Good God Almighty......has ANYONE removed the rivets on a C7???
01-12-2019, 09:28 PM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Good God Almighty......has ANYONE removed the rivets on a C7???
I have spent hours researching this topic on this site, YouTube, and on Google. I must be the ONLY human on the planet that has a 2018 C7 Grand Sport with the factory Stage 1 aero that was attached with rivets instead of screws. Or maybe I am the only one that has attempted to remove factory aero installed in this manner. No one describes what they did or how best to remove those damn rivets. Despite countless searches, I cannot find ONE video of how to remove these rivets without damaging the vehicle or what precautions to take. I am trying to install carbon fiber Stage 3 splitter, side skirts, and rear spoiler from APR Performance. The factory 3/4 length side skirts have a few screws and about seven rivets holding them in place. Before I ruin my car armed with a drill, has ANYONE ever done this? I am so pissed that Chevrolet felt compelled to install their crappy factory aero in this manner.....at least on my car....
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01-12-2019, 09:42 PM
#5
Burning Brakes
I’ve removed the factory rivets and it’s no that difficult, just tedious. Use a drill bit slightly larger than the diameter of the hole on the outside facing rivet and drill through it until the rivet ball pops out. You’ll know when it pops out when the drill bit goes all the at through. If you’re lucky the rivet will come undone and can easily be removed. Most times it’ll still be stuck on, so you’ll need to use a side cutters to pry and twist the rivet button away. Basically any method to separate and remove the rivet. The only thing holding it together at this point is the little bit of mangled metal the you drilled through.
Last edited by Pineapple; 01-12-2019 at 09:43 PM.
01-12-2019, 09:43 PM
#6
Moderator
Yeah you're making too much out of it. You just drill them out. If you need extra holes drill them. The real issue is can an LT1 pull stage 3 aero? On a track that is? It may hurt top speed.
Last edited by Zjoe6; 01-12-2019 at 09:44 PM.
01-12-2019, 10:01 PM
#7
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Thanks for the replies guys but my concern is what might be behind those rivets that I might drill into? Wiring, tubing, etc? What size drill bit do you recommend using? Has anyone used a Dremel with a cutoff wheel?
01-12-2019, 10:21 PM
#8
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Thanks for posting the video and the rest of the information. Will keep this for future reference.
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lakemg (01-12-2019)
01-12-2019, 10:21 PM
#9
Just stop the drill once you immediately get through the rivet and don't push the bit in any further. As long as you only go about 1/4 into the rivet, you should be good and not need to worry about hitting anything. Perhaps you could put some kind of collar on the drill bit so that it only drills 1/4" or so into the rivet and stops going any further, but you should be able to easily minimize drilling too far in.
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01-12-2019, 10:22 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
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You only drill into the rivet the thickness of the rivet head. If you are paranoid, put a piece of tape on the drill bit marking about 1/8 of an inch. It is not rocket science.
Cutting off with a Dremel or cut off wheel will be WAY more risky and will basically guarantee you will scuff the paint.
Cutting off with a Dremel or cut off wheel will be WAY more risky and will basically guarantee you will scuff the paint.
01-12-2019, 11:30 PM
#11
Race Director
You guys all saying "drill them out" are making it sound too easy; at least as often as not, the rivet body will start to spin in the hole.
The OP may have to use a grinder on the exposed head if the rivet body starts spinning with the drill bit, in spite of the risks.
The OP may have to use a grinder on the exposed head if the rivet body starts spinning with the drill bit, in spite of the risks.
01-12-2019, 11:38 PM
#12
Tech Contributor
You guys all saying "drill them out" are making it sound too easy; at least as often as not, the rivet body will start to spin in the hole.
The OP may have to use a grinder on the exposed head if the rivet body starts spinning with the drill bit, in spite of the risks.
The OP may have to use a grinder on the exposed head if the rivet body starts spinning with the drill bit, in spite of the risks.
So yes, it really is that easy.
Last edited by 96GS#007; 01-12-2019 at 11:39 PM.
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01-12-2019, 11:38 PM
#13
Burning Brakes
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I use a flat screw driver to hold pressure on the rivet while drilling, rarely do I have an issue of them spinning. I am also using a good carbide bit.If, I have one that spins, I take a small thin chisel and carefully wedge between body and rivet head putting slight pressure and this almost always eliminates the spinning. I also put a piece of tape on the body where the chisel will be against the paint. This helps in keeping any scuffing from happening.
