Shifter upgrade questions
#21
Race Director
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Imho, the shifter "****" is a piece of s**t. Try a a real shift-ball first and see if that helps before bothering with the aftermarket shifter mechanisms and the install hassles. Doing so made SUCH a difference in my C5 & C7s!
#22
We all have our opinion about *****. I actually like the stock one and think the ball looks out of place in the C7. The ball looked great in my old mustang though. The MGW is far from a hassle to install and is quite easy. The feel compared to the sloppy bushings is night and day. There is definitely a difference.
#23
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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^^^
Hmm, “Form Follows Fuction” so my 2 1/4 inch diameter cue ball size **** looks great to me! I bought it for my Z51 and another for my Grand Sport because IMO, with my fat hands, it makes shifting more consistent- - to each their own!
It’s like side skirts some don’t “like for appearance” which is fine but they stopped the many pebbles in our area from marking the rocker panels so they look good to me! Even Tade’s Post about why they used “Spates” on the Z06 and Grand Sport made me “think” they looked better after his detail about why they were selected for aero reasons over options they evaluated! Did not say “good” just better!
Hmm, “Form Follows Fuction” so my 2 1/4 inch diameter cue ball size **** looks great to me! I bought it for my Z51 and another for my Grand Sport because IMO, with my fat hands, it makes shifting more consistent- - to each their own!
It’s like side skirts some don’t “like for appearance” which is fine but they stopped the many pebbles in our area from marking the rocker panels so they look good to me! Even Tade’s Post about why they used “Spates” on the Z06 and Grand Sport made me “think” they looked better after his detail about why they were selected for aero reasons over options they evaluated! Did not say “good” just better!
Last edited by JerryU; 07-11-2018 at 04:19 PM.
#24
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 2016
Location: MOUNTAIN HOME Arkansas
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'16 Z. My thoughts here only apply to the MGW. Changed mine little over a year ago. I was shocked at the bottom end of the OE unit. It looked like a tiny Reese's peanut butter wrapper made of tin (might have been plastic) that the ball sat in. The rest of it was also cheap, flimsy material-no wonder OE had a "bit" of slop in it. Kept my OE unit in case I wanted to switch back, tossed it after 2 weeks. Some say it is not difficult to install but seriously if not mechanically inclined with a logical thought process (don't know how I managed) it can have tricky moments. The instructions do leave a bit to be desired, unless vendor has improved them. There was several posts with folks giving valuable insight.I believe Fyreant(?) might have done a great "how to". Surely someone will tell you exactly where to look. Biggest things I can say about install, read the web site instructions SEVERAL times, watch the video SEVERAL times. When you get ready to cut OE boot, make sure you really understand. Lay all removed pieces on a large towel (I put it in passenger seat). Good idea to stuff rags between seats & inside the tunnel to stop tiny parts from disappearing (maybe a magnetic retrieval tool also). Mark all connections with labels of some sort, like #1/#1, #2/#2 to keep it straight. Putting the sticky pads down inside the tunnel, do a check fit/placement first w/o removing backing 'cause that crap sticks like crazy to everything! Of course some will make fun of others, but if not convinced you can do it, look for someone/shop that you trust. Good luck!
Last edited by madrob2020; 07-11-2018 at 05:14 PM.
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JerryU (07-11-2018)
#25
I agree if one doesn't understand how to turn a wrench then they may want to pay someone. However with a bit of understanding it's fairly easy and will save a $150 or more.
#26
Instructor
I love my 2014 Z51, but the shifting was not to my liking.
After putting in a MGW shifter I was very happy with the precision, however the shifting effort was too high for me and my wife. I have the strength but didn't like the effort required to dance the stick around.
I removed the MGW stubby stick and had a machine shop make a longer version and installed it with the OE ball. It is 5.90" long, which is 2" longer that the stubby MGW stick. I also put in oring grooves and orings to eliminate shifter ball resonance. Now it looks stock and shifts like a dream. I also changed the trans oil to Amsoil and put a thicker spacer on the shifter rod detent ball spring in the transmission.
Now it shifts wonderfully!!
After putting in a MGW shifter I was very happy with the precision, however the shifting effort was too high for me and my wife. I have the strength but didn't like the effort required to dance the stick around.
I removed the MGW stubby stick and had a machine shop make a longer version and installed it with the OE ball. It is 5.90" long, which is 2" longer that the stubby MGW stick. I also put in oring grooves and orings to eliminate shifter ball resonance. Now it looks stock and shifts like a dream. I also changed the trans oil to Amsoil and put a thicker spacer on the shifter rod detent ball spring in the transmission.
Now it shifts wonderfully!!
