership. Did they take a sample and have it analyzed? I'd ask for the sheet showing that. Good info provided by z06inVB.
just spoke with them and they offered to do that. problem is they couldn’t tell me how long it will take and i’m moving out of state in two weeks. i need the car working to drive it to my new home. looks like i’m screwed.
Yes, it is the correct fluid and is recommended in the OM. Check Page 11-12 in the 2014 OM.
However, how do they know the seals are swollen? Did they drop the drive train and take the clutch slave cylinder/throw out bearing out of the car and inspect it? Did they remove the master cylinder and check the seals in it? Is the slave leaking? If it is that doesn't necessarily mean the seals are swollen they could just as easily be worn or torn.
Bill
well they offered to show me the seals so i guess they did all that. they saw no leaks. they didn’t say the seals were torn or worn, just swollen. the OM states only use gm (part number) super dot 4 brake fluid. i didn’t think i had to use gm specifically. i thought i could use any super dot 4 fluid as long as it met gm spec.
well they offered to show me the seals so i guess they did all that. they saw no leaks. they didn’t say the seals were torn or worn, just swollen. the OM states only use gm (part number) super dot 4 brake fluid. i didn’t think i had to use gm specifically. i thought i could use any super dot 4 fluid as long as it met gm spec.
IMO they are ripping you of! I have used the Ranger Method in my C6 for 6 years, my 2014 Z51 for 3 years and the Grand Sport for 2. I use the full 30 pumps for 6 or 7 empty/fill cycles. See my results with the Grand Sport in post #22 above. I use the full small container of DOT 4 not even super DOT 4. Once opened I don’t save any fluid, always buy new annually when I perform that service. Never had an issue.
The GM proceedure in the Owner’s Manual calls for draining from the slave cylinder every 2 or 3 years depending on the year. Don’t know why it is deiffernt in the 2014 and 2017 Owner’s Manuals but it is.
Is the dealer also going to say you should have done that? It requires removing the left exhaust pipe and CAT from the header, parts of the metal covers on the exhaust just to get to the slave cylinder bleed!
If you have not already paid do a full Ranger Method with 30 pumps per change and at least 6 changes and see if your problem gets any better. As I show in post #22 and Ranger clearly shows in his video’s it does mix but takes the 30 pumps.
After each periodic bowl change, I slowly pump the clutch 15 times before starting the engine and taking off on a drive.
I'm going to be at least a monthly bowl changer. Here on out.
*jerryu, the pumping before starting seems to have somewhat DIMINISHED the stuttering/shuddering at a low RPM, and slow clutch release. Will keep you posted. Just an FYI.
Last edited by Skid Row Joe; 11-08-2018 at 01:10 AM.
IMO they are ripping you of! I have used the Ranger Method in my C6 for 6 years, my 2014 Z51 for 3 years and the Grand Sport for 2. I use the full 30 pumps for 6 or 7 empty/fill cycles. See my results with the Grand Sport in post #22 above. I use the full small container of DOT 4 not even super DOT 4. Once opened I don’t save any fluid, always buy new annually when I perform that service. Never had an issue.
The GM proceedure in the Owner’s Manual calls for draining from the slave cylinder every 2 or 3 years depending on the year. Don’t know why it is deiffernt in the 2014 and 2017 Owner’s Manuals but it is.
Is the dealer also going to say you should have done that? It requires removing the left exhaust pipe and CAT from the header, parts of the metal covers on the exhaust just to get to the slave cylinder bleed!
If you have not already paid do a full Ranger Method with 30 pumps per change and at least 6 changes and see if your problem gets any better. As I show in post #22 and Ranger clearly shows in his video’s it does mix but takes the 30 pumps.
its not the dealer. gm extended warranty will use any excuse to deny a claim. a did a fill ranger for six bowls/30 pumps each just two weeks ago. been doing that for the last year. looks like i’m just going to have to eat it. 🐂
its not the dealer. gm extended warranty will use any excuse to deny a claim. a did a fill ranger for six bowls/30 pumps each just two weeks ago. been doing that for the last year. looks like i’m just going to have to eat it. 🐂
I agree extended warranty’s don’t cover a lot. I just question the diagnosis. But have to agree if you just did 6 resivoir changes with 30 pumps each, may have to eat the replacement. At least they have to make it work.
Do you use a new fluid container each time? Just curious.
I agree extended warranty’s don’t cover a lot. I just question the diagnosis. But have to agree if you just did 6 resivoir changes with 30 pumps each, may have to eat the replacement. At least they have to make it work.
Do you use a new fluid container each time? Just curious.
no, the pentosin container is metal and they claim it can be stored indefinitely. i did the same thing for years with my c6 and never had an issue. even changed from dot 3 to dot 4 without incident.
no, the pentosin container is metal and they claim it can be stored indefinitely. i did the same thing for years with my c6 and never had an issue. even changed from dot 3 to dot 4 without incident.
Yep, metal will eliminate moisture permeation versus plastic that will allow water vapor to pass through the package. However, the metal cap is not a perfect stop! I used the fluid moisture measurment device (see post #22) to check an open container of new zero moisture brake fluid from the small plastic container. Put some in a small jar. Did not take long for it to reach the max it measures, 4%.
Even the plastic brake fluid container comes with an aluminum foil seal on top before opening. Once that is broken moisture will permeate into the container faster pass the cap than through the sides. If they use a metal seal on the top under the metal cap on the Pentosin can it proably can prevent moisture from entering indefinetly. But once that meal seal is broken it would be interesting to measure the moisture in the container over time.
SIDE BAR:
Did a lot of research to define the best package for preventing moisture entering MIG welding wire packages. Plastic bags were the worst as the moisture quickly entered and was trapped. For a very high strength MIG welding wire used for some critical Navel vessels and components, called HY-140 (140,000 psi yield strength in the as-welded condition) we used metal cans. But had to seal the seam. That product specification calls for max 2 ppm hydrogen as I recall. High strength steel is very susceptible to hydrogen induced cracking.
Don't wait for oil changes, or time, or mileage, to use the Ranger method. Do it whenever it goes from clear to gray. It's cheap and ridiculously simple.
Did it over many years with my C6 Z06 and never any problem whatsoever.
I'm new to this C7 so I just looked at the bowl and was surprised at how small it is. Not only that but it's black and you can't see the color of the fluid. I'm thinking you would have to do the ranger method several times to see positive results.
07-20-2018, 04:19 PM
