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Your doors are closed and the windows are up. When you close your trunk, do you have to push down on it to get the 'pull it shut' feature to engage?
I do. But when the windows or doors are open, I do not. I drop the trunk lid and the mechanism engages to pull the lid all the way down. Is this behavior normal or do I need to adjust something?
its logical.... with the windows open there is no resistance or back pressure and the hatch travels down far enough to engage the switch with no effort.... with the windows up, as the hatch closes, it builds pressure and does not freely fall down enough with out a push to trigger the switch.... simple as 123....
If we can't dazzle with brilliance we should baffle with BS
Last edited by dbintegrity; Dec 4, 2017 at 10:53 PM.
I just slam the trunk down, but I wouldn't do that if it was the rear hatch.
Even the vert from 2016 and newer have the electronic mech to pull the trunk closed. No slamming any more. I know my 2014 vert was always hard to close.
I have a '16. It took several attempts, over time, but I have no problem closing the hatch. With the windows up.
Grab the handle on the bottom side, give it the right downward effort, which is on the strong side, and latches to the closing mechanism with no problem. Again, took some time to adjust to the right effort.
No more dirty paw smudges on the exterior side of the hatch!
I was thinking maybe the bumpers on the deck lid are adjusted too long so that the weight of the lid dropping with windows and doors shut does not exert enough force to close the lid far enough to engage to the pull down mechanism. If there is a consensus that the lid requires a gentle push down after it’s been dropped (when windows and doors are closed) to engage the pull down mechanism, I don’t want to start monkeying with the positioning of the bumpers.
Thanks WMark, I’ve not tried ‘throwing’ the lid down when the windows are closed, rather just ‘dropping’ it.
Your description of "throwing" it down better describes what I was trying to say. At first I worried I was slamming it shut and that might not be good in the long term. Believe me, as hard as you throw it, there is still enough damping to prevent any future issues.
Hard on the car you can see the roof hinges bulge when you slam it
with both doors and windows closed not the proper way!
On my 2015 with no hatch pull down I open the door if the window is not already down and just release the hatch from 9 inches or so and it closes nicely.
On my 2017 I lower the hatch till it contacts the latch it automatically
closes.
Hard on the car you can see the roof hinges bulge when you slam it with both doors and windows closed not the proper way!
On my 2015 with no hatch pull down I open the door if the window is not already down and just release the hatch from 9 inches or so and it closes nicely.
On my 2017 I lower the hatch till it contacts the latch it automatically
closes.
I just slam the trunk down, but I wouldn't do that if it was the rear hatch.
Probably not a good idea to do that, if your very us new enough to have the self closing feature. My 2017 very has the self close feature engage, once you push it down firmly to the first click. The mechanism takes over with a firm seal/closure.
St. Jude Donor '05-'06-'07-'08-'09, '14-'15-'16-'17-'18
Originally Posted by WMark
I have a '16. It took several attempts, over time, but I have no problem closing the hatch. With the windows up.
Grab the handle on the bottom side, give it the right downward effort, which is on the strong side, and latches to the closing mechanism with no problem. Again, took some time to adjust to the right effort.
No more dirty paw smudges on the exterior side of the hatch!
I do the same with my ‘16...exact same experience.
That's all well and good for those of you who have the pull-down mechanism.
After more than 300,000 miles of slamming the the trunk lid, (C6 and C7), I'm not going to worry about it now.
The OP asked about a trunk, and that is what I reported.
If he is talking about a hatch, if it has the pull-down mechanism (as my Z06 had), better to take a gentler approach. Evidently the Vert has the pull-down now, so if the car has the pull-down, yes no slamming ( I was unaware of the new pull down on the trunk)
Let's get the terminology straight: Convertible=trunk. Coupe=hatch.
p.s. I like the idea of a pull down on the trunk. Took them long enough.
I quit slamming my trunk lids 25 years ago. Even without the auto-generated lid closure feature, many (not all) trunk lids simply need a firm push of the hand or forearm to engage the click, locking them down. Not sure if the non-auto, trunk closure MY Cs will clasp shut w/o the swift slam.
Convertible Cs have Trunks
Coupe Cs, are actually Hatchbacks - there was the C5 ZO6es were actual Coupes, with trunks.
.
Last edited by Skid Row Joe; Dec 6, 2017 at 12:26 PM.
I shopped around a provisional patent wherein when the hatch opens, both doors crack their window 1/2". When the hatch closes, the windows close back up. Works great, no pull-down mechanisms required.
Beats all these venting and flap solutions. But no takers!
After spending 3 1/2 years with my 2014 coupe needing a door or windows open, I got used that method of closing and latching. That is what I mostly do with my Grand Sport.
Typically when I need to get into the hatch and not getting into or leaving the car, I do use a light push to activate the motorized pull down. Therefore as I did for 3 1/2 years, I mostly leave my driver’s side door open and when standing behind it use my right hand and close the hatch with litttle force from the side and it latches!
I would not press to latch with my 2014 as the first time I tried I saw the bottom hatch frame bend excessively, so stopped. There were posts with folks who pressed in the center having paint crack and several where the bottom frame cracked from pushing!
Soon after I got my C7 in October 2013 there was a post that said they were told at Museum Delivery not to press in the center because of possible paint cracks but to push with 2 hands on the sides of the rear glass.
For some cars the “magic” memory wire activated vent worked as designed. Enough did not, so in 2016 they reverted back to what I had in my C6, a motorized pull down.
I shopped around a provisional patent wherein when the hatch opens, both doors crack their window 1/2". When the hatch closes, the windows close back up. Works great, no pull-down mechanisms required.
Beats all these venting and flap solutions. But no takers!
FWIW, when I was complaining for ~2 years about my memory wire activated vent not working, Tadge did answer a question at a Bash as I recall when someone asked about keeping the windows open until the hatch closed. He said there was a requirement that they could only stay open ~5 mm (perhaps a GM requirement) as they do now to get a better window to top seal. He said that avoids automatically closing possibly with a child’s fingers in the gap, etc.
In the one GM bulletin to dealers on how to check the vent closing system, it said to open both windows 3 inches and if the hatch then latches, tell the customer it’s latching as designed! Now 3 inches is enough to have most dogs, who are inside the car, stick there head out. When you close the hatch and the windows close-ouch!
I checked along with adjusting the latch as the Bulletin also recommended and it took about 3 inches to have my 2014 latch. I did buy one of the first Window Valets when they were available. That opens and closes the windows fully using the FOB. Worked and is useful in the summer to open the windows in a hot car before entering.