#27
Burning Brakes
As mentioned previously, I got the MGW shifter. But I like the Hurst T-handle with
a very short throw on my Z51 Stingray.
a very short throw on my Z51 Stingray.
Last edited by agapsdiver; 07-11-2018 at 07:27 PM.
#28
Racer
My C7 is also a 2017 and I've had exactly the same experience with my shifter as you have described. I've driven manual transmissions for over 40 years in dozens of vehicles and have never had as much difficulty in reliably finding the right gear. Going with the recommendations on this forum I installed an MGW shifter and did find it to be somewhat of an improvement.
It is much more precise and has made it a little easier to find the correct gear. It doesn't completely cure the problem but it does help. Good luck!
It is much more precise and has made it a little easier to find the correct gear. It doesn't completely cure the problem but it does help. Good luck!
#29
Drifting
Put an MGW in my 2007 C6 and it was a great improvement. Didn't put one in my 2016 Z51, but when I got my 18 GS, I installed it within 2 months.
The stock shifter felt fine, but it was a little sloppy. For those that said the C7 shifter was a huge improvement over the C6, IMHO, they both are pieces of crap.
A $70K+ car should come with a more substantial shifter. I don't track my GS, but I do enjoy putting it through it's paces. For me, the MGW is a perfect fit for the C7.
It's not necessary, but it is an improvement.
The stock shifter felt fine, but it was a little sloppy. For those that said the C7 shifter was a huge improvement over the C6, IMHO, they both are pieces of crap.
A $70K+ car should come with a more substantial shifter. I don't track my GS, but I do enjoy putting it through it's paces. For me, the MGW is a perfect fit for the C7.
It's not necessary, but it is an improvement.
#30
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Aug 2016
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Just one more thing. Biggest problem for most, which is first step, removing OE **** without screwing up the **** leather. Getting that ring under boot cover to rotate & disengage is a bugger on many *****.
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cheapthrills (07-17-2018)
#31
#32
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
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The trick is to lift and turn. If you don't lift you are fighting against the tabs. I played with it a bit when I did mine as I pulled the leather down more than I liked. Overall it was a pretty easy job other than one of the electrical connection. It was easy after putting on glasses ��
On my 2017 thought that was easy, the ring is turning with no problem! That was only the case as the chrome ring was turning because the staple that holds it to the "leather" came loose!
Then the screw that held the OEM **** would not come lose! Bought a product I had seen advertised for years that increases friction, great for Phillips head screws. The screw head finally turned 90 degrees and I thought finally got it! But no, turned slightly more and the screw head sheared from the threads! PIA to get the remaining broken screw out! They must have used Red Loctite! Noticed in one set of instructions posted it said drive the car for two hours to get the shaft hot! (My Install PDF recommends using a soldering iron if it's tight to heat the screw!) I have other recommendations in the PDF for those who are also unlucky! Love the video's that show that "Pull-Up and Rotate" where it looks so easy! Check out my How To PDF in case your OEM **** is also difficult to remove! : http://netwelding.com/Shift_Knob.pdf
Last edited by JerryU; 07-12-2018 at 07:25 AM.
#33
Le Mans Master
#34
I am not interested in a new shift handle or shaft. I like the look of the stock ones. I am interested just in the shifter and, if I do it, it will probably be the new, redesigned Callaway, and not the MGW. I've heard mixed things about the MGW, but everyone seems to love the Callaway if they have one.
#35
I am not interested in a new shift handle or shaft. I like the look of the stock ones. I am interested just in the shifter and, if I do it, it will probably be the new, redesigned Callaway, and not the MGW. I've heard mixed things about the MGW, but everyone seems to love the Callaway if they have one.
#36
Burning Brakes
#37
Melting Slicks
Member Since: May 2006
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Have installed a number of "short shifters" in vehicles but I like what I added and even if I were to replace the C7 shifter (which I do not find necessary) I would use it- a cue ball size shift ****!
I'll explain why and how I seldom miss a shift because I don't use 6th!
Got my 2014 Z51 in October 2013 and my Grand Sport about a year ago to replace it. Found there was no need to use all the overdrives so seldom use 6th! A common shift for me is 4th or 5th to 7th when on the Interstate. Found the larger cue ball size shift **** was a help. It also makes the 1st to 2nd shift better IMO. The aftermarket **** sits lower on the shaft so decreases shift stroke ~11%.
Another thing I found is when leaving the Interstate and wanting to be in direct drive 4th, I let the shifter springs do that for me! Just pull back with little pressure and you're in 4th! Also use that 7th to 4th shift when I pass and 18 wheeler on the Interstate (hate to drive next to them, when I got my C7 one through a rock and chipped the windshield!) Rev match makes that a perfectly smooth transition. Of interest, which you may have discovered, It's the first standard shift I have owned (been driving only standard shifts for my DD for ~60 years) that will return to my cruise control setting automatically even though the clutch was depressed for the shift!
