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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 06:18 PM
  #41  
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it isn't the norm for techs to diagnose correctly and track down multiple issues, so you definitely have a good one, OP.
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 08:58 PM
  #42  
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A good tech will sometimes be seen just staring at a problem car, thinking through the possibilities instead of standing at the parts counter.

I know one that gets on this Forum if someone brings him an aftermarket parts problem he hasn't experienced before.
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Old Dec 7, 2018 | 09:08 PM
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My car is at Hendrick Chevrolet in Southpoint, NC. I've always been very happy with the service. They only have their Master Mechanic work on my car. I consider myself fortunate.
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 11:36 AM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Bravo Flyer
Does anyone know what the basic problem is and why the Z06 fan fixes it? I have a 2014 Stingray which overheated at slow speed on surface streets just after a 2 hour drive at 70mph. The dealer changed the water pump. The car had only 24k miles on it. Now I’m wondering if it was due to this fan problem described here and not the water pump at all.
I agree, I do not think it had anything to do with the water pump but maybe it was also bad... All I had to do was drive over 50 miles without stopping and then stop and leave it running, mine would overheat within 4 minutes... easy to do and then take it back to them and tell them they did not fix the problem as it is the fan... if you can do the 50 mile trip and stop at the service desk and let it overheat there, I let mine get to 245 degrees before I shut it down and restarted and the fan kicked on, the service adviser and a tech was there...
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 11:55 AM
  #45  
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Originally Posted by Gearhead Jim
A good tech will sometimes be seen just staring at a problem car, thinking through the possibilities instead of standing at the parts counter.

I know one that gets on this Forum if someone brings him an aftermarket parts problem he hasn't experienced before.
That's kind of an interesting observation.
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Old Dec 8, 2018 | 10:30 PM
  #46  
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I will be very interested to know how the fan swap goes. I am mechanically challenged but if you can provide tips I will try it.
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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 02:59 PM
  #47  
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Would this issue be covered under the power train warranty (mine is good for 5y/100k)?
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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 03:25 PM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
Not enough to have to get a fan that beats the Z06 fan. I'm talking track sessions and long ones.


Elmer

v0v the fan is pretty much useless (any of them) for track sessions.
The fan only really matters when you come in off track and you're sitting in impound or in your paddock spot.

eta: been through two water pumps and the overflow reservoir hose assembly failed at nationals as the alternator pulley ripped a hole in it.

Last edited by lobsterroboto; Dec 9, 2018 at 03:26 PM.
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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 10:57 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Bavaria
Would this issue be covered under the power train warranty (mine is good for 5y/100k)?
My extended warranty covered it but it wasn't the powertrain warranty.
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Old Dec 9, 2018 | 11:29 PM
  #50  
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Has this issue been corrected for the 2019 model year Stingray? From what I have been reading on this forum I have been almost kicking myself for buying my new Stingray. My 2008 Corvette never gave me any problems at all buying it new and owning it 5 years and 35,000 miles. I sold it in 2013 and missed a Vette ever since. So now I buy a new 2019 and back on this forum again and that's all I see is problems with the A8 transmission and now the cooling fan. So now I need to buy a range module so my new Corvette doesn't go into 4 cyl mode and destroy my transmission and a Z06 cooling fan so it doesn't overheat! With 800 miles on it I'm already thinking about trading it!
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 12:30 AM
  #51  
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Originally Posted by Bavaria
Would this issue be covered under the power train warranty (mine is good for 5y/100k)?
The fan is not covered under power train.
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 05:06 AM
  #52  
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Originally Posted by gmarcucio
Has this issue been corrected for the 2019 model year Stingray? From what I have been reading on this forum I have been almost kicking myself for buying my new Stingray. My 2008 Corvette never gave me any problems at all buying it new and owning it 5 years and 35,000 miles. I sold it in 2013 and missed a Vette ever since. So now I buy a new 2019 and back on this forum again and that's all I see is problems with the A8 transmission and now the cooling fan. So now I need to buy a range module so my new Corvette doesn't go into 4 cyl mode and destroy my transmission and a Z06 cooling fan so it doesn't overheat! With 800 miles on it I'm already thinking about trading it!
Easy now, you will love the range device, it makes the C7 sound great at all times... The fan will be fine for at least 4 years, that is how long the 2014 fans last and they changed the part number on the later year fans.. I have only heard of 1 2015 fan going out/falling asleep on long trips....

Read and enjoy the forum and your new C7, tuck some of these problems away in the back of you head, it saved me when I read about this exact event about 2 months before it happened to me...
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 08:53 AM
  #53  
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Originally Posted by gmarcucio
Has this issue been corrected for the 2019 model year Stingray? From what I have been reading on this forum I have been almost kicking myself for buying my new Stingray. My 2008 Corvette never gave me any problems at all buying it new and owning it 5 years and 35,000 miles. I sold it in 2013 and missed a Vette ever since. So now I buy a new 2019 and back on this forum again and that's all I see is problems with the A8 transmission and now the cooling fan. So now I need to buy a range module so my new Corvette doesn't go into 4 cyl mode and destroy my transmission and a Z06 cooling fan so it doesn't overheat! With 800 miles on it I'm already thinking about trading it!
2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, 2014 MY, for the fan issue.

2015 & 2016 MY for the Torque Converter.


Relax and drive your car!


