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I'm a new C7 owner (acquired a 2016 Z51 LT2 about two weeks ago). For the last few years I've spent most of my time working overseas, being gone from my home base in the US for months at a time. I learned the hard way with my 2001 coupe to disconnect the battery (at the battery) before putting it away and going out of the country for a long time. I had intended to have a cut-off switch installed on my current period back in the States, but instead ended up giving up the C5 and getting the C7.
Questions:
1. Are there any known issues with completely disconnecting power from the C7 battery and storing it for as much as three or four months?
2. Assuming disconnecting battery power is OK, are there any things I should know about restoring battery power when I come back to the States?
3. Has anyone installed a battery cut-off switch on the C7? I assume the right place to do this would be back at the battery in its compartment in the right-rear under the interior deck lid. Is this right? Any recommendations on the kind of switch or a particular manufacturer/model of switch?
Any help, information, tips or recommendations will be very greatly appreciated, because I have to go back overseas in just three weeks and need to address this right away!
I think you'll find most people who store their cars for long periods just use a battery tender.
Any # of battery tenders on the market will keep your battery charged up and it good condition.
Is your concern that a tender left unattended over a long period could malfunction causing damage or present a fire risk?
Have you considered taking the battery out while storing it and putting it inside with a battery tender?
I would remove the battery. We have lots of lighting storms in spring. summer and fall. If leaving for months would not want my Vette connected to a device on a power line!
Hopefully someone who installed a cut-off will post.
However looking at the Battery location, here are some pics from my PDF of an AGM install. Noted a spot one might fit one in the ground cable connection to the chassis but would be a lump in the carpet and to access would require removing the carpet. In addition, there is a neat clamp on the ground terminal that is clamped with a 10 mm nut. Might as well just remove the ground terminal.
Rather than add a cut-off might as well just use the nice post clamp with a 10 mm wrench.
Not easy to add a cut-off on the positive terminal as a large power board is attached.
Best option might be to remove the battery and put near a window, wherever and use an inexpensive solar powered batter charge, like this ~$15 unit from Harbor Freight.
There is enough room in the side panel (right next to the 12V port in the back right panel) to install a switch to cut the power for long periods, something like this would work great..
And if you go to a stereo install shop they have all the connectors and the correct wire to install this switch... 1/0 or 2/0 wire is not cheap but it will work great for this type of install...
Any # of battery tenders on the market will keep your battery charged up and it good condition.
Is your concern that a tender left unattended over a long period could malfunction causing damage or present a fire risk?
The physical situation where the car is stored is a little complicated (unreliable AC power and completely untended), but for all intents and purposes, that's it.
From the picture @jerryU posted, the positive terminal will be very hard to disconnect, as you see it is a plate that has several wires leaving it, one is for the starter and if I had to guess the other 2 100A wires are to the fuse blocks among other things..
I've used these on boats docked in locations "off grid." They work well. Unless your C7 is being stored in an underground bunker, they might work for you.
If you decide to go the cutoff switch route, try one of the ones designed to mount directly on a top post battery. Those are far simpler to install. amzn.com/B001N729FS is one example. That can go on the negative battery post, and the cable can be attached to the other side of the switch.
Last edited by C6_Racer_X; Dec 26, 2017 at 10:33 AM.
From the picture @jerryU posted, the positive terminal will be very hard to disconnect, as you see it is a plate that has several wires leaving it, one is for the starter and if I had to guess the other 2 100A wires are to the fuse blocks among other things..
As I read the schematic in the Service Manual there are several 100 amp fuses and fuse F6BA on the power board is 350 amps! Guess one could mess with the copper buss bar that carries all current but not simple!
Now if you were drag racing in a class that required an external operated cut-off that's one thing but much easier to unbolt the ground post for other needs. IMO.
I've used these on boats docked in locations "off grid." They work well. Unless your C7 is being stored in an underground bunker, they might work for you.
If you decide to go the cutoff switch route, try one of the ones designed to mount directly on a top post battery. Those are far simpler to install. amzn.com/B001N729FS is one example. That can go on the negative battery post, and the cable can be attached to the other side of the switch.
Not an underground bunker (although I'm pretty sure I'd like to have one). The solar-powered batter tender MIGHT be an option, but I have a question: Since the battery in the C& is in the interior of the car, what's the situation with running the wires from the charger? Presumably they have to pass through either the driver or passenger window, right? or is there a way to connect the trickle charging to the power circuitry without the windows or hatch being open?
I used to disconnect my C6 all the time with no issues. Just had to re-index the windows, and of course couldn’t get an inspection until I put some miles on the car as all the monitors get reset.
Not an underground bunker (although I'm pretty sure I'd like to have one). The solar-powered batter tender MIGHT be an option, but I have a question: Since the battery in the C& is in the interior of the car, what's the situation with running the wires from the charger? Presumably they have to pass through either the driver or passenger window, right? or is there a way to connect the trickle charging to the power circuitry without the windows or hatch being open?
Most folks close the hatch on the charger wires. The wires, especially for a very low solar amp trickle charger can be very small and will not create any issues closing the hatch on them.
As mentioned many close it on the Vette (or equivalent) charger with much larger power wires and no issue to seals or wires.
or is there a way to connect the trickle charging to the power circuitry without the windows or hatch being open?
Close the hatch. Or close the window.
The wires are small, the seals/gaskets on the hatch and window are soft and pliable. There should be no problem with closing the hatch on the wires for a battery tender.
