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Old Sep 17, 2017 | 06:02 PM
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Default Brake pad help

I put Carbotech 1521 pads on my Z51 this weekend, then did the bedding process. When driving home, I noticed a small sound coming from the front wheels, kind of a ta-ding, ta-ding sort of thing. I'm thinking wear indicators? Does it matter if the indicators on the front pads go inboard or outboard? Anything else I could check for producing this sound? Putting the new pads on was not too hard, so I'm not sure where I went wrong.
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Old Sep 18, 2017 | 05:50 PM
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Nobody has any experience or advice for this?
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Old Sep 18, 2017 | 06:25 PM
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This is the second time in a few days I've read about the wear indicator. When I switched out my pads I didn't notice this. Is it only on certain models.

Sorry I can't help....but free bump to the top.
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Old Sep 19, 2017 | 12:59 AM
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I had the dealer put on the carbotechs for me. They told me that the wear indicators aren't supposed to go on this pad. I asked them how will I know when I need new pads, and they told me to just look at it (which you can easily see the pad thickness on all 4 tires). So maybe you just have to take them off.

I'd recommend calling carbotech directly (ctbrakes.com). They are very personable and happy to answer any questions you have. They'll give you the correct answer.
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Old Sep 19, 2017 | 07:54 AM
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I recently put Carbotech pads on my Grand Sport. They had no "wear indicators" on them. I was also told that Carbotech pads do not need to be bedded. I put them on and drove the car the way I normally do with no noise or noticeable difference from the OEM pads, except less brake dust.
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Old Sep 19, 2017 | 08:36 AM
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^^^

Yep, my Grant Sport Carbotech 1521s did not have those mechanical "wear indicators" but my 2014 Z51 Carbotech pads did! (OP has a Z51.) Frankly hard for me to see where they could be hitting. OP had sent a PM and I responded. I agree, should be looking at the pads for wear when wheels are removed for any reason, expect they will last many years!

Carbotech used to have a moderate bedding procedure but apparently found some where using the very aggressive procedure outlined in the Owner's Manual for tracking, i.e. a multiple steps with very hard stops (0.8 "g") from 60 to 15 mph, 25 times with 1 minute cool down between! You can search "burnishing" (GM's word for bedding) in the manual. Fine for the OEM Z51, GS, Z06 pads if on a race track!

I use an old procedure they recommended for 1521s, 5 or 6 aggressive stops from 60 mph to 30. Easy to do if you have a safe location. May not have been needed but I like depositing some pad material quickly and uniformly on the rotors.

Last edited by JerryU; Sep 19, 2017 at 08:42 AM.
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 12:16 PM
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Default brake pads

did the same thing with my new GS as soon as got it home from the dealer,after replacing the OEM pads with the Carbo techs the car developed a clicking noise in the front wheels,returned the car to the dealer and they tried to correct the problem unsucsessfully,after a few months i found out GM has a service bullitin out about the clicking noise,took t back to the dealer told them about the bullitin and they finally fixed it properly
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 01:08 PM
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Originally Posted by catnaround
did the same thing with my new GS as soon as got it home from the dealer,after replacing the OEM pads with the Carbo techs the car developed a clicking noise in the front wheels,returned the car to the dealer and they tried to correct the problem unsucsessfully,after a few months i found out GM has a service bullitin out about the clicking noise,took t back to the dealer told them about the bullitin and they finally fixed it properly
What was causing the clicking noise? Is it something that can be fixed at home?
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 01:21 PM
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check bulletin #Pl1498B:clicking noise from front and/or rear wheels-Aug23,2016
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 02:37 PM
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Originally Posted by catnaround
check bulletin #Pl1498B:clicking noise from front and/or rear wheels-Aug23,2016
Thanks for the information. Now is there anyone that can provide the Service Bulletin itself? I could not find a site that would outline the procedure or even show the bulletin itself. Thanks!
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 02:45 PM
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try http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...2016-1301.html
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 03:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Apocolips
Thanks for the information. Now is there anyone that can provide the Service Bulletin itself? I could not find a site that would outline the procedure or even show the bulletin itself. Thanks!
Tried that number and it did not pop up!

But I remember the issue and several responses with this "clicking" issue unrelated to brakes!

The proper bulletine states: remove the wheel clean the wheel rotor surface where they contact and re-torque!

Could well be the OP's issue! Need to torque in a chris-cross patent in at least to steps, i.e one at 80 ft-lbs then repeat with 100 ft-lbs. Need a torque wrench. Someone reported that the inexpensive one from Harbor Freight came very close in a calibration test!