I have NEVER been able to grind without causing damage.
I have NEVER been able to grind without causing damage.
01-12-2019, 11:48 PM
#14
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1. Get a drill stop if u are uncomfortable. This will stop the drill bit before u go too deep.
2. Use a drill bit a few sizes bigger than the stem of the rivet. Drill the head until it pops off and then use a punch and hammer to push the worked end of the rivet into the hole.
3. If it starts to spin try to wedge something between the head and the body to keep it from spinning. A screwdriver blade or pinch with some needle nose.
2. Use a drill bit a few sizes bigger than the stem of the rivet. Drill the head until it pops off and then use a punch and hammer to push the worked end of the rivet into the hole.
3. If it starts to spin try to wedge something between the head and the body to keep it from spinning. A screwdriver blade or pinch with some needle nose.
01-12-2019, 11:48 PM
#15
Race Director
Side cutters under the head just a little keep them from spinning. 3/16” bit or one size up pops them right off. A light tap with a punch pops the shank out. Takes 10 minutes to remove the Stage 1 splitter. Same technique can be used on the side skirts.
So yes, it really is that easy.
I use a flat screw driver to hold pressure on the rivet while drilling, rarely do I have an issue of them spinning. I am also using a good carbide bit.If, I have one that spins, I take a small thin chisel and carefully wedge between body and rivet head putting slight pressure and this almost always eliminates the spinning. I also put a piece of tape on the body where the chisel will be against the paint. This helps in keeping any scuffing from happening.
I have NEVER been able to grind without causing damage.
I have NEVER been able to grind without causing damage.
01-12-2019, 11:59 PM
#16
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Are you using an older dull bit, no lubrication or possibly too small of bit? I am not being sarcastic, obviously there is an issue and we would like to help.
Again, if you attempt to grind them off, you are 99% chance you will scuff the paint. (At least it would be if I tried it.)
01-13-2019, 12:08 AM
#17
Race Director
I am confused as to why you appear to have such issues in just drilling them out? I have done it hundreds of times with no issues. What are you doing or using that causes them to spin on a regular basis? and why if they spin do you have issues holding them.
Are you using an older dull bit, no lubrication or possibly too small of bit? I am not being sarcastic, obviously there is an issue and we would like to help.
Again, if you attempt to grind them off, you are 99% chance you will scuff the paint. (At least it would be if I tried it.)
Are you using an older dull bit, no lubrication or possibly too small of bit? I am not being sarcastic, obviously there is an issue and we would like to help.
Again, if you attempt to grind them off, you are 99% chance you will scuff the paint. (At least it would be if I tried it.)
OP should consider himself lucky if that plan works out as stated.
You can bet I don't love the idea of grinding on them either, but the OP needs to go into this with a realistic understanding of what it is he is getting himself into.
Btw … The youtube video posted above is pretty misleading because the rivet body is installed in plate steel, so the sides of the rivet have something to really hold it in place. Plastic, fiberglass, sheet metal ect... will not be nearly as forgiving.
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; 01-13-2019 at 12:29 AM.
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Landru (01-13-2019)
01-13-2019, 12:36 AM
#19
The problem with drilling out rivets as most have found out is that the drill catches the rivet head and it spins..
I work on over the road trucks. Had a situation where we had to replace a lot of lights
at rear of sleeper with led lights. LOT's of rivets.
Did some digging and found a company that makes an awesome tool for the job. Some may not want
to spend the money for it since you may only be doing a few rivets but it works great. The end of the
tool grips the head of the rivet to keep it from spinning.
Anyway, just another option for tools. There are a couple different ones.
https://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=1341S
I work on over the road trucks. Had a situation where we had to replace a lot of lights
at rear of sleeper with led lights. LOT's of rivets.
Did some digging and found a company that makes an awesome tool for the job. Some may not want
to spend the money for it since you may only be doing a few rivets but it works great. The end of the
tool grips the head of the rivet to keep it from spinning.
Anyway, just another option for tools. There are a couple different ones.
https://www.aircraft-tool.com/shop/detail.aspx?id=1341S
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01-13-2019, 01:12 AM
#20
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But, if not already mentioned, if using a regular bit, also use a good drill-stop on it. 