No remote detected?
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 26,254
Likes: 4,363
From: Chirper Island
I have the same situation in my 2017 Z06. The doors wouldn’t unlock. The hatch would unlock by pressing the button underneath, but not with the key fob. I opened the driver’s door with the pull tab in the trunk. I inserted the key fob in the steering column slot and was able to start the car. The driver door wouldn’t open. I had to use the release latch on the floor to open the door. I replaced the batteries in both key fobs and the car still shows “ no remote key was detected “. I replaced the car battery 18 months ago. When the engine is running the digital display shows 14.7-14.8 volts for the battery.
I know this problem has many threads, and the answers are to replace the fob batteries as the solution. But that didn’t work in this case. Any other thoughts or possible solutions ? The car is under warranty, but I only want to take it to the dealership if
I have to.
I know this problem has many threads, and the answers are to replace the fob batteries as the solution. But that didn’t work in this case. Any other thoughts or possible solutions ? The car is under warranty, but I only want to take it to the dealership if
I have to.
It's a well-known fact that the cars start displaying wonky behavior when the car batteries get even slightly sub-par.
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 35,045
Likes: 12,411
From: NE South Carolina
I have the same situation in my 2017 Z06..... I replaced the car battery 18 months ago. When the engine is running the digital display shows 14.7-14.8 volts for the battery.
This was my experience re FOB batteries:
Changed my main FOB battery in my 2014 C7 after ~18 months as a “precaution.” After ~1 year that FOB was not opening the door unless I pushed the FOB open button then it would not start the car without being put in the steering wheel slot. Tried the FOB that was never used and just under 3 years old. It also needed to have the open button pushed to open the door.
Checked both batteries using a battery checker I have had for years that puts a "current draw" on the battery depending on voltage and size. Much better than measuring OCV. Both read just barely in the green OK area. Bought new batteries locally and they read strongly in the green area. They worked fine.
Bottom Line: will change my Grand Sport FOB battery at 2 years with a fresh quality replacements, not the cheap ones I bought from Amazon!
PS: If your car amp meter is always showing 14.7/8 volts that could be another problem. You're not putting on enough miles OR you're only driving short distances. Could be the car battery is in a very poor state of charge. For example, if most drives are short you're NOT replacing the amps needed to start the car! Also as the car sits the battery will decrease in charge. Easy check. Put on a battery charger, bring the battery to full charge and see if the problem goes away! Perhaps why you changed the battery in less than a year! A new battery won't help as lead acid batteries deteriorate if they are not kept charged. Although a different type of battery it would be like taking a cell phone with a dead battery, putting in on a charger for 10 minutes where it read a high charging voltage and taking it off after 10 minutes and saying, "MUST be charged!" No way! Lead acid batteries are even worse as once the charge is very low they deteriorate and do that a few times and they can't recover (unlike cell phone batteries that can be fully discharged without deterioration.) Sure your car's alternator shows high voltage BUT the battery is not getting fully charged. you should see the voltage drop to ~ 13 volts indicating a fully charged battery. That might take a 100 mile drive! One check is after the car is parked for 12+ hours (removing the battery surface charge) check the battery voltage with a meter. That will define the state of charge. The table on the left below provides that estimate. I check from under the hood, no need to access the battery. Pull back the rubber boot on the Alternator wire terminal and put the positive meter lead on it and the negative on a bolt head on the chassis for a ground! If you have a "garage queen" you should do what I do with my street rod and have a maintanence charger connected 24/7!
Last edited by JerryU; Sep 23, 2019 at 06:53 AM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 802
Likes: 122
From: Goodyear Arizona
Since I'm the only one driving the car I see no reason to replace the batteries in both fobs, as they need replacement at about the same time interval. After over 4 1/2 years of ownership, my 2nd fob has never been used and probably never will be.
E-Ray, 3LZ, ZER, LIFT
Joined: Sep 2007
Posts: 35,045
Likes: 12,411
From: NE South Carolina
Do as you wish, but I found my 2nd FOB that was in the draw for ~3 years with the OEM battery was also weak!
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 4,304
Likes: 3,202
From: Oro Valley Arizona
Just the Facts
Battery search suggests a CR2032 should have a storage life of 6-8 years. So a #2 fob never used should be the same. I bought a blister pack at Wal Mart the other day. Four Duracell batteries for $9. Package said best used by 2018. But I was in the DIY mood and changed both fobs. I mean why not? It is chump change and 5 minutes. You'd rather prove some arcane point? Hey go for it eh?
Last edited by papillion; Sep 23, 2019 at 04:20 PM.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 444
Likes: 92
From: Truckee, CA
Battery search suggests a CR2032 should have a storage life of 6-8 years. So a #2 fob never used should be the same. I bought a blister pack at Wal Mart the other day. Four Duracell batteries for $9. Package said best used by 2018. But I was in the DIY mood and changed both fobs. I mean why not? It is chump change and 5 minutes. You'd rather prove some arcane point? Hey go for it eh?
Cell phones are similar. If you don't use your cell phone the battery will loose its charge in a few days because the receiver is always on, the same as your fob. If the cell phone battery is being stored outside the phone, the charge will last a year or two.
Last edited by DugT; Sep 23, 2019 at 06:41 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2016
Posts: 4,980
Likes: 3,826
From: Bainbridge Island WA
I have a CTS (same tech) and both batteries went out within a few days of each other--at 4-1/2 years. Fortunately, I had learned how to replace one a few days before so it was a slam dunk and took less than a minute.
Last edited by mschuyler; Sep 23, 2019 at 05:59 PM.
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Michael S. Palmer
Moderator emeritus
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 18,599
Likes: 3,955
From: Jacksonville Florida BWO Dayton, Cincinnati, Bloomsbury NJ, Cincinnati
2015 C7 of the Year Finalist
So you "refuse to replace" the second battery "because you never use it." . Eventually, the first battery will run out. You'll reach for the second Fob so you can drive, and Uh oh! That's dead, too. Now you're stuck.
I have a CTS (same tech) and both batteries went out within a few days of each other--at 4-1/2 years. Fortunately, I had learned how to replace one a few days before so it was a slam dunk and took less than a minute.
I have a CTS (same tech) and both batteries went out within a few days of each other--at 4-1/2 years. Fortunately, I had learned how to replace one a few days before so it was a slam dunk and took less than a minute.
When the battery in the FOB craps out, you put the FOB in the slot, start the car and drive to the store and buy a new FOB battery, you are not stuck. Inconvenienced, maybe, buy not stuck.
Elmer
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 2013
Posts: 26,254
Likes: 4,363
From: Chirper Island
Now might be a good time to remind everyone to check and make sure your physical key actually works in the trunk keyhole.
If your fob battery dies, and the key does not work, THEN you truly would be stuck!
If your fob battery dies, and the key does not work, THEN you truly would be stuck!