If you're really worried about that, You could probably connect under the hood. I thought I'd find the picture for You, but when I downloaded a C7 owner's manual and looked, this is the first car I've seen with a battery inside and no "jumper post" under the hood. Some testing would be needed, checking for continuity to the positive battery post with the key off. Either the main power input stud on the under hood fuse block, or the charge output stud on the alternator could be used as the positive connection for the battery tender (provided there's continuity to the positive post with the key off, which I expect would be true for either of those locations), and the negative could just be clipped on any solid ground (a metal bracket on the engine, for example).
I'd just close the hatch on the wires if it was mine.
This is another pic from my PDF re an AGM battery replacement in my C7.
PS: Yep, lots of controversy about not having a post in the engine compartment on the C7 when the intro to the 2014 Owner's Manual said there was a location to jump start from the engine compartment. However all the pages it referenced said only jump from the battery! I sent PM's to the Chevy folks who monitor the forum (much more often in 2013/2014.) I asked where the post was when folks said it was the one in the pic below. However I wired my street rod and it's battery is in the far right rear. After calculated the needed wire size o carry tarting current, I used a wire 4 to 5 times the size of that going to the front fuse panel! First they said, "their sources" said the Owner's Manual was correct. Then I asked, if correct, where is the location. After several attempts the Chevy Monitor said they could not get an answer "from their sources!"
Issue resolved with subsequent year Owner's Manuals! The Owner's Manual ERROR in the 2014 into was eliminated. There is no location! Have found they will never say there is anything wrong with the Owner's Manual even when there is!
Pic of front fuse panel power input connection. It can be used for accessories or a charger BUT not recommended to jump start etc. Can connect positive power wire here with a ring terminal and ground on one of the chassis bolts with alligator clip. DON'T REMOVE THE NUT, ADD RING TERMINAL THEN ANOTHER NUT ON TOP.
This is another pic from my PDF re an AGM battery replacement in my C7.
PS: Yep, lots of controversy about not having a post in the engine compartment on the C7 when the intro to the 2014 Owner's Manual said there was a location to jump start from the engine compartment. However all the pages it referenced said only jump from the battery! I sent PM's to the Chevy folks who monitor the forum (much more often in 2013/2014.) I asked where the post was when folks said it was the one in the pic below. However I wired my street rod and it's battery in my sedan is in the far right rear. I used a wire 4 to 5 times the size of that going to the front fuse panel. First they said, "their sources" said the Owner's Manual was correct. Then I asked, if correct, where is the location. After several attempts the Chevy Monitor said they could not get an answer "from their sources!"
Issue resolved with subsequent year Owner's Manuals! The Owner's Manual ERROR in the 2014 into was eliminated. There is no location! Have found they will never say there is anything wrong with the Owner's Manual even when there is!
Pic of front fuse panel power input connection. It can be used for accessories or a charger BUT not recommended to jump start etc. Can connect positive power wire here with a ring terminal and ground on one of the chassis bolts with alligator clip. DON'T REMOVE THE NUT, ADD RING TERMINAL THEN ANOTHER NUT ON TOP.
That stud in the picture would probably work for a clip on connection for a battery tender or other battery charger (up to 20 or maybe 50 amps).
I wouldn't consider that for jumper cables to start the car, though.
That is definitely an alternate connection point for a battery tender, though, without having to dig for the battery.
That stud in the picture would probably work for a clip on connection for a battery tender or other battery charger (up to 20 or maybe 50 amps).
I wouldn't consider that for jumper cables to start the car, through.
That is definitely an alternate connection point for a battery tender, though, without having to dig for the battery.
But had many forum members telling me I was wrong to question it’s use for jump starting. They quoted the incorrect 2014 Owner’s Manual intro as proof. But then they also questioned my inability to latch the hatch without a door open only exhonorated when GM reverted to what I had in my C6 in 2016, a motorized pull down.
They overhyped the “magic memory wire activated vent” that did not work for all C7’s! Never said why, just switched after enough folks had paint crack in the lower hatch frame and several had the lower hatch frame crack from excess flexing from pushing hard to latch.
I'm a new C7 owner (acquired a 2016 Z51 LT2 about two weeks ago). For the last few years I've spent most of my time working overseas, being gone from my home base in the US for months at a time. I learned the hard way with my 2001 coupe to disconnect the battery (at the battery) before putting it away and going out of the country for a long time. I had intended to have a cut-off switch installed on my current period back in the States, but instead ended up giving up the C5 and getting the C7.
Questions:
1. Are there any known issues with completely disconnecting power from the C7 battery and storing it for as much as three or four months?
None, other than needing to re-index the windows when reconnected. Just pull the negative lead and should be good for months- Used to do this for deployed parking all the time.
2. Assuming disconnecting battery power is OK, are there any things I should know about restoring battery power when I come back to the States?
Again, none other than the windows. As a few precautions, be sure the battery is fully charged before disconnecting, I'd cover the negative post with something non-conductive, and make sure to test out your key with the hatch lock (and make sure it's clean and maybe a shot of silicone lubricant) BEFORE disconnecting anything.
3. Has anyone installed a battery cut-off switch on the C7? I assume the right place to do this would be back at the battery in its compartment in the right-rear under the interior deck lid. Is this right? Any recommendations on the kind of switch or a particular manufacturer/model of switch?
Makes sense but arguably over-kill and you're talking tight spaces. Just as easy to store a ratchet/socket with extension in the trunk for easy access.
Any help, information, tips or recommendations will be very greatly appreciated, because I have to go back overseas in just three weeks and need to address this right away!
Only other consideration is if it will get below freezing for long periods of time, low temps are tough on a battery. If so, may want to remove completely and store somewhere you can put on a maintainer.
Battery cut-off switch?
