is it safe to use wheel cribs and can you jack up 1 side at a time when using wheel cribs

 

reviving this old thread. I have 4 race ramp brand wheel cribs. I want to get my C7 up on all 4 to do the x pipe. Wondering what the best process is? Jack up one side from the jacking puck point, put down two cribs, then go do the other side? I know many people have built the wooden cribs, how do you jack the car up on to them? thanks

 

I use two floor jacks, one on each side (driver and passenger). Bring the front up as evenly as possible, so jack up the drivers side 2" then repeat on the passenger side, once high enough you can slide in the ramps or cribs. Then repeat on the rear. Do this with the car in gear and the parking brake on so it doesn't roll. If you bring the rear up first then you must chock the front wheels since they are free spinning.

 

This is exactly what I did. I have the 2 piece cribs so I did the first height all the way around and then the final height. Broke down and bought a QuickJack a couple of years ago and now I put the cribs under the wheels instead of using jack stands for extra protection.

 

This would be the way I would do it.

 

I think it would be easier to jack front to back vs wide to side.

 

Do the front first & then the back to be safe

 

I do not have wheel cribs and jacking on them does not sound like a good idea.

Ok, I'm the horse of a different color. I place two low rise ramps down then place 2x8 4 ft long on the ramps in front of the front tires. Then place 2x8 4ft long on the ground right in front of the rear tires. Back up and then drive forward. I feel the rear tires come up on the boards and go about 2-3 ft. Stop, set brake and then jack & jack stand the front then the rear done.

 

Technically the chassis is stiff enough to get 3 wheels off the ground by only using one jacking location. However the car will be at angle most would find unsettling. The problem I find with doing one side at a time is the wheels are at angle which makes it hard to judge where they will finally rest on the cribs because the car is tipped and the suspension droops slightly. Plus with skirts its hard to see the pucks on the opposite side.

Doing the front first keeps the car level and allows the rear tires, which are locked by the transmission and parking brake, to ensure nothing moves. The car naturally pivots on the wheels so going front to back doesn't introduced any weird angles between the floor jack saddle and jacking pucks. Of course this method requires two jacks, takes more room and time, but in the end its what I am most comfortable with.

I use the above method for inserting ramps (which are too steep to drive onto) for oil changes or positioning jack stands on the subframes for brake work. One of the best systems I've seen, aside from a QuickJack lift, is this: http://www.jackpointjackstands.com/

 

I'm using home made wheel cribs. They're sturdy and I'm comfortable with getting underneath the car while it's up on the cribs. They're also "2 piece": meaning 2 separate sections for each crib. I use one floor jack, lift one side at a time (on jack pucks) to the lower section, then repeat the process while inserting the 2nd sections. Takes a little longer to complete but so what. I'm not a professional that's on the clock. When lowering back down, same process in reverse. Well worth the effort when you know that your oil changes are done correctly. (although to be honest...a Quick Jack has to be easier)

 

One of my track buddies uses a similar set up in his garage for his Miata and BMW. They have 3 levels to get the car high enough to remove the transmission. Doing it in sections allows for short, control lifts without any extreme angles - great setup plus the wheels are automatically chocked at all times so it ain't rolling away

 

I keep thinking about this myself, what would work better for me, the Quickjack or getting a set of the RR cribs for the times I want to get it higher off the ground.

 

QuickJack will lift it slightly less than 2 feet. Plenty of room to change fluids from a creeper, detail the lower portions of the car, change tires/wheels and brakes. It does take time to set it up. I get the rails in place with blocks and jacking pucks, get the pump hooked up, raise it a little (just touching) and check again, then I check it again when the tires are about to lift off. It is probably 15 minutes before I am ready to get under the car. The QJ has mechanical locks so the car is not supported by hydraulics making it much safer. Fitting it under the car isn't a problem, I have my C7 lowered all the way on the stock bolts and I have side skirts and I still have about an inch between the pucks and the small rubber blocks. I have started using secondary supports for added safety if I'm going to be under the car but it really isn't necessary. No different than a lift. The rails are also heavy (75 lbs. each for 5000SLX) but they have wheels for moving them around and they slide easily to get them in position. I store mine right under the car. If you are considering purchasing them I would recommend the extended length version. I've been reading that the regular length is a little too short for the C8's.

Pros:
Very stable, simple to use, decent lift (~22"), 2 locked heights

Cons:
Setup time, weight, cost, limited lift (~22")


Stored under center of car (see rear)

On the lower of the 2 locking height positions.

 

Used the race ramp wheel cribs for the first time for an oil change. Great product

 

Personally I prefer JackPoint Jackstands.

 

92_383LT4 those are the same wheel cribs I have. glad to see they are wide enough for the z06/gs wheel.

What process did you use to get them up there with the floor jack? side to side or back to front?

 

Here’s another option. These cross-brace adapters allow you to jack the front or back using ONE jack from a single jacking point. I just happen to be selling this set that has never been used.🤓

 

I already had a normal size and a small size HF aluminum jack. After about a year w/ my C7 I grabbed another small one on sale. I use the two small ones at the front frame/puck locations and the large jack at the rear subframe w/ a 2x6.
by https://www.flickr.com/photos/152454123@N04/, on Flickr
The two tabs on the end fit into the cavity just inside the control arms so the board stays locked in proper position.
It takes a little time because I only lift each jack maybe 1-1.5 inches at a time. But this way I don't end up w/ much weird angle. Just changing tires I don't bother w/ jack stands but, if I am going to work under it, I set several stands at frame points. Sorry, I don't know why I get double pics.

 

Is this the 12" set ?

 

front to back. Emergency brake enabled.
started on left front — right front — right rear — left rear.

I did notice that when jacking up the right rear, the right front slightly lifted above the right front crib again.

removal LR — RR & RF (since Front went of the ground again) & LF