Harbor Freight Jack Question
#1
Pro
Thread Starter
Harbor Freight Jack Question
I've read about the Harbor Freight low profile jack on here before so I went to go buy one and noticed they have 2 ton and 3 ton version. The 2 ton is a bit longer and says it lifts higher. The 3 ton is a bit cheaper. Any reason I should spend more $ for the 2 ton? It will be used exclusively on my GS.
#2
Le Mans Master
Skip those and get this one instead: https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton...ump-62160.html
I have two of these and they work perfectly on the C7. Use hockey pucks as jacking pucks and you'll be set.
I have two of these and they work perfectly on the C7. Use hockey pucks as jacking pucks and you'll be set.
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#4
Melting Slicks
Just bought the longer one. Gets it up higher faster. 23" if I rember correctly versus about 19" or so. I have 12" Race Ramp cribs so hoping it'll be just one go to get them in.
Something I didn;t know,,,, 20% off coupons not valid for floor jacks.
Something I didn;t know,,,, 20% off coupons not valid for floor jacks.
#6
Burning Brakes
I've read about the Harbor Freight low profile jack on here before so I went to go buy one and noticed they have 2 ton and 3 ton version. The 2 ton is a bit longer and says it lifts higher. The 3 ton is a bit cheaper. Any reason I should spend more $ for the 2 ton? It will be used exclusively on my GS.
#8
Racer
Harbor Freight 1.5 ton aluminum jack
Skip those and get this one instead: https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton...ump-62160.html
I have two of these and they work perfectly on the C7. Use hockey pucks as jacking pucks and you'll be set.
I have two of these and they work perfectly on the C7. Use hockey pucks as jacking pucks and you'll be set.
I use these with jack pucks I ordered from a forum vendor. You might need the 2 ton if you lower the car, it goes 1/2" lower than the 1.5.
I measured the distance to the cross member jack points and I didn't think the longer 2 ton would reach them, but then I don't always measure right-has anyone used them that way?
I also bought the 1.5T for $59.95 on sale-which happens about every week.
The 1.5T weighs 31#, 2T weighs 93#. I can the 2T in the trunk of a car, but I wouldn't like it
#9
Le Mans Master
#10
Burning Brakes
Weight would be my only thought. The 3 ton for sure weighs more. I bought the blue/silver 2 ton HF model they have for that reason alone. They are a lot easier to throw around.
My 2 cents!!!
My 2 cents!!!
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#12
Burning Brakes
Skip those and get this one instead: https://www.harborfreight.com/15-ton...ump-62160.html
I have two of these and they work perfectly on the C7. Use hockey pucks as jacking pucks and you'll be set.
I have two of these and they work perfectly on the C7. Use hockey pucks as jacking pucks and you'll be set.
#13
I bought the 1.5 also for about $50.00. Get the lowest price and then ask for the 20% discount (usually in their ad). The 1.5 worked great when I recently installed new wheels and tires on the C6.
#14
Pro
Or you can get nicer 3 ton aluminum jack at Costco for the same price.
https://www.costco.com/3-Ton-Profess...100222458.html
https://www.costco.com/3-Ton-Profess...100222458.html
Last edited by maugust24; 08-08-2017 at 01:04 AM.
#15
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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I've read about the Harbor Freight low profile jack on here before so I went to go buy one and noticed they have 2 ton and 3 ton version. The 2 ton is a bit longer and says it lifts higher. The 3 ton is a bit cheaper. Any reason I should spend more $ for the 2 ton? It will be used exclusively on my GS.
However to get a very low minimum height specification the jack saddle is so shallow that it does not capture the jack pad. At 95 pounds this heavy jack, although the long arm does not have to move in as far as the small short arm jack, was not moving into the car at all, even on my tiled garage floor!
Being concerned about the saddle possibly slipping off the jack pad, I welded a 1/2 inch high rim around the saddle so it captured a 1 inch high jack pad! Assuming you don't want to do that, I would suggest buying a lighter weight jack with a jack arm of around 15 inches.
I welded a 1/2 inch rim around the circumference of the saddle to capture a 1 inch high jack pad! Works great.
Note, "A" is the length of the jack arm from pivot to saddle. "X" is how far the jack must move into the car to keep the jack saddle centered under the jack pad; all for a fixed lift height I selected to make the calculations. I picked X as the max height obtainable with my short arm jack. The long arm jack looked to be the best choice until I found it's 95 pound weight made it difficult to move into the car! Note the higher you lift, the more the jack MUST move into the car to keep the jack saddle centered under the jack pad.
Last edited by JerryU; 08-08-2017 at 11:09 AM.
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#16
I own the 3 ton low profile and the aluminum 1.5 ton. The 3 ton is a heck of a lot sturdier and is my go-to. Fits under a C7 lowered on stock bolts. Nice to have two though.
#17
Melting Slicks
I agree after owning the 2-ton version for 3½ years. Low enough to slide in anywhere and long enough to reach most of the jacking points without using ramps, and well built. These go on sale periodically for ~$100, and managed to get mine for $80 with a coupon. Great bargain, but be aware they are very heavy (~90 lbs.), which isn't a problem if you are wheeling it around on a smooth garage floor. Jerry knows what I mean if you must lift it into the car! I wouldn't try doing that in a C7 without an extra pair of hands and biceps, though. Mine stays on the garage floor.
Jerry's notes on the saddle movement issue is something I watch for but will do so more closely in the future, as I never did any calculations. I always spot check it as it's going up and use jack stands for safety insurance as a rule, not an exception.
I also often use the HFT cross beam with 2x4 squares in place of the two pad sections, as they are too far apart for a C6 or C7. This combo will slide into the rear and barely clear the lifting point (cradle), but to get in the front you'll need to raise the car a bit first. I use some DIY ramps for that.
Jerry's notes on the saddle movement issue is something I watch for but will do so more closely in the future, as I never did any calculations. I always spot check it as it's going up and use jack stands for safety insurance as a rule, not an exception.
I also often use the HFT cross beam with 2x4 squares in place of the two pad sections, as they are too far apart for a C6 or C7. This combo will slide into the rear and barely clear the lifting point (cradle), but to get in the front you'll need to raise the car a bit first. I use some DIY ramps for that.
Last edited by iclick; 08-08-2017 at 12:15 PM.
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#18
Burning Brakes
#19
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The 2 ton at HF just had a coupon sale for $59.95 last week or so.
#20
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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I recall when we toured the one of only two warehouses HF has in the US located in Dillon SC. The tour was part of our local ASME section meeting and one of our members asked, as we toured this massive facility, if they buy from Black & Decker etc. The plant manager, who was conducting the tour, said I see their product being made in the same plants in China where we purchase!
Sad, they get 60 full trailers from the ports in Charleston, Savanna etc every day on one side of the huge warehouse and 70 trailers go out the other side to their stores. As a country, we are getting real good at distribution!
I would not get under a car with just a jack wherever it was built!
Last edited by JerryU; 08-08-2017 at 04:25 PM.
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