Leaving Z06 in garage for 6 months
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rocker (02-25-2018)
#2
You may want to take out the battery and connect it to a smart charger or float charger
Last edited by PobreWey; 02-25-2018 at 10:44 AM. Reason: added the charger comment
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sportsnut1520 (02-25-2018)
#4
It should be fine for sure and most recommend leaving it with a full tank of gas before storing however a lot of people on here have different opinions on that from what I've seen.
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sportsnut1520 (02-25-2018)
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sportsnut1520 (02-25-2018)
#6
Burning Brakes
No problem. I do it every year. I do plug a battery maintainer into the charging port in the trunk. I also change the oil before storage.
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sportsnut1520 (02-25-2018)
#7
Team Owner
Hook it up to a battery tender, inflate the tires 5psi and do not start it, it will be fine in 6 months.
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sportsnut1520 (02-25-2018)
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sportsnut1520 (02-25-2018)
#10
Le Mans Master
I have never found the battery tender route to do jack. I had my Harley hooked up all the time and garbage Harley battery still died. Same with my C6, factory battery still died on one. Age and temps kill batteries and I get about 5 years out of them max.
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sportsnut1520 (02-25-2018)
#11
Instructor
I've had good luck with battery maintainers, used one on my Harley since new. The battery is now 12 years old and needs to be replaced. I've been using one this winter on the Corvette and have had no problems.
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sportsnut1520 (02-25-2018)
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sportsnut1520 (02-25-2018)
#13
1. Detltran trickle charger
2. Inflate tire to maximum allowed on side wall to prevent flat spots.
3. Add a gas preservative and then fill with gas and drive some miles to get the preservative into the entire fuel system
4. Close all windows to prevent pest from taking over.
This worked for decades
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sportsnut1520 (02-25-2018)
#14
Race Director
Connect it to a battery tender (I wouldn't take the battery out) and you will be fine. No need to worry about the tires either as they won't get flat spots in just 6 months and even if they did they would come out after driving a few miles at highway speeds.
I've always kept Corvettes in storage and never an issue.
I've always kept Corvettes in storage and never an issue.
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sportsnut1520 (02-25-2018)
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sportsnut1520 (03-09-2018)
#17
Race Director
Six months isn't that long to have a car in storage, 10>12 months or more; then you need to take precautions over and above just the battery.
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sportsnut1520 (03-09-2018)
#18
Here's what I do. I'm not saying it's 100 percent correct, but it's worked for me on many cars since 2001.
To survive Ontario's long cold off season:
1. Fill with premium and add fuel stabilizer.
2. Clean inside and out
3. Park on flat stoppers (a controversial topic here!)
4. Crack windows slightly
5. Hook up battery maintainers. I use noco brand
6. Wait impatiently for spring.
And never let your ride sleep alone!
To survive Ontario's long cold off season:
1. Fill with premium and add fuel stabilizer.
2. Clean inside and out
3. Park on flat stoppers (a controversial topic here!)
4. Crack windows slightly
5. Hook up battery maintainers. I use noco brand
6. Wait impatiently for spring.
And never let your ride sleep alone!
Last edited by Z06 1of38; 02-25-2018 at 09:51 PM.
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sportsnut1520 (03-09-2018)
#19
Oh the good ole controversial topic of storage lol
I literally have a pile of things w motors that need to be stored in my life, from excavators to jet skies and snow mobiles so here is what works for me!
A good battery maintainer, I prefer to leave battery in vehicle on charge, had issues over the years w electronics when I pulled the battery, but if no way to plug in the charger then I do recommend removing the battery, I have a shelf in my shop with several batteries on it, and once a month I start on one end and move the trickle charger down each battery each day till I get them all, I average 5-6 years of battery life, i could actually get more but I don't risk it on water craft and snowmobiles for fear of being stranded, but my skid steer battery though is a good 10 years old.
I highly recommend filling the tank w ethanol free fuel, I do this in all my seasonal equipment, my snow blower went 5 years and started like a champ, as did my R1 bike, my steps,sons bike after 18 months w regular ethanol fuel, not so much. A mechanic friend where I buy my sleds told me he used to do 3-5 carbs or fuel injectors a year, now with ethanol fuel he does about 150 a year, at end of summer my boat and skis last few tanks I spend a little more for ethanol free and have never had an issue, my vette is currently full of ethanol free fuel.
Put some carpet squares under the tires if on concrete, I actually roll out a tarp, place 4 carpet squares and drive on them, the area in my shop where my car spends winter is partially climate controlled.
Place a few bounce fabric sheets in the car and I usually put one on top of the front tires, helps keep nice smell and seems to keep mice away.
now I change my oil in the spring, I like to wash any condensation out, if your storage is not climate controlled you will get condensation , its usually minimal though so if you change oil in the fall no worries, so i fire it up in the spring bring it up to temp then drain, now I do this because were using synthetic oil changed at 5000 miles which is low on contaminates, my buddy actually tests oil and i have him check mine, if nothing in it to worry about I wait till spring, it's actually amazing how much good oil we change out, modern syn oil doesnt really go bad it just gets dirty and contaminated, i constantly send him oil from our trucks or machines w 6-7k miles on the oil and he will call and say go another 5k and send it to me again, but I never exceed 10k on anything anyway.
wash it and cover and your done...