Last edited by JerryU; Sep 20, 2017 at 03:16 PM.
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by catnaround
Thanks but I get an "Access Denied" screen. I don't know why they make it so hard to get a copy of a service bulletin.
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Old Sep 20, 2017 | 06:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Apocolips
Thanks but I get an "Access Denied" screen. I don't know why they make it so hard to get a copy of a service bulletin.
Found this. It is what I recalled:

Condition/Concern
Some customers may comment on a clicking noise emanating from either the front or rear wheels location. This condition may be more predominate at low speeds (10-20 mph or 16-32 km/h) during full wheel lock turns on dry clean pavement. The clicking noise is generally noted as approximately 1 to 4 clicks per wheel revolution.

This may be caused by interaction between the wheel mounting face and the wheel mounting surface on the brake rotor.


Recommendation/Instructions

Important: Do NOT replace the wheels or brake rotors for this condition.

If you encounter a vehicle with the above concern, follow the procedure below.

 1. Remove all four of the wheels. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in SI.
 2. Clean all four of the wheels mounting surface as follows.
◦Using a clean cloth dampened with approved brake cleaner (ex. Part number 19287401 (U.S.), 88901247 (Canada)), wipe the mounting surface of the wheel(s) removing any residual grey or black material that has accumulated on the wheel mounting surface.
Note: All cleaning must be done by hand. Do NOT use pneumatic or power tools.

 3. Clean the wheel mounting surface of the brake rotors, or sometimes referred to as the brake rotor top hats, as follows.
◦Using a clean cloth dampened with approved brake cleaner (ex. Part number 19287401 (U.S.), 88901247 (Canada)) wipe the wheels mounting surface of the rotor (brake rotor top hat) removing any residual grey or black material that has accumulated on the rotors.
Note: During the cleaning process, be sure to clean the rotor near the wheel pilot at the center of the rotor.

Note: All cleaning must be done by hand. Do NOT use pneumatic or power tools.

 4. Reinstall all four of the wheels using the original wheel nuts and torque specifications. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in SI.
•Corvette 140 Y (103 lb ft)

Important: Be sure wheels and rotors are thoroughly dry prior to installation.



ANOTHER POST SAID THIS WAS THE SOLUTION!

"This is a very common problem on most high performance sports cars. The fix is very, very simple! It almost always comes from the front brakes..not rear.

Pull the front brake pads out (very simple). Take super thick axle grease and spread a thin layer on the back of your brake pad. If the pad has "anti-squeak" shims, spread grease on both sides of it. The noise comes from the back of the pad rubbing against the caliper pressure point (metal to metal) under very high stress conditions. The rotors "float" so they shift a tiny bit when the brakes are applied. The grease eliminates the "clicking" noise this creates. Yes, the clicking noise as well as squeaks.

Do not be concerned about grease getting on your pads. It doesn't happen. Use a thick grease and thin layer.

I have done this on my Expedition, C6, Ferrari 360 and Lambo Gallardo all with 100% success!"


I have never had the problem but for the 3 sets of pads I have installed on C7s, one set on my 2014 Z51 and 2 on my Grand Sport, the last Carbotech 1521s, I have used a high temp ceramic brake Lub material on the backs of all pads. On the 2014 I used the GM recommended lub on the sides where they say it should be applied. In the last two installs on my Grand Sport used it both on the sides and back. Have not heard a sound. The 2014 I had for ~3 years and never a peep! I would use this high temp brake lub. It's good to 2800F! Axle grease is not! C7 rotors don't float but the issue is the same!


Last edited by JerryU; Sep 20, 2017 at 07:05 PM.
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 07:42 AM
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Thanks, I appreciate the research on your part. When I replaced my pads I cleaned everything very thoroughly and applied Permatex to the back and sides of the new pads. So far the pads operate and sound just fine. Thanks again!
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Old Sep 21, 2017 | 07:55 AM
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^^^

Thanks. Google is amazing! It finds posts on forums faster than the forum search! Just have to put in the correct words and some in quotes if desired to limit what's found.

Funny, on my website found the built in search function was about useless! I eliminated it and added a site index I make myself. I even have a separate index that is coded so only I can find that content, which doesn't relate to the business!

If I add something to a page, google finds it in a day or so! To search, I just put in the appropriate words and if common, my website URL name! It pops up. Their (and other) "spiders" are crawling the web 24/7 looking for new contect!

Last edited by JerryU; Sep 21, 2017 at 08:02 AM.
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