How to check A8 for problems






Confusing...
Set cruise control to 65mph and drive for a little bit on smooth highway. Look for constant RPM fluctuations that are "unsettling". This is all in the feeling, there is no other way to judge besides hooking it up to the computers. If it doesn't feel right and the slips are too many, a tad bit violent, then be wary. If you like a certain car, test drive it then one or two others to compare in same conditions.
Also, ask them NOT to start the car overnight if possible, and go test first thing in the morning. Dont let the salesman turn it on at all until you get there. Once you arrive and start it up, look for a delayed engagement from park to drive (or reverse).
I know this is alot, but you asked how to check for issues and the above is the best way to do it.
Last edited by Steve Garrett; May 2, 2017 at 09:25 PM.
When my torque converter failed it would fluctuate (and vibrate) while constantly in V4 mode with an ever so slight increase in speed that wouldn't put it into V8 mode. The easiest way to demo this for my tech was the put cruise control on, let it drop into V4, then whenever there was a slight change in elevation that required more gas, it would oscillate.
Last edited by Rebel Yell; May 2, 2017 at 02:49 PM.
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You rarely see this issue showing up with Z06 owners where AFM is rarely active compared to the Stingray but I bet the issue starts showing up at higher mileage once the torque converter mechanical lock up clutch spends enough time being cycled. My Z06 will not be going into V4 mode.

Buy the car and take off! Never visit the forum again unless you have a problem. OK, I obviously have not taken my own advice. My 2016 A8 has been fine, but read the forum too much and you will start to wonder if every little bump in the road is a slip, or a surge, etc. Try not to stare at the tach so much you hit someone. I too check it in V4 and V8 and have no oscillation like has been shown on videos.
When brand new I had a slightly rough 3/2/1 downshift in auto when coming to a full stop, but with just a couple hundred miles it learned to skip the 2 and just go 3/1.
And have some fun with manual shifting too. I go back and forth--around town maybe A8, but a spirited drive on curvy roads go M8. Using M more and more. Here is a fun link to manual shifting: LINK
What's more, if it gets fixed there also is no assurance a repair job will nix the problems for the long term, as some have reported having the job done twice as GM continues to experiment with new TC and fluid revisions. Nobody knows if even the current revisions are good fixes. My car got the #24280631 TC and #19353429 fluid and ran fine for the next month. The shudder was gone and tach oscillation reduced to just barely noticeable, no longer the rhythmic up and down movement seen before. The lack of certainty that it would be a definitive fix and GM's lack of interest in doing the o-ring upgrade for the delayed engagement while the tranny was out of the car exhausted my patience for what was otherwise a great car. In March of 2017 I traded it for a new GS M7 and I'm very happy indeed.
Last edited by iclick; May 2, 2017 at 08:34 PM.
There's a very slight vibration that can occasionally be detected (honestly unless you're looking for it, it goes unnoticed) when going from v8 to v4 mode...and it's "normal".
I haven't experienced any issues with mine, other than a couple of hard shifts while coming to a stop. I blame it more on software than hardware. The A8 does an amazing job of predicting what a driver would naturally do (downshifting, upshifting, holding a gear) under various road conditions. Occasionally it will make a mistake.
I'm REALLY happy I chose the A8. I was concerned it would be lacking on the track, but after Spring Mountain, and living with the A8 for a year, I'd never choose a Tremec in its place.
Hopefully my A8 will hold up long-term...so far so good.
Now, I agree an owner that hasn't experienced any of these transmission shouldn't sit around worried that theirs will fail eventually, but that certainly doesn't mean it won't.
A friend is on his 3rd C7 because of this problem. First car(2015) dumped the transmission with 4 miles on it(transmission replaced and friend refused to take delivery of it, even though he had just bought it), second (2015)dumped the transmission at 1200 miles(transmission replaced) and then started doing the same thing again in six months, so GM put him into a new 2016. He has around 3,000-4,000 miles on it and it's starting the shuddering problem. Last time I talked with him, he was going to take it to the dealer, and see if the fluid change would do any good.
But, even if the car drives right, it's no positive indicator that everything is all right with the transmission. Another friend's 2015 Z06 ran great(but did have the flex plate replaced earlier) up to 7,000 miles, when it decided to have it's transmission explode.

As you can see, that's not something that you can just accept and live with, even if you love your car more than you do your Pit Bull.
Last edited by JoesC5; May 3, 2017 at 10:02 AM.
I know this is alot, but you asked how to check for issues and the above is the best way to do it.
It was doing it every single day right up until I started having my phone ready to record the sumbitch doing it but wouldn't ya know it, now the sumbitch hasn't done it once!
Like the car is frackin with me and not how I like it neither.
I have the RPM thing too but the 2 minute delay from P to R was the most noticeable. Maybe if I stop trying to record it? lol
I told them I'll bring it in at 5pm and I'm keeping the key till the next day when I get there. Hopefully it does it but like so many other issues I've had them verify, verification and diagnosis can be mutually exclusive.

















