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Just to let you know, about 12 years ago I bout a couple aluminum low-profiles no-names at NAPA for WAY less $$$ to work on my wife's B'vile racer on the Salt Flats. I've used them on everything ever since and both still work perfectly. I'm just suggesting there are other viable options, if not for you perhaps others who read the thread.
Just to let you know, about 12 years ago I bout a couple aluminum low-profiles no-names at NAPA for WAY less $$$ to work on my wife's B'vile racer on the Salt Flats. I've used them on everything ever since and both still work perfectly. I'm just suggesting there are other viable options, if not for you perhaps others who read the thread.
Which one did you buy at NAPA?
Last edited by Sixgun95; Nov 20, 2018 at 10:30 PM.
If you need a low profile jack, this is the one for you. Works on all others also. 4 Reviews
Q&AMfg Part #011362SCH01AECS Part #ES#2834951Brand
221.96
$295.95 (Sale - Save 25%)
or as low as $19.52/mo with
In Stock
This one?
Looks similar to my light weight Harbor Freight "Short Arm" aluminum jack I paid ~$59 for some years ago, a bit more now. That padded handle looks similar as well. (See Harbor Freight has a 15% discount coupon for the weekend including Black Friday that is good for jacks- where their normal 20% discount coupons are not. The OP may wish to visit their website, it should be there.)
Just Be Careful.
I have 4 hydraulic jacks, all from Harbor Freight. The light weight aluminum short arm jack is fine IF just jacking up a short distance to say remove a tire. BUT if jacking near it's max lift as noted in the pic below it has to move "into" the center of the car 2.6 inches to keep the jack saddle under the jack pad (you do need jack pads to lift a Vette.)
After having the short arm jack slip, when it did not move in enough on my concrete driveway, I bought a long arm jack. It weights ~95 lbs and although for the same lift height as the short arm jack it only has to move in 1.2 inches but is so heavy it was not rolling even on my tiled floor garage as the Vette was lifted! That means the jack saddle must slip over the jack pad. The jack saddle recess is so shallow it is not enough to provide any help from the jack pad to "pull it into the center" to keep the saddle under the jack pad! As noted in pic, I welded a steel lip onto the jack saddle that captures the jack pad! Now it cannot slip off and pulls the jack into the Vette center. I still watch carefully as I lift the Vette to see that, whichever jack(s) I am using, the saddle remains under the jack pad as it is raised to assure it has not slipped.
I'd sure check to see where the jack was made as most are produced in China. I would not pay a lot more for one made in the same factory as those where Harbor Freight get theirs! Recall when we toured the huge Harbor Freight warehouse in Dillion SC (it is 1 million square feet and is one of only two, the other in CA) with our ASME local section, one of our members asked the facility manger who conducted the tour if they sell any products from Black & Decker etc. He said, "I see those brands being made in the same factories making ours when I visit China!"
Bought my 1st large Harbor Freight hydraulic jack when I built my Street Rod in 2000! Has always worked great. At that time there were no Harbor Freight stores in our area so it was shipped free as was my Engine Lift etc from CA to SC! For home use can't beat their products/prices!
Side Bar:
Never owned a clamp-on current meter because they were typically over $100. Recently bought one from Harbor Freight for ~$13 (with 20% off coupon) and solved a tripping electrical breaker problem. Could watch as I added the lights, appliances and fountain pump to that line and see the amperage increase matching the appliance amperage data plate and light wattage! All well under the max 20 amp breaker. Found it was an intermittent short in a buried outdoor power line when it rained!
My point is, their prices are so low they have created sales of items I would not have purchased!
Have noticed they are now offering some upgraded products, such as engine powered generators. They are publishing comparisons with Honda generators, for example. Something I am very familiar with, welders, they have added an upscale product line called Vulcan. Compared to the very cheap "Chicago Electric" brands they still offer, the Vulcan welders have industrial capacities and over twice the price. But the inverter based welders are very well built and about half the price of Miller, Lincoln etc. They show comparisons with Lincoln! They recently doubled the size of the warehouse (one of only two in the US) that is located near where I live!
Ok, here's my take.. while I have a Arcan XL2t low profile 2 ton jack, you know what I reach for most often? The Harbor freight aluminium light weight jack..