Elmer

Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; Dec 10, 2018 at 08:55 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 09:38 AM
  #54  
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Reading all these post leads me to believe it is not the fan, but the fan controller or the wiring.
Possibly the controller is in the wiring associated with fan swap but I would be surprised if it was. Or possibly the factory wiring is at fault.

I would think if you can get a shop manual and determine where the temperature monitor/fan switch and wiring is you would be able to solve this problem for a lot cheaper.

Last edited by Travelor; Dec 10, 2018 at 09:40 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 10:00 AM
  #55  
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Originally Posted by Travelor
Reading all these post leads me to believe it is not the fan, but the fan controller or the wiring.
Possibly the controller is in the wiring associated with fan swap but I would be surprised if it was. Or possibly the factory wiring is at fault.

I would think if you can get a shop manual and determine where the temperature monitor/fan switch and wiring is you would be able to solve this problem for a lot cheaper.
I don't think it's the fan either. Problem is you can't buy a "piece" to replace the controller. To replace the controller, you get the whole enchilada: fan, controller, and shroud as a unit. I've had the dealer check the functionality of the fan and their tests say EVERYTHING is working properly. Well, SOMETHING is not working properly 100% of the time on a bunch of 2014 cars.

I plan on my fan swap on Tuesday. I'll try to remember to take pictures to show the shroud swap on the 2014s.


Elmer
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 10:01 AM
  #56  
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Probably connecting a scanner to the car and monitoring engine temperature and fan request should give some insight as to where the problem is if you're not sure if it's the fan or the fan relay. I've seen where the fan relay has lost it's ground through a bulkhead connector on its way to the PCM therefore shutting the fan off. In that situation its neither a bad fan or the relay but a relay that has lost it's ground through a connector. Some systems rely on the PCM to ground the relay when it receives a fan request from the various sensors such as the coolant sensor, AC sensor or Vehicle speed sensor. A service manual and a scanner would be the place to start if I was attempting to diagnose the problem.
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 10:08 AM
  #57  
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Wonder if just the act of unplugging and "re=plugging" the fan wiring might cure the problem and that my be how the new fan is "curing" the fan problem.
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 10:09 AM
  #58  
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Originally Posted by gmarcucio
Probably connecting a scanner to the car and monitoring engine temperature and fan request should give some insight as to where the problem is if you're not sure if it's the fan or the fan relay. I've seen where the fan relay has lost it's ground through a bulkhead connector on its way to the PCM therefore shutting the fan off. In that situation its neither a bad fan or the relay but a relay that has lost it's ground through a connector. Some systems rely on the PCM to ground the relay when it receives a fan request from the various sensors such as the coolant sensor, AC sensor or Vehicle speed sensor. A service manual and a scanner would be the place to start if I was attempting to diagnose the problem.
This post will fall on deaf ears, in spite of it being correct.
Way to advanced for this forum.
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 10:09 AM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by gmarcucio
Probably connecting a scanner to the car and monitoring engine temperature and fan request should give some insight as to where the problem is if you're not sure if it's the fan or the fan relay. I've seen where the fan relay has lost it's ground through a bulkhead connector on its way to the PCM therefore shutting the fan off. In that situation its neither a bad fan or the relay but a relay that has lost it's ground through a connector. Some systems rely on the PCM to ground the relay when it receives a fan request from the various sensors such as the coolant sensor, AC sensor or Vehicle speed sensor. A service manual and a scanner would be the place to start if I was attempting to diagnose the problem.

Good plan! I have the manuals but I don't plan on purchasing a scanner. I let the dealer do the scanning with his tools. The problem is hard to see as it will come clear with the stop and restart of the engine. With the engine temp spiking, it is difficult if not impossible to get the car to the dealer in "trouble" mode. It is rare to be able to get to the dealer with the trouble event ocurring and not lock up your engine. I know that I have an issue, I can't get it repaired unless the dealer sees and confirms that there is an issue, so I have 3 choices:

1) Do nothing and live with the condition until it is so bad the dealer can replicate it at the dealership and get it fixed under warranty
2) Have the dealer replace the fan/shroud/controller for $700 - $800 out of my pocket.
3) Buy the F/S/C and replace it in my garage and save the labor charge.

I picked 3

Elmer

Last edited by eboggs_jkvl; Dec 10, 2018 at 10:16 AM.
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Old Dec 10, 2018 | 10:51 AM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by eboggs_jkvl
Good plan! I have the manuals but I don't plan on purchasing a scanner. I let the dealer do the scanning with his tools. The problem is hard to see as it will come clear with the stop and restart of the engine. With the engine temp spiking, it is difficult if not impossible to get the car to the dealer in "trouble" mode. It is rare to be able to get to the dealer with the trouble event ocurring and not lock up your engine. I know that I have an issue, I can't get it repaired unless the dealer sees and confirms that there is an issue, so I have 3 choices:

1) Do nothing and live with the condition until it is so bad the dealer can replicate it at the dealership and get it fixed under warranty
2) Have the dealer replace the fan/shroud/controller for $700 - $800 out of my pocket.
3) Buy the F/S/C and replace it in my garage and save the labor charge.

I picked 3

Elmer
I certainly understand your reasoning for choosing #3. Especially when the problem does not occur all of the time. Even if someone was to use a scanner they would have to drive it with the scanner connected until the problem occurred and then recapture the data for review. Which would probably cost you a fortune for them to do. Good luck with this, it's tough problem!
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