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Air filter replacement tip

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Old Oct 31, 2017 | 10:30 PM
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Default Air filter replacement tip

It's a bit crazy how much you have to remove just to replace the air filter, but even when you get the air intake out of the way, it is still not easy to get the new filter back into the box.

I have seen a video where the whole box was removed and the filter installed out of the car, but I was afraid if I removed the whole box, including the part that attaches to the fender, I would not be able to get the whole assembly back in without risking damage to the coolant line, so I just removed the mounting bolts and left the rear of the box in place.

Even with the rear of the box loose, it was a struggle to get the front of the box on with it in the car, but I discovered that a soap solution, or some other lubricant on the filter seal, made the end cover slide right into place. Dry, it was almost impossible to get the cover back on.

Wetting the rubber boots on the intake with the soap solution also made them slip back on a lot easier.

With intake out of the way....




Everything back together...



Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Oct 31, 2017 at 10:33 PM.
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Nov 1, 2017, 10:36 PM
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I simply chalk up removing the air filter to...it's a high performance sports car.

THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE AIR FILTER BOX!

The key to all this is that everything pops off quite easily, if you are having difficultly in pulling anything apart or putting it back together, your doing something wrong.

1. Remove the hood extractor duct to gain access they are four 7mm bolts, then it just pulls out quite easily. Note: the screws come out so be careful not to drop them.
2. Remove throttle body custom painted throttle cover (no need to remove the holding clamp)

2. Remove the electrical connector (5) from the sensor.
- to remove mass airflow sensor plug, pull up on the RED clip, then squeeze the button and it comes off easily see video if you don't remember)
3. Carefully lift the surge tank coolant hose (1) from both hose retainers (3) and position the hose to be able to remove the screws securing the air cleaner/filter endcap.
4. Loosen the air duct clamp (4) at the air cleaner/filter housing endcap and move the duct out of the way.
5. Next loosen the throttle body screw clamp so you can disconnect the throttle body air duct. Removing this ducting makes it much easier to reinstall the airbox/filter cover.
6. Remove the two screws (2)
1. un-screw with a TORX, the two top screws from the airbox (where the air filter is housed, tilt back and pull out.
2. It may be easier to use a socket wrench with flexible shaft to loosen these screws.

6. Turn the air cleaner/filter endcap downward at the top and disengage the lower endcap mounting tabs from the lower retention hinge features.
7. Inspect or replace the air cleaner/filter.

Care must be taken when putting the air cleaner box back together, the bottom goes in first, tilt it on an angle so the flanges slid into the endcaps, if you do it right, the airbox goes back in place fairly easy, do need force it at all.
1. Reverse Steps to replace the air cleaner/filter endcap.
2. Replace the extractor hood duct. See above. 

Old Oct 31, 2017 | 11:03 PM
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Good tip, but I found that removing the air box makes the task much easier.
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Old Nov 1, 2017 | 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by sTz
Good tip, but I found that removing the air box makes the task much easier.
I saw a video that showed the whole air box out of the car, but they never really show how they were able to get it out without putting too much flex in the coolant line that runs over the box, so I did not risk it.

It worked out to just loosen the mounts on the box, now that I know how to slip the filter in easily.
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Old Nov 1, 2017 | 04:19 PM
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Thanks for the tip Tex. It doesn't make much sense that GM would make it so difficult, but I would hate to think I had to pay a dealer to change my air filter.
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Old Nov 1, 2017 | 05:01 PM
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thanks for the tip!!! I'm about to do it this week end so its a timely tip.
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Old Nov 1, 2017 | 07:15 PM
  #6  
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Another thing people fail to mention is it is not obvious how to remove the air box. There is a bolt on each end that you just remove, and the rear of the box also has a rubber grommet. At first I thought the box just slipped off the grommet, but it turns out the grommet slips off a stud that stays mounted to the fender.
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Old Nov 1, 2017 | 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by Rebel Yell
Thanks for the tip Tex. It doesn't make much sense that GM would make it so difficult, but I would hate to think I had to pay a dealer to change my air filter.
To the dealer I go, to replace the stk with a K & N. I'm not going to mess with it... So I'll pay the $$$.
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Old Nov 1, 2017 | 08:45 PM
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Originally Posted by GRUNIE
To the dealer I go, to replace the stk with a K & N. I'm not going to mess with it... So I'll pay the $$$.
I trade mine in before I need an air filter...lol
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Old Nov 1, 2017 | 10:29 PM
  #9  
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Originally Posted by GRUNIE
To the dealer I go, to replace the stk with a K & N. I'm not going to mess with it... So I'll pay the $$$.
From what I have seen, the non-paper aftermarket filters get dirty faster and quickly lose any marginal gains they may have. You will be paying to have the filter changed/cleaned more often.
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Old Nov 1, 2017 | 10:36 PM
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I simply chalk up removing the air filter to...it's a high performance sports car.

THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE AIR FILTER BOX!

The key to all this is that everything pops off quite easily, if you are having difficultly in pulling anything apart or putting it back together, your doing something wrong.

1. Remove the hood extractor duct to gain access they are four 7mm bolts, then it just pulls out quite easily. Note: the screws come out so be careful not to drop them.
2. Remove throttle body custom painted throttle cover (no need to remove the holding clamp)

2. Remove the electrical connector (5) from the sensor.
- to remove mass airflow sensor plug, pull up on the RED clip, then squeeze the button and it comes off easily see video if you don't remember)
3. Carefully lift the surge tank coolant hose (1) from both hose retainers (3) and position the hose to be able to remove the screws securing the air cleaner/filter endcap.
4. Loosen the air duct clamp (4) at the air cleaner/filter housing endcap and move the duct out of the way.
5. Next loosen the throttle body screw clamp so you can disconnect the throttle body air duct. Removing this ducting makes it much easier to reinstall the airbox/filter cover.
6. Remove the two screws (2)
1. un-screw with a TORX, the two top screws from the airbox (where the air filter is housed, tilt back and pull out.
2. It may be easier to use a socket wrench with flexible shaft to loosen these screws.

6. Turn the air cleaner/filter endcap downward at the top and disengage the lower endcap mounting tabs from the lower retention hinge features.
7. Inspect or replace the air cleaner/filter.

Care must be taken when putting the air cleaner box back together, the bottom goes in first, tilt it on an angle so the flanges slid into the endcaps, if you do it right, the airbox goes back in place fairly easy, do need force it at all.
1. Reverse Steps to replace the air cleaner/filter endcap.
2. Replace the extractor hood duct. See above. 


Last edited by Maxie2U; Nov 1, 2017 at 10:39 PM.
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Old Nov 1, 2017 | 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxie2U
I simply chalk up removing the air filter to...it's a high performance sports car.

THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE AIR FILTER BOX!

The key to all this is that everything pops off quite easily, if you are having difficultly in pulling anything apart or putting it back together, your doing something wrong.

1. Remove the hood extractor duct to gain access they are four 7mm bolts, then it just pulls out quite easily. Note: the screws come out so be careful not to drop them.
2. Remove throttle body custom painted throttle cover (no need to remove the holding clamp)

2. Remove the electrical connector (5) from the sensor.
- to remove mass airflow sensor plug, pull up on the RED clip, then squeeze the button and it comes off easily see video if you don't remember)
3. Carefully lift the surge tank coolant hose (1) from both hose retainers (3) and position the hose to be able to remove the screws securing the air cleaner/filter endcap.
4. Loosen the air duct clamp (4) at the air cleaner/filter housing endcap and move the duct out of the way.
5. Next loosen the throttle body screw clamp so you can disconnect the throttle body air duct. Removing this ducting makes it much easier to reinstall the airbox/filter cover.
6. Remove the two screws (2)
1. un-screw with a TORX, the two top screws from the airbox (where the air filter is housed, tilt back and pull out.
2. It may be easier to use a socket wrench with flexible shaft to loosen these screws.

6. Turn the air cleaner/filter endcap downward at the top and disengage the lower endcap mounting tabs from the lower retention hinge features.
7. Inspect or replace the air cleaner/filter.

Care must be taken when putting the air cleaner box back together, the bottom goes in first, tilt it on an angle so the flanges slid into the endcaps, if you do it right, the airbox goes back in place fairly easy, do need force it at all.
1. Reverse Steps to replace the air cleaner/filter endcap.
2. Replace the extractor hood duct. See above. 

Too bad you're so far north of me, or I'd pay you to do mine. I'd even bring the
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Old Nov 1, 2017 | 11:58 PM
  #12  
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Put a K&N in mine. Easy job, no issues
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 10:45 AM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by Maxie2U
I simply chalk up removing the air filter to...it's a high performance sports car.

THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE AIR FILTER BOX!


7. Inspect or replace the air cleaner/filter.

Care must be taken when putting the air cleaner box back together, the bottom goes in first, tilt it on an angle so the flanges slid into the endcaps, if you do it right, the airbox goes back in place fairly easy, do need force it at all.
1. Reverse Steps to replace the air cleaner/filter endcap.
2. Replace the extractor hood duct. See above. 

