Where to Align?
Last edited by Zjoe6; Dec 19, 2018 at 10:21 PM.

(they do just fine with 'em)
Last edited by TXSteveF; Dec 19, 2018 at 10:31 PM.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
The critical issue with the rear suspension is setting castor. The dealer should be able to do this but ask the specific question, "can you properly measure and adjust rear castor" ?
Camber setting on the front should be close to zero, if not at zero, on a street car where tire wear is the primary issue.
Works for me! I only use Firestone.That would be my first test. If they do not have (or refuse to get) all the necessary tools, move on.
It's really quite that simple. No CH-47960-10? They can't align it.
Very few have the tool. Even several GM dealerships don't have it. I'm fortunate that mine does.
Last edited by joemessman; Dec 20, 2018 at 12:22 PM.






Our local dealer tech knew all about it but the boss hadn't bought the tools because nobody had ever asked. Hmmm...
But as soon as I did ask, they got the tools in a couple of days and did my alignment, with rear caster, right away. Little or no additional charge.
My rear caster was exactly at factory spec, but I've heard mention of some cars being significantly off.
Some people are adamant that a different rear caster setting improves handling, but I don't have a place to properly test and so I went with stock. Seems to work well on the road and in autocross.
(EDIT: Joe types faster than me. Also has excellent taste in C7 colors)
Last edited by Gearhead Jim; Dec 20, 2018 at 12:26 PM.




To make the measurements GM recommends the following tools:
Digital Angle Gauge, CH-47960 (specified for Solstice and Skye, recommended for C7)
Digital Angle Gauge Adapter, CH-47960-10 (specified for C7)
Any sufficiently accurate digital angle gauge (0.1 degree accuracy) can be used instead of the CH-47960. The GM tool just makes things a lot easier to do since the directions are clear when it comes to zeroing the gauge depending on which side of the car you are working on.
Some people have substituted two 1/4 inch bolts for the gauge adapter and that seems to work but that means the mechanic has to hold a gauge that is long enough to bridge between the two bolts while trying to adjust the cams on the lower control arms while also looking toward the alignment machine's readout of rear camber at the same time. Imagine doing the left rear, the mechanic holds the gauge against the two bolts with the left hand while using the right hand to turn the lca cams while watching the rear digital angle gauge for the caster measurement while simultaneously watching the alignment machine's rear camber measurement to get the two adjustments set right. A little awkward but doable if you don't want to pay $200 for the adapter. When you are paying by the hour for somebody to do this it is a lot easier to have the proper tools available.
I recently had an on track incident where the right rear of my car hit a tire wall at a pretty good speed. Damage was limited to bolt on body parts and the right rear suspension. They had to replace the uca, lca, knuckle, wheel hub and the toe link. That meant the alignment had to be redone. The body shop had a neat Hunter Alignment machine but it had no provisions for doing rear caster. I talked to the manager of the body shop and the mechanic doing the work about rear caster and told them I had the tools to do the measurements. The mechanic used my tools and was able to get the settings I wanted without much trouble. It took an extra hour to balance the rear camber/rear caster adjustments to get the numbers I wanted for both.
GM says rear caster is good at each wheel if it falls into the range of negative 0.8 to positive 0.8. They don't specify a Cross Caster like they do for the front caster measurement. However, since a proper rear caster setting helps to reduce rear bump steer various track experts say rear caster should be set at positive 0.7 on both sides of the car for best handling.
You will find that a number of Chevy shops will know about the rear caster adjustment and have the tools to do the job. Others may know about it and won't have the tools because they don't want to do the adjustment as it takes extra time. For dealerships that don't have the tools they can borrow them from GM through the dealer loan program. Almost 100% of the independent shops will have no idea what you are talking about when you first talk to them.
It really isn't about the shop you go to so much as finding a shop with a mechanic that cares to do the job properly (not a green and go job) and has the tools available to do the job properly. That could be a Tire Store, Joe Blow's garage or the dealership. If I can do it with a couple hundred dollars of toos and by crawling around under the car sitting on my garage floor a trained mechanic should have no issues doing it using $30K worth of fancy equipment.
Bill
That would be my first test. If they do not have (or refuse to get) all the necessary tools, move on.
It's really quite that simple. No CH-47960-10? They can't align it.
Very few have the tool. Even several GM dealerships don't have it. I'm fortunate that mine does.