As for starting it, if you don't need to start it then dont , however starting it here or there is not a big deal if you let it run 20 or so minutes to get it warm and get oil all through the engine and heat up the exhaust. Some guys will say its a dry start (which it is) and never do it, but so is starting the car after it has sat for a day or two which happens several 100 times during the driving season. I have to move mine a few times in winter to get to some equipment anyway, and if its a nice ( or should i say less crappy) day i usually try and squeak in a quick run lol. Biggest issue w starting other then the "dry start" is condensation, on a regular steel exhaust this is bad, but on an SS exhaust not such a big deal. My dad's one friend and I had the same truck years ago, and he once asked me how many exhausts I had gone through and I said none, it's the factory one, it blew his mind my truck had 80k on it and still had the original exhaust and his had 18k on his in 4 years and he was on his second and soon to be 3rd, my dad explained to him that since he literally jumps in the truck and drives 1.2 miles to the family store he owned then the same home at night all he was doing was making condensation while i run mine everyday all over the country and mine gets hot enough to burn off most of it. Funny part was a year later he sold his store and came to work for us all over the country, he then put over 200k on that truck and never put another exhaust on it, plus he towed with it and carried heavy loads. So the first 4 years of that trucks life was nothing but dry starts and condensation in the exhaust and then it went another 6 years running and towing with no issues, so how hard are we really on these cars that rarely see hard use??? But as I always say, do what makes you feel better. If people were really worried about dry starts they would fog each cylinder like I do to my boat and jet skis ( luckily our newer 2 stroke mountain sleds self fog, huge plus i wish all things did this hahah) I have actually pulled plugs on certain things that have sat for more then a year and sprayed each cylinder the night before i start what ever it is, probably over kill, but cheap insurance. If just sitting for 6 months...nothing to worry about. Just my .02
I literally have a pile of things w motors that need to be stored in my life, from excavators to jet skies and snow mobiles so here is what works for me!
A good battery maintainer, I prefer to leave battery in vehicle on charge, had issues over the years w electronics when I pulled the battery, but if no way to plug in the charger then I do recommend removing the battery, I have a shelf in my shop with several batteries on it, and once a month I start on one end and move the trickle charger down each battery each day till I get them all, I average 5-6 years of battery life, i could actually get more but I don't risk it on water craft and snowmobiles for fear of being stranded, but my skid steer battery though is a good 10 years old.
I highly recommend filling the tank w ethanol free fuel, I do this in all my seasonal equipment, my snow blower went 5 years and started like a champ, as did my R1 bike, my steps,sons bike after 18 months w regular ethanol fuel, not so much. A mechanic friend where I buy my sleds told me he used to do 3-5 carbs or fuel injectors a year, now with ethanol fuel he does about 150 a year, at end of summer my boat and skis last few tanks I spend a little more for ethanol free and have never had an issue, my vette is currently full of ethanol free fuel.
Put some carpet squares under the tires if on concrete, I actually roll out a tarp, place 4 carpet squares and drive on them, the area in my shop where my car spends winter is partially climate controlled.
Place a few bounce fabric sheets in the car and I usually put one on top of the front tires, helps keep nice smell and seems to keep mice away.
now I change my oil in the spring, I like to wash any condensation out, if your storage is not climate controlled you will get condensation , its usually minimal though so if you change oil in the fall no worries, so i fire it up in the spring bring it up to temp then drain, now I do this because were using synthetic oil changed at 5000 miles which is low on contaminates, my buddy actually tests oil and i have him check mine, if nothing in it to worry about I wait till spring, it's actually amazing how much good oil we change out, modern syn oil doesnt really go bad it just gets dirty and contaminated, i constantly send him oil from our trucks or machines w 6-7k miles on the oil and he will call and say go another 5k and send it to me again, but I never exceed 10k on anything anyway.
wash it and cover and your done...
As for starting it, if you don't need to start it then dont , however starting it here or there is not a big deal if you let it run 20 or so minutes to get it warm and get oil all through the engine and heat up the exhaust. Some guys will say its a dry start (which it is) and never do it, but so is starting the car after it has sat for a day or two which happens several 100 times during the driving season. I have to move mine a few times in winter to get to some equipment anyway, and if its a nice ( or should i say less crappy) day i usually try and squeak in a quick run lol. Biggest issue w starting other then the "dry start" is condensation, on a regular steel exhaust this is bad, but on an SS exhaust not such a big deal. My dad's one friend and I had the same truck years ago, and he once asked me how many exhausts I had gone through and I said none, it's the factory one, it blew his mind my truck had 80k on it and still had the original exhaust and his had 18k on his in 4 years and he was on his second and soon to be 3rd, my dad explained to him that since he literally jumps in the truck and drives 1.2 miles to the family store he owned then the same home at night all he was doing was making condensation while i run mine everyday all over the country and mine gets hot enough to burn off most of it. Funny part was a year later he sold his store and came to work for us all over the country, he then put over 200k on that truck and never put another exhaust on it, plus he towed with it and carried heavy loads. So the first 4 years of that trucks life was nothing but dry starts and condensation in the exhaust and then it went another 6 years running and towing with no issues, so how hard are we really on these cars that rarely see hard use??? But as I always say, do what makes you feel better. If people were really worried about dry starts they would fog each cylinder like I do to my boat and jet skis ( luckily our newer 2 stroke mountain sleds self fog, huge plus i wish all things did this hahah) I have actually pulled plugs on certain things that have sat for more then a year and sprayed each cylinder the night before i start what ever it is, probably over kill, but cheap insurance. If just sitting for 6 months...nothing to worry about. Just my .02
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sportsnut1520 (03-09-2018)
#20
Race Director