Thought installing this Cue Ball size Grand Sport Shift **** would be easy. After all installed one on my prior 2014 C7 an only issue was removing the chrome ring!

To start, it looked like this ring would turn easy compared to needing pliers for the 2014! However what turned out to be easy was the leather boot slipping off from the chrome ring! Fortunately rather than taking the top off the console and trying to fasten in back mechanically I recalled a poster saying in a thread where this had happened that he would just use Gorilla glue! My adhesive of first choice is 5 minute epoxy. Applied in the chrome ring groove carefully with a toothpick and put the leather back- worked great!

The next step was to remove the screw from the OEM ****! Even applying some heat to the screw to overcome the Locktite GM probably used, it would not budge! Bought a new Torx bit and some "sure grip paste" and achieved enough force to shear the head off the screw! Drilled it out, installed the longer screw that came with the new **** and reached unharmed threads and all was fine!

Took much longer than the 15 minutes expected!

This is a PDF of the install on my 2014 as well as the Grand Sport: http://netwelding.com/Shift_Knob.pdf




Cue Ball size shift **** works great, reduces stroke ~12% since it sits lower on shaft.

 

Wow horror story for a shift **** Glad you got it done

 

^^^^

Thanks. Yep, it's always great when it's over!

What I thought would be an easy mod since, A) I had done it before on my 2014 and dealt with the difficultly of removal of the chrome ring that has been in many posts B) in 3 1/2 years have seen issues posted with the leather boot coming off; never thought removing the screw would be an issue.

There are comments in some instructions of driving the car for several hours to get the shift handle warm. Thought using a soldering iron with the flat tip would be better. Looking back, should have, 1) bought a new #15 Torx bit to start (that small size does wear) and 2) heated the screw longer before trying to remove it. That may have worked but if GM used Red Loctite on that small screw, perhaps not.

I also recall having to use a 1/2 inch breaker bar to remove the side drain plug the first time I changed oil in my 2014. It clearly had Loctite on the threads when I got it out. This whole shift ****, boot design could be better IMO.

This is the reason I make the PDF's of what are "simple mods" so others don't have to go through some of the same problems. Like the fellow who posted he was going to use C4 explosive when frustrated trying to get the chrome ring off and than at the end of the post said "you'll see the issue when you get it off!" Big help with that Catch 22 statement!

Or the Vette 4 volume Service Manual that says when changing the battery, unclip the Power Board from the positive terminal. No picture or comment on where the clips were or how to do it! Took me some trial and error before I found the not so obvious locations and method! My PDF had a pic with arrows!

 

That cue ball shifter sitting lower on the shaft probably feels great when you shift. Looks really neat also.

 

Thanks, it does feel better than the OEM ****. In fact did not remember how much I missed it until I was driving my new Grand Sport for two weeks without it!

I found in my 2014 M7 that it was a help with the 1st to 2nd shift but also the 4th to 7th shift (commonly used when going from the onramp to the Interstate.) I also use it after quickly passing and 18 wheeler to minimize exposure time to throwing rocks. I just pull back lightly and let the springs bring me to 4th, then shift directly back to 7th. With my fat hands makes it easy and feels better than the OEM gear shift. A unique feature on the M7 is if in cruise control when you shift back to 7th it automatically returns the set speed, no need to hit resume!

I measure a 12% stroke reduction since the **** sits lower on the shaft. Not enough to feel like it requires more force but in the right direction for faster shifts.

 

My boot was stapled to the ring.. Didn't you end up with some loose staples somewhere since you did not remove the boot to fix it?

I eliminated the ring completely.

 

very cool i really dig that retro hurst look

 

Its always the easy mods that turn out difficult and vice versa. Glad you were able to drill out the bolt without damaging anything.

 

Love mine too. My screw came out of the original shift handle with ease.

It still was a pain in the *** with the boot.

 

In fact I saw what looked like one side of an silver in appearance heavy perhaps staple. It must have fallen down as when I exposed the whole ring it was not there. Assume it's down there somewhere!

 

Looks great, looking to do the same thing and having a mahogany ball made. I have a 2016 Z06 and they need manual shifter shaft size so they know what size hole to make being its pressed on. Much Appreciated !

 

Loos great, Do you know what size the shaft is. I am having a mahogany shifter ball made and the vendor needs to know the size so they can press it on. Thanks,

 

Damn Jerry, that's quite the adventure getting that shift **** on. Glad it all worked out in the end.

 

Hmm, that is such an old Post, after all that effort in 6 months the ball started to rattle! Turns out the new manufacturer had tolerances that apparently were not as tight as the first who made that design (perhaps have fixed!) Others had similar issues, because of the difficulties I had with screw and boot ring designed to replace the shifter!

Installed an MGW flat stick and ordered the full cue ball size white **** from their **** supplier separatly- It's a screw on! Here is that Install PDF: http://netwelding.com/MGW_Shifter.pdf

 

I used an electric soldering gun on the screw on my '18 and heated the crappola out of it. It wouldn't begin to budge without a LOT of heat and then, "popped" right out. As for my boot and ring, they turned independently on mine, as well... no staples, adhesive or anything else. But, I could hold the hole mess together very tightly with my hand, pushing down or pulling up (which ever was required--too long ago, I forget), then it turned and released. Since I had to replace a faulty **** sent by one of the Forum vendorrs, I got to do it twice. All the best!

 

^^
Yep, some come out easy some NOT! I used a paste that says it increases the friction 8 times. It worked, got more force and sheared the head right off the screw!!!

Funny, on my Grand Sport had similar problem first time I removed the side oil drain plug! It also had a Loctite but looked brown. Could have been a bad batch or was from China! Was all prepared as my 2014 Z51 also had Loctite. Had my 1/2 inch drive ratchet, long extension with a 6 point socket. However the Grand Sport has a longer oil cooler and the extension will not fit under. No room for the socket with ratchet wrench. My 12 point box wrench was rounding the soft plug hex. Even have a large 6 point flare nut wrench but the soft hex was rounding!

Finally put my 6 point socket on and although no room for a ratchet put a large pipe wrench on the socket sides and got it off! Recommend getting a 6 point box wrench to folks, just in case! What's also funny is the front drain plug came off with such little force I was glad the car was only used for 500 miles as it may have vibrated lose over time!