I agree with you that it is not difficult, all the way down to step 7.
I found that trying to install the new filter with the non-compressed rubber seal, it was almost impossible to get the cover to slip back on with the surfaces dry... So I loosened the back mounts of the air box just to get some working room to get the tabs back in the housing...
still difficult, until I lubricated the seal and inside of the box with soap solution... it was amazing how much difference that made....then the seals easily slipped back into the grooves in the housing without having to over stress the coolant line. Easy, but glad I don't have to do it but every 3 or 4 years.

I also agree that removing the whole box is a mistake... I could not see how to get the whole assembly back in with the coolant line in place and not risking flexing it too far.

Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Nov 2, 2017 at 10:49 AM.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by GRUNIE
Too bad you're so far north of me, or I'd pay you to do mine. I'd even bring the
I can send you the entire procedure which includes the pictures/illustrations of each step. PM me your email address.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0
I agree with you that it is not difficult, all the way down to step 7.
I found that trying to install the new filter with the non-compressed rubber seal, it was almost impossible to get the cover to slip back on with the surfaces dry... So I loosened the back mounts of the air box just to get some working room to get the tabs back in the housing...
still difficult, until I lubricated the seal and inside of the box with soap solution... it was amazing how much difference that made....then the seals easily slipped back into the grooves in the housing without having to over stress the coolant line. Easy, but glad I don't have to do it but every 3 or 4 years.

I also agree that removing the whole box is a mistake... I could not see how to get the whole assembly back in with the coolant line in place and not risking flexing it too far.
By disconnecting the throttle body air duct (step#5) its easy to reinstall the airbox/filter cover. You have clear access to put the tabs into the slots there was no need lubricated the seal or inside of the box with soap solution. It's then just like any other airbox at that point.

Last edited by Maxie2U; Nov 2, 2017 at 12:57 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 05:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Maxie2U
By disconnecting the throttle body air duct (step#5) its easy to reinstall the airbox/filter cover. (no it is not) You have clear access to put the tabs into the slots there was no need lubricated the seal or inside of the box with soap solution. It's then just like any other airbox at that point.
If you look at my first photo, you can see I have everything out of the way to remove the air box cover... cover came off OK, filter came out and new one went back in OK but the new seal was just enough larger that it would not slip back into place on the cover...

I have had the same problem on other cars where the new seal had so much friction that the seal could not slide back into the proper grooves to get the tabs seated....and the cover back in place....

If you have actually done this, I guess you were lucky that everything went back together easily, but I bet that is not the normal experience. It is often difficult to get the cover back on, and THAT is what has prompted people to remove the whole box.
Not knowing the procedure is not the problem... it is actually getting it back together...

Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Nov 2, 2017 at 05:27 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 05:59 PM
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This guy got the original air box out and installed a cold air intake, but he was flexing the coolant lines way more than I was willing to do....
I guess he got it done without damaging the lines, but I would rather not risk it...





He was able to get the factory box out by mainly flexing the rubber hose instead of the plastic coolant line, but you can get the air box cover off without over flexing either hose



Have to admit, this is a good idea....a clear window in the box to see if filter needs to be replaced without having to open the box...


Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Nov 2, 2017 at 06:11 PM.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0
This guy got the original air box out and installed a cold air intake, but he was flexing the coolant lines way more than I was willing to do....
I guess he got it done without damaging the lines, but I would rather not risk it...





He was able to get the factory box out by mainly flexing the rubber hose instead of the plastic coolant line, but you can get the air box cover off without over flexing either hose



Have to admit, this is a good idea....a clear window in the box to see if filter needs to be replaced without having to open the box...

I saw this setup on a Corvette last weekend at the car show. I really like the window too. Great idea.
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Old Nov 2, 2017 | 11:40 PM
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As my dearly departed mum would say in such situations, just trade off the car when the filter needs changed!
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Old Nov 3, 2017 | 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0
If you look at my first photo, you can see I have everything out of the way to remove the air box cover... cover came off OK, filter came out and new one went back in OK but the new seal was just enough larger that it would not slip back into place on the cover...

I have had the same problem on other cars where the new seal had so much friction that the seal could not slide back into the proper grooves to get the tabs seated....and the cover back in place....

If you have actually done this, I guess you were lucky that everything went back together easily, but I bet that is not the normal experience. It is often difficult to get the cover back on, and THAT is what has prompted people to remove the whole box.
Not knowing the procedure is not the problem... it is actually getting it back together...
Yes, I have actually changed my air filter and had NO PROBLEM getting the cover back on. The key is to make sure the flanges slide fully into the endcaps, if you do it right, the airbox goes back in place easily. On my first attempt I did not have the flanges fully into the endcaps this caused binding and alignment problems with the gasket.
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