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M7 transmission grinds from 1-2

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Old 06-29-2018, 04:45 PM
  #81  
dbirdhouse1
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Originally Posted by Skid Row Joe
Mine grinds, 1st to 2nd......
for the first 5 - 10 minutes; had my transmission fluid replaced; reduced by about half both in instances and level....14,200 miles
Old 06-30-2018, 01:03 PM
  #82  
9779
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Originally Posted by JerryU

Good dealer, good Tech. Surprised they are touching the Trans! Have a friend with a shop that was mostly fixing transmissions for the large Chevy, Caddy Dealer etc in town as there were not enough failures for the dealers to keep a trained Tech who had and could maintain the skill!

He has expanded his 6 Service bay shop activities to other service as too few Trans repairs from dealers. He does those mostly directly for customers older cars.The C7 has triple syncros in 2nd but they just fit together.
i hope you are right in regards to both the dealer and the tech sir! I’ll try and provide an update when I get it back. Long weekend without my baby!
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Old 06-30-2018, 01:21 PM
  #83  
JerryU
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^^^
If you haven't watched, this is my favorite synchro video. Even as a gearhead from a teenager I have to watch it several times. Very knowledgeable guy! I even bought his book! Fun to watch, as you go without your car for the week!

He'll show a double synchro toward the end, the C7 just adds one more!

Last edited by JerryU; 06-30-2018 at 01:22 PM.
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Old 07-01-2018, 09:31 AM
  #84  
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I’m not sure if my experience is applicable to the M7, but on a C6 Z06 M6 I had the same exact symptoms being described here.

An excellent Corvette dealership service manager in Hammond, Louisiana explained to me that the shifting forks on Corvette transmissions had plastic “slippers” on each side of the shifting forks where they rode (and moved) the gear itself when shifting. The plastic slippers would become deformed (especially with hard shifts).

He replaced the shifting fork slippers under warranty but actually ordered brass slippers (I paid the $80 upcharge) and installed them. The Z06 I had back then shifted flawlessly from that point forward.

He also told me one of the reasons the plastic slippers became deformed was dirty clutch fluid which caused the clutch not to totally disengage during fast/hard shifts. He suggested I vacuum out the clutch fluid and change it every 3 (or so) engine oil change.

I’ve stuck to his suggestions since (as do my friends) and have had no problems since.

Hope that’s helpful with your situation.
Old 07-01-2018, 10:27 AM
  #85  
wgood
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Mine never grinds and mine has 17,500 miles on it !! The only time it grinds is when I don't push in the clutch pedal far enough to engage the next gear !!! My fault !!! And I should know better because I have had 7 other manual transmission cars with my 2014 Corvette being the 8th car !!!! Your car sounds like it needs an adjustment !!! Wayne
Old 07-01-2018, 10:28 AM
  #86  
Thunder22
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Originally Posted by wgood
Mine never grinds and mine has 17,500 miles on it !! The only time it grinds is when I don't push in the clutch pedal far enough to engage the next gear !!! My fault !!! And I should know better because I have had 7 other manual transmission cars with my 2014 Corvette being the 8th car !!!! Your car sounds like it needs an adjustment !!! Wayne

!!!! wow !!! crazy!!!!
Old 07-01-2018, 12:39 PM
  #87  
iclick
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Originally Posted by thompstl1
He suggested I vacuum out the clutch fluid and change it every 3 (or so) engine oil change. I’ve stuck to his suggestions since (as do my friends) and have had no problems since.
How do you vacuum out the clutch fluid without introducing air into the system? I understand the bleeder valve is hard to access and requires some disassembly. I've been using the Ranger method every month or so, about 6X in the past year. Fluid looks relatively clean now, but I would like to bleed it fully every so often if it isn't a huge PITA.

