Becoming difficult to shift into gear
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 25,583
Likes: 16,942
A cryptic post like the above is not likely to get you any help. You need to supply quite a bit more info on the symptoms.
Is your clutch pedal sticking? Is it all gears? Does it only happen when cold or all the time? Have you checked the clutch fluid reservoir, etc., etc.
Is your clutch pedal sticking? Is it all gears? Does it only happen when cold or all the time? Have you checked the clutch fluid reservoir, etc., etc.
Last edited by Foosh; Jul 19, 2017 at 12:40 AM.
Thread Starter
Heel & Toe
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 16
Likes: 0
A cryptic post like the above is not likely to get you any help. You need to supply quite a bit more info on the symptoms.
Is your clutch pedal sticking? Is it all gears? Does it only happen when cold or all the time? Have you checked the clutch fluid reservoir, etc., etc.
Is your clutch pedal sticking? Is it all gears? Does it only happen when cold or all the time? Have you checked the clutch fluid reservoir, etc., etc.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 981
Likes: 157
Difficulty getting it into gear indicates the synchronizers aren't doing a good job of getting the parts spinning at the same speed. It's very unlikely that all the synchronizers are going bad this early, so something is happening to keep the clutch disc and transmission input shaft spinning faster than they should.
Possible causes include:
Not depressing the pedal far enough to fully disengage the clutch
Low fluid level in the clutch master cylinder reservoir
Defective pressure plate assembly
Some of the friction material on the clutch disc has come loose, and it's dragging on the flywheel or pressure plate.
Defective throwout bearing/concentric slave cylinder
Defective pilot bearing/bushing between the crankshaft and transmission input shaft
You should be pretty good at using the clutch by now, and it's easy to check/fix the fluid level. The other things require a trip to the dealer.
Possible causes include:
Not depressing the pedal far enough to fully disengage the clutch
Low fluid level in the clutch master cylinder reservoir
Defective pressure plate assembly
Some of the friction material on the clutch disc has come loose, and it's dragging on the flywheel or pressure plate.
Defective throwout bearing/concentric slave cylinder
Defective pilot bearing/bushing between the crankshaft and transmission input shaft
You should be pretty good at using the clutch by now, and it's easy to check/fix the fluid level. The other things require a trip to the dealer.
Last edited by WelderGuy; Jul 19, 2017 at 03:42 AM.
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 35,067
Likes: 12,429
From: NE South Carolina
A dealer will bleed from the slave cylinder but that requires removing an exhaust pipe and CAT to get to the bleed valve! They will not do a clutch bleed on warranty so you'll pay $125+ if you have not had it done. There is a simple procedure you can try to see if it is possibly clutch fluid contamination. Small particles can clog valves, restrict flow in small passages etc.
The simpler method is called the Ranger Method. I use it every oil change. Did that for 6 years in my C6 and 3 1/2 in my C7. Cost <$10 and takes <30 minutes.
This is a picture/text PDF of the simple method: http://netwelding.com/Clutch_Fluid.pdf
Here are some pics on the first one I did on my C7:
Clutch Fluid After 1st and 6th Change Using a Simple Replace and 30 Pump Procedure After Each Refill.
Last edited by JerryU; Jul 19, 2017 at 08:16 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2014
Posts: 981
Likes: 157
Changing the clutch fluid is important, and the Ranger method is the easiest and least expensive way to do it, but I don't think dirty fluid has anything to do with the OP's problem.
Fluid contaminated with dust from the clutch parts causes excessive wear on the piston and seals in the concentric slave cylinder, and that results in the clutch pedal sticking to the floor.
Fluid contaminated with dust from the clutch parts causes excessive wear on the piston and seals in the concentric slave cylinder, and that results in the clutch pedal sticking to the floor.
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 35,067
Likes: 12,429
From: NE South Carolina
^^^
Perhaps you're right but for $10 if he never changed the fluid, worth a try. The original Ranger Video showed issues of contaminated fluid causing the clutch not to fully disengage!
He should do it anyway. Be curious if the dealer doesn't suggest bleeding (for $125+) as a first step before taking the trans apart! In fact most dealers don't have the skilled folks to to that! Probably send it out! Have a friend with a 6 bay shop that does most trans repairs for the local dealers. He said so few new car issues dealers don't keep someone with the skill needed. Most of his work is on auto and std trans imports in older cars.
Have to ask him if he has rebuilt any Vette A8s!
Perhaps you're right but for $10 if he never changed the fluid, worth a try. The original Ranger Video showed issues of contaminated fluid causing the clutch not to fully disengage!
He should do it anyway. Be curious if the dealer doesn't suggest bleeding (for $125+) as a first step before taking the trans apart! In fact most dealers don't have the skilled folks to to that! Probably send it out! Have a friend with a 6 bay shop that does most trans repairs for the local dealers. He said so few new car issues dealers don't keep someone with the skill needed. Most of his work is on auto and std trans imports in older cars.
Have to ask him if he has rebuilt any Vette A8s!
Last edited by JerryU; Jul 19, 2017 at 07:19 AM.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 8,847
Likes: 795
From: Longview Texas
If it is hard to get into ALL gears, probably not shifter alignment, but it would not hurt to check it. If shifter is out of alignment, it usually means it will be harder to get in the gears where the shifter is either forward or toward the rear of the car, but not both. Basically, you just re-center the shifter around neutral.
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Jul 19, 2017 at 11:50 AM.
