When I go to unlock 15 ZO6 when I squeeze the door sometimes it unlocks and sometimes it doesn't! Weak battery or defective door lock?

 

There are about a 1/2 dozen possible answers to this.

It could be as simple as you are not squeezing in the exact place where the pads are.

Your fob battery is low.

Your car battery is low.

There is some sort of interference not allowing the car to recognize the fob.

Any number of combinations of the above.

and two more things at least.

 

I would start by replacing the battery and trying again.

 

Defective door lock is way down on the list. First thing to do is change fob battery.

 

I just had a "Keyless Starting System Malfunction".....or something like that spring up on me about an hour ago. I got out, did my thing, went back to car and it didn't unlock without pushing the unlock button and it didn't start without putting the remote into the steering column slot....me thinks it's just a battery but I replaced it maybe 6 months ago. Oh well....definitely start with replacing the battery in the remote.

 

monk, change your fob battery.

 

What type of fob battery did you use? When I had my old C6 I replaced the fob battery with one of the ones I got at Dollarama and that battery only lasted six months before giving me issues! Replaced it with an Energizer one from Canadian Tire and it solved the problem and lasted many years.

 

Your 2015 Key Fob battery is now three years old. It needs to be replaced. It's well documented on this forum that you need to replace the battery when it's three years old. Careful, watch for that tiny spring that jumps out when you replace the battery.

 

This, with a small wording change for the year, should be placed as a sticky above.
The three-year thing started with the '14s and will progressively move through the years and owners will continue to have problems and questions.
It should be done as preventive maintenance. The batteries are cheap.

 

Sequence to follow:
1) Try your second FOB they don't get used as much and the batteries tend to last a little longer
2) Replace the fob batteries
3) Make sure the car battery is properly charged/cables clean and tight and proper voltage is being delivered to the door.
3) If still covered by the B2B warranty let the dealer worry about it.
4) Do you get the same problem when you are trying to exit the car? If so the problem may lie with the door control module as both the internal and external switches are wired to the module. If both buttons have the same intermittent issue and the car battery and wiring are OK then let the dealer resolve the problem if the car is still covered by the B2B. Otherwise, you have to decide whether you want the dealer to diagnose and repair the problem. The DCM isn't particularly expensive but without the tools the dealer has you can't be sure it is the problem.

If the inside button works fine more than likely the issue is in the outside pad. If not covered by the warranty swap the door key pads and see if it works better. If it does then the key pad that moved to the passenger side of the car needs to be replaced.

Bill

 

Thanks all for advice! I'll replace battery!

 

In addition to all of the above, even with a fresh battery (and for that matter from day one when the car was new), there are times when the key fob doesn't register because of how it may be sitting in your pocket and its proximity to the car. I've had my car (when the door's open and I'm cleaning or working on something and want to put the ignition in accessory mode) tell me no fob present when it's in my left pants pocket with my other car keys and house keys. Part of me always wants to tell the car, "Hey stupid, the fob's right here--now work!".

 

I didn't think we had actual door locks. The lock function is performed by killing power to the door open buttons.

Fuel door is the only locking door.

 

It would really be kinda neat if someone would make a step action table to walk people through the dreaded FOB not Found scenario. If only it were true...

Wait, what is that I see in the search feature?

http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c7-g...s-and-rke.html


Elmer

 

You need to do another one to make it obvious for those whose cars are becoming three years old. Something simple like: If your FOB is 3 years old- change the FOB battery. It happens more often than having to reprogram a FOB into the system.

 

And add that fobs that have never been used go dead in about the same amount of time.
Don't think door locks need to remain energized to stay locked since that would be a constant drain on the battery. I think they work just like the fuel door actuator. Power to lock, and reverse power to unlock, but not spring loaded or powered to keep in either position.

 

Ought to put in big red letters, 3 years old FOB battery has probably took a dump! Change the damn thing!

Luckily, my FOB not found goes for the FOB battery right off the bat. They just need to read it and change the battery!


Elmer

 

This is my experience with the FOB in my September 2013 built Z51.

1) Changed batteries as a precaution in the one FOB I use at ~1 1/2 yrs.

2) At 3 years could not consistently get into the car. Had to push the open button. One day it would not start and had to put the FOB in the steering wheel slot.

3) Checked that battery with a meter I have used for years. (PIA getting the battery out.) It puts a small load on the battery depending on size (much better then just using a volt meter.) It read just in the Green OK area. Checked the battery in the 3 year old FOB that had not been used. Read the same just in the OK area.

4) Bought new quality batteires (not that cheap one I bought at year 1 1/2. Meter read on the high end of the Green OK area. All was fine!

BOTTOM LINE: Appears when the battery is on the weak side it causes problems! FWIW