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I have a 2015 Z06 with 3,000 miles on it, driven very conservatively and maintained by Chevrolet. I started the car, ran fine but a blank panel. The car was shut off I lifted the fuse box cover and checked the fuses all looked ok. I restarted the car and it ran fine and the dash was still blank. I ran the car for about 5 miles and shut if down for about an hour. The car was again started, no panel, I released the parking brake and the engine went to 6,500 RPM. The manual transmission was in neutral throughout the event, the ignition was shut off and the engine shut down. The can was again started in neutral, panel (blank) same result when the parking brake was released, 6,500 RPM and ignition was shut down successfully. I started the car once more and moved mode selector from sport to Touring and released the parking brake and was able to drive the car home with no dash (blank). The next day I again started the car and had no panel and shut it down.
Has this been and issue in the past? Any thoughts on the issue would be appreciated. I believe it is an electrical issue related the to panel and connected to display and switched associated items.
Last edited by SlickCarbon; Dec 3, 2018 at 12:23 PM.
Reason: miss spelling
You got it some good $$ for it hope it is under warr. I have seen & heard of all you are saying here other then the rpm going to 6500 every time. Get it into the dealer.. Robert
2015 Z06 Same owner since new 3,000 miles, always garaged in Southern California. Never even washed, speed wax and covered. Panel lights not functioning, start and release brake engine speeds beyond 3000 RPM. This a 7 SPD stick, car is in neutral, ignition shut off immediately. Restarted , same problem. Anyone heard of a problem like this?
There car's computers are very sensitive to battery issues. It might be as simple as your battery is marginal. You can have the battery tested at most any auto parts store. My battery developed a dead cell just after one year. Many, Many battery threads here. They now have direct fit AGM batteries, and I got one that was just like OEM except it hand handles that make it much easier to remove and install!
There car's computers are very sensitive to battery issues. It might be as simple as your battery is marginal. You can have the battery tested at most any auto parts store. My battery developed a dead cell just after one year. Many, Many battery threads here. They now have direct fit AGM batteries, and I got one that was just like OEM except it hand handles that make it much easier to remove and install!
^^^^ I agree, 3 years... your battery may be going dead, I put in a 800 cold cranking amp battery, 300 over the stock CCA... below zero cold is hard on a battery in my area, 17 degrees this morning
Yes on the battery too. My 14 Z51 battery lasted 2 years, kaput. Replaced free under warranty. Those of you experiencing unusual electronic issues should always look the the battery as the problem even if it tests good.
There car's computers are very sensitive to battery issues. It might be as simple as your battery is marginal. You can have the battery tested at most any auto parts store. My battery developed a dead cell just after one year. Many, Many battery threads here. They now have direct fit AGM batteries, and I got one that was just like OEM except it hand handles that make it much easier to remove and install!
Plus, battery lugs and battery cables. ALL can be a potential problem, even with the best battery... guess how I know?
Only one example... I had what looked to be a perfect cable with the typical cast-on battery connector. LOOOONG story short (literally), the cable in the connector had loosened enough (faulty manufacturing?) to allow the internal contact to corrode and be completely undetectable from the outside (I cut it apart). It would work perfectly and test fine for a week... then, it wouldn't, then it would. So, the moral is YOUR problem could be almost anything electrical from the highest to the lowest tech parts/connectors.