BUT,,, I've got a two post lift in my garage, so anything that is getting worked on is there.. But to rotate a tire, or clean a wheel? The light weight, easy to move jack is the go too...
If I had to put something on jack stands, get the big jack. (for all the reasons listed above, but that's why I installed the lift... I'm NEVER, EVER, working under a car on jack stands again...)
Yep Harbor freight 1.5 ton aluminum. $60? I use it all the time. I also have a HF 3 ton steel that I got for like $80. That’s for my SUV. No need to spend $300 on a floor jack. It’s pretty red paint and the same Chinese floor jack.
Thanks for the feedback guys, I appreciate it. I have a QuickJack for most lifting, I had an issue with my current jack that I use if I just want to put one corner on a stand or something similar. I have looked at the HF jacks and may go that way since I don't use it all that much.
Looks similar to my light weight Harbor Freight "Short Arm" aluminum jack I paid ~$59 for some years ago, a bit more now. That padded handle looks similar as well.
Given the similarities I bet these are the same jacks... just a different color and price point. My blue HF one has been working for 5 years. I just bought the longer, lower (heavier!) steel grey version just so I can lift the car and keep it level, but honestly the little blue one is perfect.
... you know what I reach for most often? The Harbor freight aluminium light weight jack..
… but that's why I installed the lift... I'm NEVER, EVER, working under a car on jack stands again...)
Yep, if you have room etc to install a lift, I agree great way to go. But I consider my method of lifting the Vette, for example for an oil change where I want it level, safe.
I use "Stanchions" for the back wheels. Made the ones shown and also have four 12 inch high commercial ones I used when building my street rod but takes a several step jacking proceedre to use those. Then for the front, I use two jacks and put jack stands under the approved lift locations on the front cross member. I lift both the front and rear with two jack pads alternating both sides a few times so it stays level. In the front I lower lower the jacks on the jack stands. BUT the jacks are left touching the jack pads as a safety precaution. Belt and suspenders -but safe!
FWIW for those without the space or who don't want to invest in a lift.
But I consider my method of lifting the Vette, for example for an oil change where I want it level, safe.
I use "Stanchions" for the back wheels.
I have used some Rhino ramps as stanchions for an oil change. They are angled too steep to drive up plus they slip regardless of what their marketing department says, but once jacked from the puck locations you can just place the ramps under the front tires. The rear tires are bit too big for them. The other downside is they only get the car about 7" off the ground which isn't really enough room to squeeze under for an oil change. I managed, but I am thin, so most average size guys wouldn't.
What the ramps are good for is temporarily getting the car high enough to reach the cross member jacking locations. This allows you to lift in stages - go up with a set of jacks (one per side) on pucks, place (front) wheels onto ramps, reposition jack and go up again using the cross member, then place your jack stands as recommended.
Watching all the videos for the Quick Jack it seems like the BEST solution out there. Rennstands are a close second, but you need a really low profile jack and low profile pucks since the stands minimum starting height is 2". The distance to my pucks (Z51 stock ride height) is about 5.25" which means you need a sub 3" jack - like HF grey one.
I use the Harbor Freight #68050 2-ton extra low profile jack. Easily clears C7 side skirts with only a 2-5/8" lift point. The foot pedal is especially nice for raising car in close confined spaces such as against garage walls where there's limited space for jack handle travel.
Believe I paid around $109 for it.
OMG - close to $300 for a jack...total waste. Harbor Freight low profile - under $100 and fits under any Corvette and it's a THREE ton jack (not a 2 ton):
OMG - close to $300 for a jack...total waste. Harbor Freight low profile - under $100 and fits under any Corvette and it's a THREE ton jack (not a 2 ton):
Yes, that's a good choice and they often run it on sale for $79. I still prefer the 68050 though because it can be raised via the handle or the foot pedal.
Yes, that's a good choice and they often run it on sale for $79. I still prefer the 68050 though because it can be raised via the handle or the foot pedal.
Ohh that foot pedal is a nice feature - I didn't even see that...
Bought my 1st large Harbor Freight hydraulic jack when I built my Street Rod in 2000! Has always worked great. At that time there were no Harbor Freight stores in our area so it was shipped free as was my Engine Lift etc from CA to SC! For home use can't beat their products/prices!