In our rural area and in town I typically am in 5th gear. When I make a turn, I shift directly to 3rd and again rev match makes that a perfectly smooth transition. I am quite good at heel toe when driving in anger and the lower gear will have the engine at high rpm. But modulating the throttle at lower rpm's not nearly as easy. Tried with similar low rpm shifts with my C6 Z51 all the time and would get it perfect half the time! Rev match does it perfect 100% of the time!
This is a pic/text PDF of my install with a caution about getting the old **** off: http://netwelding.com/Shift_Knob.pdf
I'll explain why and how I seldom miss a shift because I don't use 6th!
Got my 2014 Z51 in October 2013 and my Grand Sport about a year ago to replace it. Found there was no need to use all the overdrives so seldom use 6th! A common shift for me is 4th or 5th to 7th when on the Interstate. Found the larger cue ball size shift **** was a help. It also makes the 1st to 2nd shift better IMO. The aftermarket **** sits lower on the shaft so decreases shift stroke ~11%.
Another thing I found is when leaving the Interstate and wanting to be in direct drive 4th, I let the shifter springs do that for me! Just pull back with little pressure and you're in 4th! Also use that 7th to 4th shift when I pass and 18 wheeler on the Interstate (hate to drive next to them, when I got my C7 one through a rock and chipped the windshield!) Rev match makes that a perfectly smooth transition. Of interest, which you may have discovered, It's the first standard shift I have owned (been driving only standard shifts for my DD for ~60 years) that will return to my cruise control setting automatically even though the clutch was depressed for the shift!
In our rural area and in town I typically am in 5th gear. When I make a turn, I shift directly to 3rd and again rev match makes that a perfectly smooth transition. I am quite good at heel toe when driving in anger and the lower gear will have the engine at high rpm. But modulating the throttle at lower rpm's not nearly as easy. Tried with similar low rpm shifts with my C6 Z51 all the time and would get it perfect half the time! Rev match does it perfect 100% of the time!
This is a pic/text PDF of my install with a caution about getting the old **** off: http://netwelding.com/Shift_Knob.pdf
#38
Safety Car
Most on here say MGW.But i’m The same way as Texhawko Core hurst is fantastic.Plus you will have A hurst shaft coming out the boot.I also have A T- handle like agapsdiver.With the hurst shaft and the Hurst T handle it gets a lot of looks.
#39
I notice some people saying the MGW shifter takes a lot of effort to up shift / down shift. In my experience (I've had MGW's on 2 Corvettes), this dissipates greatly over time and settles in to a very smooth, effortless shift. I'm very happy with my MGW; I did not like the stock sifter at all and the MGW took away much of the 'notchy' problem I was having shifting from 1st to 2nd gear. I will say the MGW is tight and you will skip a gear here and there until you get used to it.
#40
Supporting Vendor
Most aftermarket shifters, maybe all of them, are called short shifters because they reduce the travel or distance you have to move the **** to get into each gear. When you shorten the distance you shorten the leverage you have and this is why it's harder to move and get into each gear, it's simply requiring more force. Not a lot, many people don't mind, but some do and it is a significant difference.
One of the most important things to keep in mind about any shifter is the lower box. The lower box assembly is responsible for a majority of negative characteristics people feel in corvette shifters, C5, C6 and C7's. They all use the same lower box. The only shifter that accounts for this is the MGW. If you get the MGW with the lower box assembly as well. I think its obvious that this is the reason most people consider it the best option, I don't disagree. That being said, if you want to run any other shifter or if you want to retain a shift that requires less force to get into gear you would be well served to consider your lower box. If anyone has any questions shoot me a PM or email.
One of the most important things to keep in mind about any shifter is the lower box. The lower box assembly is responsible for a majority of negative characteristics people feel in corvette shifters, C5, C6 and C7's. They all use the same lower box. The only shifter that accounts for this is the MGW. If you get the MGW with the lower box assembly as well. I think its obvious that this is the reason most people consider it the best option, I don't disagree. That being said, if you want to run any other shifter or if you want to retain a shift that requires less force to get into gear you would be well served to consider your lower box. If anyone has any questions shoot me a PM or email.
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Performance Shifter Boxes
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TMODCUSTOMS Specialty CNC Products
C5, C6 & C7
Performance Shifter Boxes
Upgraded Shifter Options
Zero-Slop Shifter Linkages
Don't replace your clutch without upgrading your linkage!
www.TMODCUSTOMS.com
info@tmodcustoms.com