HELP- Name That Engine Noise





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Read my post #10. I would take off the black duct going to the hood vent, just a few bolts, but if you are not handy try the following without doing that:
Get a 3 foot section of old garden hose. Don’t have one? Go to Lowe’s and buy a piece of 3/4 clear hose (it comes on reels, they will cut to size.)
Have someone in the driver’s seat.
Put one end of the hose next to your ear.
Than start at the throttle body rubber connector and clamps, put the other hose end around that area. I would put top, bottom and both side. Have the person in the driver’s seat gun the engine to create the sound.
See if the noise gets louder. Assuming NOT. Move to the two hoses mentioned in post #10. They are connected to the black plastic appendage attached to the intake air tube. Look under the plastic hood vent air duct. Again gun the motor to create the sound. Follow those hose ends to where they start, one at the engine and the dry sump tank. Check there as well.
Assuming it does not get louder, move to the electrical fitting on the air intake tube near the air filter. It has a red locking clip and it is toward the engine. It’s the only wire attached. That is the MAF sensor. Check there for increased noise, i.e. a leak from the hole where it inserts.
Then, if NOT, check around the air filter housing where it parts. Check along the top bottom and sides. If NOT, as the dealer said, “It’s Probably Normal,” but frankly from what I heard on the video - - NOT! However can’t think of any other easy way to isolate at this time so live with it!

Kidding, when you do find out what it is, let us know.
PS: By the way if you have more than ~25,000 miles and have not done it-change the air filter! That will require removing all the connections I mentioned above, and the intake air tube.
If you did change the filter yourself, or worse paid to have someone do it, that could be the source of the noise! My rule since messing with cars for 60 years is “always look at the last thing you touched!”
Often something not tight etc., etc.If a dealer changed the filter they did not connect something correctly. The rubber sleeve and clamps at the throttle body would be the first thing to check!
That high pitched noise, IMO is caused by air traveling at the speed of sound leaking through a small hole. Much like a musical instrument! I have an Ultrasonic Leak Detector used to check indusrial gas or compressed air leaks from pipeline connections, etc. It amplifies the sound and for frequencies above audible, lowers that frequency so they can be heard though ear phones attached to the unit. Can hear from 10 to 20 feet away. As you get closer it gets louder. However the hose approach should work in your case.
Last edited by JerryU; Dec 17, 2017 at 06:28 AM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
a.) it's coming from the throttle body area, and
b.) it may really drop into the range of "normal"
Jerry's procedure is a good one, try it out. I'm confident you won't do anything to screw up your warranty, and you will definitely learn more about your engine.
HTH, and have a good one,
Mike
My c5 engine spun up much faster being a built motor with a light clutch that was tuned with the throttle setup to be much more direct. I recall being sure when I putzed with this it was a function of the throttle lag inherent in the stock c7 system. Which means its possible it may change with driving modes, but once I trusted the car wouldn't die when the revs dropped below 900 rpm, which I was conditioned to with my c5, I really don't have a reason to apply throttle in that manner anymore.





https://photos.app.goo.gl/ICA7uwJEr2pP4Vsb2

Good luck!

Soler_Mod_TB.pdf (netwelding.com)
Last edited by JerryU; Dec 16, 2021 at 10:23 AM.













