Air filter replacement tip
I have seen a video where the whole box was removed and the filter installed out of the car, but I was afraid if I removed the whole box, including the part that attaches to the fender, I would not be able to get the whole assembly back in without risking damage to the coolant line, so I just removed the mounting bolts and left the rear of the box in place.
Even with the rear of the box loose, it was a struggle to get the front of the box on with it in the car, but I discovered that a soap solution, or some other lubricant on the filter seal, made the end cover slide right into place. Dry, it was almost impossible to get the cover back on.
Wetting the rubber boots on the intake with the soap solution also made them slip back on a lot easier.
With intake out of the way....
Everything back together...
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Oct 31, 2017 at 10:33 PM.
Popular Reply
THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE AIR FILTER BOX!
The key to all this is that everything pops off quite easily, if you are having difficultly in pulling anything apart or putting it back together, your doing something wrong.
1. Remove the hood extractor duct to gain access they are four 7mm bolts, then it just pulls out quite easily. Note: the screws come out so be careful not to drop them.
2. Remove throttle body custom painted throttle cover (no need to remove the holding clamp)
2. Remove the electrical connector (5) from the sensor.
- to remove mass airflow sensor plug, pull up on the RED clip, then squeeze the button and it comes off easily see video if you don't remember)
3. Carefully lift the surge tank coolant hose (1) from both hose retainers (3) and position the hose to be able to remove the screws securing the air cleaner/filter endcap.
4. Loosen the air duct clamp (4) at the air cleaner/filter housing endcap and move the duct out of the way.
5. Next loosen the throttle body screw clamp so you can disconnect the throttle body air duct. Removing this ducting makes it much easier to reinstall the airbox/filter cover.
6. Remove the two screws (2)
1. un-screw with a TORX, the two top screws from the airbox (where the air filter is housed, tilt back and pull out.
2. It may be easier to use a socket wrench with flexible shaft to loosen these screws.
6. Turn the air cleaner/filter endcap downward at the top and disengage the lower endcap mounting tabs from the lower retention hinge features.
7. Inspect or replace the air cleaner/filter.
Care must be taken when putting the air cleaner box back together, the bottom goes in first, tilt it on an angle so the flanges slid into the endcaps, if you do it right, the airbox goes back in place fairly easy, do need force it at all.
1. Reverse Steps to replace the air cleaner/filter endcap.
2. Replace the extractor hood duct. See above.
It worked out to just loosen the mounts on the box, now that I know how to slip the filter in easily.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE AIR FILTER BOX!
The key to all this is that everything pops off quite easily, if you are having difficultly in pulling anything apart or putting it back together, your doing something wrong.
1. Remove the hood extractor duct to gain access they are four 7mm bolts, then it just pulls out quite easily. Note: the screws come out so be careful not to drop them.
2. Remove throttle body custom painted throttle cover (no need to remove the holding clamp)
2. Remove the electrical connector (5) from the sensor.
- to remove mass airflow sensor plug, pull up on the RED clip, then squeeze the button and it comes off easily see video if you don't remember)
3. Carefully lift the surge tank coolant hose (1) from both hose retainers (3) and position the hose to be able to remove the screws securing the air cleaner/filter endcap.
4. Loosen the air duct clamp (4) at the air cleaner/filter housing endcap and move the duct out of the way.
5. Next loosen the throttle body screw clamp so you can disconnect the throttle body air duct. Removing this ducting makes it much easier to reinstall the airbox/filter cover.
6. Remove the two screws (2)
1. un-screw with a TORX, the two top screws from the airbox (where the air filter is housed, tilt back and pull out.
2. It may be easier to use a socket wrench with flexible shaft to loosen these screws.
6. Turn the air cleaner/filter endcap downward at the top and disengage the lower endcap mounting tabs from the lower retention hinge features.
7. Inspect or replace the air cleaner/filter.
Care must be taken when putting the air cleaner box back together, the bottom goes in first, tilt it on an angle so the flanges slid into the endcaps, if you do it right, the airbox goes back in place fairly easy, do need force it at all.
1. Reverse Steps to replace the air cleaner/filter endcap.
2. Replace the extractor hood duct. See above.
Last edited by Maxie2U; Nov 1, 2017 at 10:39 PM.
THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE AIR FILTER BOX!
The key to all this is that everything pops off quite easily, if you are having difficultly in pulling anything apart or putting it back together, your doing something wrong.
1. Remove the hood extractor duct to gain access they are four 7mm bolts, then it just pulls out quite easily. Note: the screws come out so be careful not to drop them.
