Joemosfet's DIY widebody conversion project
#41
I'm Batman..
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Location: Lehigh Acres FL
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I found something interesting that I think deserves repeating here:
If you want to Z06 / GS widebody, you must do the front fenders as well. The Stingray fenders do not line up with the Z06 aperture panels, at all. It has been suggested here (and I think even a vendor is selling a rear-and-aperture-only widebody kit) that it was possible, and unfortunately it is not. At least not without dramatically modifying either the aperture panel or the fender.
#42
I'm sure this very exciting to know you will have the best looking car on the planet. Yours and every other GS,and ZO6. Thanks for sharing. What is the name of the epoxy and what is the name of the urethane ?
#43
You can do just the rear wide body. The rear wide body kits don't use the stock design aperture rocker panel. They have their own. I've also seen aperture panels that are are made about one foot lower so you can cut lower and than where the factory stickers are. I won't buy those because I then need to mark and measure where to cut factory panel. Using stock you know to take the whole panel off and replace.
#44
Le Mans Master
Wow, this really was a great read. Excellent job OP, nothing like the satisfaction of doing it yourself and the added bonus of spending time with your dad. The car may be gone one day (although I doubt it based on your love and dedication to it), but the memories of working on it with your dad are guaranteed to stay with you forever.
After reading this, I feel like a complete coward for constantly putting off swapping my Stingray quarter vents for the GS/Z06 ones because I'm afraid to pull the tops of the quarters.
After reading this, I feel like a complete coward for constantly putting off swapping my Stingray quarter vents for the GS/Z06 ones because I'm afraid to pull the tops of the quarters.
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joemosfet (05-29-2017)
#45
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Quantity Two of 3M 08693 Window Urethane (standard caulking gun will work with this).
Quantity One of 3M 08115 Panel Bonding Adhesive (requires a double barrel epoxy gun, like *** M200LVMR.
You might find them a few bucks cheaper on ebay.
Yeah, but better to know now rather than when you're in the middle of installing them, yeah?
Quantity One of 3M 08115 Panel Bonding Adhesive (requires a double barrel epoxy gun, like *** M200LVMR.
You might find them a few bucks cheaper on ebay.
Yeah, but better to know now rather than when you're in the middle of installing them, yeah?
Last edited by joemosfet; 05-29-2017 at 11:50 PM.
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Johnp94 (05-30-2017)
#46
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Originally Posted by joemosfet
Yeah, but better to know now rather than when you're in the middle of installing them, yeah?
Last edited by FYREANT; 05-29-2017 at 11:57 PM.
#47
Le Mans Master
I got a few hours in today, I got the aperture panels glued on, the interior reassembled and cleaned up, and I was able to mock up the front fenders and get the hardware transfered over from the old ones. I've updated post#2 with the progress.
I found something interesting that I think deserves repeating here:
If you want to Z06 / GS widebody, you must do the front fenders as well. The Stingray fenders do not line up with the Z06 aperture panels, at all. It has been suggested here (and I think even a vendor is selling a rear-and-aperture-only widebody kit) that it was possible, and unfortunately it is not. At least not without dramatically modifying either the aperture panel or the fender.
I found something interesting that I think deserves repeating here:
If you want to Z06 / GS widebody, you must do the front fenders as well. The Stingray fenders do not line up with the Z06 aperture panels, at all. It has been suggested here (and I think even a vendor is selling a rear-and-aperture-only widebody kit) that it was possible, and unfortunately it is not. At least not without dramatically modifying either the aperture panel or the fender.
I'm having a hard time visualizing how the front edge and bottom edge of the door lines up with the front fender and rocker/aperture panel of the Stingray, but, using that exact same door, the front/bottom door edge *also* lines up with the GS/Z06 front fenders and rockers, which are somehow very *different* than the Stingray.
Please note -- I'm not calling you out... you have both there in front of you and can see it from angles that I cannot. I'm just curious *how* the fit is "incompatible", yet the bottom and front edges of the door are the exact same datum points with reference to fitment of front fender and rocker?
EDIT: I was looking at the pic further -- Maybe the GS/Z06 rocker leaves more of a flat 'shelf' under the door, where the Stingray rocker/door bottom is flush?
Thanks for your project and the great info!
Last edited by Kent1999; 05-30-2017 at 12:10 AM.
#48
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
^The Stingray aperture panel curves under the car more.
The aperture panel sits very slightly behind the fender. The Stingray aperture panel curves under the car a bit more than the Z06 aperture panel. With the Stingray fender on, the aperture panel pushes out the bottom of the fender which screws up the curve all the way up.
This photo, where the fender is not pulled all the way up yet, shows that the fender wants to curve more but the aperture panel says no:
And then finally, with the Z06 fender on, all is fine:
Notice how the Stingray fender wants to curve under the car after its past the door. (Ignore the line on the door itself, the door itself has some up/down alignment that I still need to do.)
Edit: here is a mspaint showing contours that may not be visible in the pic:
edit: Ok, here's a great pic showing the difference between the Stingray and Z06 aperture panel:
The aperture panel sits very slightly behind the fender. The Stingray aperture panel curves under the car a bit more than the Z06 aperture panel. With the Stingray fender on, the aperture panel pushes out the bottom of the fender which screws up the curve all the way up.
This photo, where the fender is not pulled all the way up yet, shows that the fender wants to curve more but the aperture panel says no:
And then finally, with the Z06 fender on, all is fine:
Notice how the Stingray fender wants to curve under the car after its past the door. (Ignore the line on the door itself, the door itself has some up/down alignment that I still need to do.)
Edit: here is a mspaint showing contours that may not be visible in the pic:
edit: Ok, here's a great pic showing the difference between the Stingray and Z06 aperture panel:
Last edited by joemosfet; 05-30-2017 at 12:59 AM.
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matt3310 (06-01-2017)
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LT4CMG (06-08-2017)
#52
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
No updates this week, I was on vacation last weekend and wasn't around to finish up.
This weekend I should have a chance to put it back together. I still haven't received the spoiler yet from C7 Carbon, so I may leave the rear fascia off until it arrives and I can get it installed.
This weekend I should have a chance to put it back together. I still haven't received the spoiler yet from C7 Carbon, so I may leave the rear fascia off until it arrives and I can get it installed.
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matt3310 (06-08-2017)
#53
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I did a bit more work today, but a crawfish boil is limiting the amount of time. Still got some progress done: gapped the fenders and the doors, got the front fascia on, the rear quarter panels, the front wheel wells, and the front fender extensions.
I updated Post #2 with a lot more pics.
I updated Post #2 with a lot more pics.
Last edited by joemosfet; 06-11-2017 at 07:22 PM.
#54
Do I need to purchase a duct cover for the aperture panels opening ?
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joemosfet (06-12-2017)
#56
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16
Yes, here's one place that offers them, but look around and you can find them cheaper.
https://www.rpidesigns.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=5332
JV
https://www.rpidesigns.com/shop/item.aspx?itemid=5332
JV
Last edited by Jet Vet; 06-12-2017 at 11:06 AM.
#57
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Last edited by joemosfet; 06-12-2017 at 10:13 AM.
#58
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St. Jude Donor '15-'16
JV
#60
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
You can do the brake ducting one of two two ways. The original one piece duct which draws air from under the frame will still work fine and you can block off the area behind the new aperture scoop, making it for show only. Or you can buy the functional duct, which comes in about four sections which twist and contort from the back of the new opening through the wheel well liner. If you go that route, I can sell you the duct sections that I purchased, because I decided not to do it that way. I got them through my dealer parts dept.
JV
JV