Last edited by iclick; 07-01-2018 at 12:39 PM.
Old 07-01-2018, 01:46 PM
  #88  
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Originally Posted by iclick
How do you vacuum out the clutch fluid without introducing air into the system? I understand the bleeder valve is hard to access and requires some disassembly. I've been using the Ranger method every month or so, about 6X in the past year. Fluid looks relatively clean now, but I would like to bleed it fully every so often if it isn't a huge PITA.
I've got a small vacuum device and I suck about 90% of the fluid out of the reservoir. I refill with clean fluid, put the cap on, and then depress the clutch (back and forth) a couple of dozen times. Then vacuum out 90% of the fluid again. I repeat these steps (maybe 3-4 times) until the fluid stays clean after I've pumped the clutch.
Probably not as good as a complete flush and bleed, but it works just fine.
Old 07-09-2018, 06:46 PM
  #89  
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Originally Posted by 9779


i hope you are right in regards to both the dealer and the tech sir! I’ll try and provide an update when I get it back. Long weekend without my baby!
So got the car back today after a two week stay at the dealer. Tech took the transmission out, found both 1st and 2nd gears worn. He replaced both gears along with new syncros and blocking rings. He also installed a CAGS for me. The transmission seems to shift much better now.
Old 07-10-2018, 08:08 AM
  #90  
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I cured mine with an MGW shifter and Redline D4. Perfect again.
Old 07-10-2018, 09:13 AM
  #91  
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Do any of these different tranny fluids affect the factory warranty OR the extended warranty?
Old 07-10-2018, 09:21 AM
  #92  
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Originally Posted by 9779
So got the car back today after a two week stay at the dealer. Tech took the transmission out, found both 1st and 2nd gears worn. He replaced both gears along with new syncros and blocking rings. He also installed a CAGS for me. The transmission seems to shift much better now.
Great! Funny since the gears are in constant mesh, surprised there was wear. The grinding you hear is the synchro ring teeth hitting the blocking ring. Could be the debris that creates wear on the gears?

1st and 2nd are the gears that manage the highest torque loads.

Last edited by JerryU; 07-10-2018 at 09:22 AM.
Old 07-10-2018, 08:06 PM
  #93  
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Originally Posted by thompstl1
I've got a small vacuum device and I suck about 90% of the fluid out of the reservoir. I refill with clean fluid, put the cap on, and then depress the clutch (back and forth) a couple of dozen times. Then vacuum out 90% of the fluid again. I repeat these steps (maybe 3-4 times) until the fluid stays clean after I've pumped the clutch.
Probably not as good as a complete flush and bleed, but it works just fine.
Okay, I misunderstood your methodology. That's what I've been doing, too, which is what many of us call the Ranger Method. The difference is that I do it once, then drive the car a month or so and repeat. You can vacuum out, or more accurately suck out, all the fluid in the reservoir with a turkey baster or similar device without introducing air, then add clean fluid to top it off. Keeps the fluid looking clean and I would imagine might be a substitute for bleeding the system as per the maintenance schedule, which is reportedly a PITA on a C7.
Old 07-11-2018, 07:20 AM
  #94  
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Originally Posted by iclick
Mine is balky on the 1>2 shift when cold that sometimes extends into warm operation. Although it is not an audible grind it is felt in the shift lever. .................................. The M7 performs fine otherwise and I consider this a quirk rather than a fault, although Tremec might call it a "feature."
After six weeks with my new 2019, my experiences as well. My 01Z T56, 06Z T56, and 2011 ZR1 T6060 trannies were not near this bad.
Old 07-11-2018, 07:25 AM
  #95  
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Originally Posted by Foosh
I think a lot of people are describing the 1-2 "notchiness" when cold as grinding, but that's not what's happening at all.
I have never heard a grind 1-2 a little notch when cold but no grind
Old 07-11-2018, 07:29 AM
  #96  
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Holding firm leftward pressure, and slow-motion shifting when cold has completely eliminated the 1-2 "notchiness" for me. Once the box warms up, it's a non-issue, but my technique includes firm leftward pressure on all 1-2 shifts. One shouldn't be doing spirited driving anyway on a cold powertrain.

And once again, what folks are feeling is not gears "grinding." It's the 1-2 synchronizers doing a very difficult job of managing the transition between 2 very large gears in the only remaining manual transmission capable of handing LT engine levels of torque.

Last edited by Foosh; 07-11-2018 at 08:20 AM.
Old 07-11-2018, 09:41 AM
  #97  
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Originally Posted by TEXHAWK0
If you cannot shift without grinding, even when cold, something is wrong with the transmission or shifter. Mine has never grinded. There is a difference in reports of stiffness in getting it to go into gear and actually grinding.
x2
Your trans is defective, this is not normal. Manual boxes either work right or they need fixing, dont accept a "breaking in" explanation.
Only going to get worse over time.
I hear hondas have the same issue



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