2. Remove throttle body custom painted throttle cover (no need to remove the holding clamp)
2. Remove the electrical connector (5) from the sensor.
- to remove mass airflow sensor plug, pull up on the RED clip, then squeeze the button and it comes off easily see video if you don't remember)
3. Carefully lift the surge tank coolant hose (1) from both hose retainers (3) and position the hose to be able to remove the screws securing the air cleaner/filter endcap.
4. Loosen the air duct clamp (4) at the air cleaner/filter housing endcap and move the duct out of the way.
5. Next loosen the throttle body screw clamp so you can disconnect the throttle body air duct. Removing this ducting makes it much easier to reinstall the airbox/filter cover.
6. Remove the two screws (2)
1. un-screw with a TORX, the two top screws from the airbox (where the air filter is housed, tilt back and pull out.
2. It may be easier to use a socket wrench with flexible shaft to loosen these screws.
6. Turn the air cleaner/filter endcap downward at the top and disengage the lower endcap mounting tabs from the lower retention hinge features.
7. Inspect or replace the air cleaner/filter.
Care must be taken when putting the air cleaner box back together, the bottom goes in first, tilt it on an angle so the flanges slid into the endcaps, if you do it right, the airbox goes back in place fairly easy, do need force it at all.
1. Reverse Steps to replace the air cleaner/filter endcap.
2. Replace the extractor hood duct. See above.
THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE ENTIRE AIR FILTER BOX!
7. Inspect or replace the air cleaner/filter.
Care must be taken when putting the air cleaner box back together, the bottom goes in first, tilt it on an angle so the flanges slid into the endcaps, if you do it right, the airbox goes back in place fairly easy, do need force it at all.
1. Reverse Steps to replace the air cleaner/filter endcap.
2. Replace the extractor hood duct. See above.
I found that trying to install the new filter with the non-compressed rubber seal, it was almost impossible to get the cover to slip back on with the surfaces dry... So I loosened the back mounts of the air box just to get some working room to get the tabs back in the housing...
still difficult, until I lubricated the seal and inside of the box with soap solution... it was amazing how much difference that made....then the seals easily slipped back into the grooves in the housing without having to over stress the coolant line. Easy, but glad I don't have to do it but every 3 or 4 years.

I also agree that removing the whole box is a mistake... I could not see how to get the whole assembly back in with the coolant line in place and not risking flexing it too far.
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Nov 2, 2017 at 10:49 AM.
I found that trying to install the new filter with the non-compressed rubber seal, it was almost impossible to get the cover to slip back on with the surfaces dry... So I loosened the back mounts of the air box just to get some working room to get the tabs back in the housing...
still difficult, until I lubricated the seal and inside of the box with soap solution... it was amazing how much difference that made....then the seals easily slipped back into the grooves in the housing without having to over stress the coolant line. Easy, but glad I don't have to do it but every 3 or 4 years.

I also agree that removing the whole box is a mistake... I could not see how to get the whole assembly back in with the coolant line in place and not risking flexing it too far.
Last edited by Maxie2U; Nov 2, 2017 at 12:57 PM.
I have had the same problem on other cars where the new seal had so much friction that the seal could not slide back into the proper grooves to get the tabs seated....and the cover back in place....
If you have actually done this, I guess you were lucky that everything went back together easily, but I bet that is not the normal experience. It is often difficult to get the cover back on, and THAT is what has prompted people to remove the whole box.
Not knowing the procedure is not the problem... it is actually getting it back together...
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Nov 2, 2017 at 05:27 PM.
I guess he got it done without damaging the lines, but I would rather not risk it...
He was able to get the factory box out by mainly flexing the rubber hose instead of the plastic coolant line, but you can get the air box cover off without over flexing either hose
Have to admit, this is a good idea....a clear window in the box to see if filter needs to be replaced without having to open the box...
Last edited by TEXHAWK0; Nov 2, 2017 at 06:11 PM.
I guess he got it done without damaging the lines, but I would rather not risk it...
He was able to get the factory box out by mainly flexing the rubber hose instead of the plastic coolant line, but you can get the air box cover off without over flexing either hose
Have to admit, this is a good idea....a clear window in the box to see if filter needs to be replaced without having to open the box...
I have had the same problem on other cars where the new seal had so much friction that the seal could not slide back into the proper grooves to get the tabs seated....and the cover back in place....
If you have actually done this, I guess you were lucky that everything went back together easily, but I bet that is not the normal experience. It is often difficult to get the cover back on, and THAT is what has prompted people to remove the whole box.
Not knowing the procedure is not the problem... it is actually getting it back together...

















