Inspections emissions hell...Help
- The ignition voltage between 11–18 volts.
- The barometric pressure (BARO) is more than 75 kPa.
- The start-up engine coolant temperature (ECT) is between 4–30°C (39–86°F).
- The start-up intake air temperature (IAT) is between 4–30°C (39–86°F).
- The difference between the IAT and the ECT is less than or equal to 6°C (10.8°F).
- The ambient air temperature is between 4–30°C (39–86°F).
- The fuel level is between 15–85 percent.
Inspection/Maintenance (I/M) System Set Procedure
Note: Whenever the ignition is turned ON, ignition positive voltage is supplied to the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) heaters. After verifying the enable criteria, turn OFF the ignition for approximately 5 minutes to allow the sensors to cool before continuing with the test. Once the engine is started, do NOT turn the engine OFF for the remaining portion of the set procedure.
Note: DO NOT touch the accelerator pedal during the idle period. A change in TP sensor angle or an increase in engine speed may invalidate this portion of the test.
Warning: Refer to Road Test Warning
Note: Do NOT disturb the vehicle or turn ON the ignition until told to do so. Disturbing the vehicle may invalidate this portion of the test.
- Ensure that the vehicle meets the conditions for a cold start listed above.
- The evaporative emission (EVAP) I/M System Status indicator should display YES.
- If the EVAP I/M System Status indicator displays NO, perform the EVAP Service Bay Test, if applicable. If the EVAP Service Bay Test is NOT available, it may take up to 6 drive cycles, with up to 17 hours between drive cycles, for the EVAP I/M System Status indicator to transition to YES.
- The O2S Heater I/M System Status indicator should display YES.
- If the O2S Heater I/M System Status indicator displays NO, ensure that the ignition has been turned OFF for at least 10 hours.
- Turn OFF all accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc.
- Set the vehicle parking brake and ensure the vehicle is in Park for automatic transmission or Neutral for manual transmission.
- Turn OFF all accessories; HVAC system, other electrical loads, including aftermarket/add-on equipment, etc.
- Start and idle the engine for at least 2 minutes and until 65°C (149°F) is achieved.
- Run the engine for 6.5 minutes within the following conditions:
- MAF parameter between 4–30 g/s
- Engine speed steady between 1,000–3,000 RPM
- Return the engine to idle for 1 minute.
- Apply and hold the brake pedal, and shift to Drive for automatic transmission, or apply the clutch pedal for manual transmission and operate the vehicle within the following conditions for 2 minutes:
- Depress the accelerator pedal until throttle position (TP) sensor angle is more than 2 percent.
- Mass air flow (MAF) signal between 15–30 g/s
- RPM steady between 1,200–2,000 RPM
- Release the accelerator pedal and shift the vehicle to Park for automatic transmission, or Neutral and release the clutch pedal for manual transmission, and allow the engine to idle for 2 minutes.
- Quickly depress the accelerator pedal until TP sensor angle is more than 8 percent and return to idle, repeat 3 times.
- Allow engine to idle for at least 2 minutes.
- Release the parking brake and drive vehicle at 24 km/h (15 mph) or slower for 2 minutes.
- Continue to drive the vehicle for at least 5.5 miles between 45–112 km/h (28–70 mph) with the vehicle reaching at least 80 km/h (50 mph).
- Release the accelerator pedal for at least 2 seconds. This will allow the vehicle to enter decel fuel cut-off.
- Depress the accelerator pedal until the TP sensor angle is increased 3–20 percent and maintain a safe speed for 1 minute.
- Safely stop the vehicle, with the engine in Drive for automatic transmission or in Neutral with the clutch pedal depressed and parking brake applied for manual transmission, idle for 2 minutes.
- Shift to Park for automatic and apply the parking brake, or neutral and release clutch pedal for manual.
- Turn OFF the ignition and exit the vehicle. Do NOT disturb the vehicle for 60 minutes.
We test OBD in NY so these drive procedures are nothing new to me. Some cars set in one drive, say 20-40 miles, some cars set in a few days over 100-200 miles. I did a C6 GS once in one trip, and less than 20 miles.
Most important part is meeting the cold start criteria and the fuel level.
Last edited by Newdude; Apr 15, 2019 at 05:27 PM.
If you only need to scan codes and check readiness monitors, an inexpensive Bluetooth adapter from Amazon/fleaBay will work. The BAFX one is a pretty good basic bluetooth OBD-II adapter. If you want to use it for data logging to check your tune and other more advanced diagnostic functions, the OBD-Link MX (or MX Plus) or any other OBD-II to Bluetooth adapter that uses a Genuine ELM chipset will perform better than the cheaper "Chinese clone" adapters. The major difference between the genuine ELM chipsets and the clone (other than price) is their speed at requesting and getting data from the PCM. The clone adapters typically get under 30 updates per second, and the genuine chips can hit 100 updates per second or more. The clone adapters are <$30, the Torque Pro app is $5. The faster adapters are $70 to $100.
Most FLAPSs can also use their code reader/scan tool to verify the readiness monitor tests are completed and the vehicle is ready to pass emissions testing.
Also, there's nothing special about emissions testing. It's universal for all makes and models. I would never take my vehicle to a test site at a dealership or shop that might be able to sell services and/or parts to me if I fail the test. Take it to an independent shop that does testing and doesn't work on Corvettes, or if you have to have it tested at a dealership, take it to a Honda or Toyota dealership that can't possibly profit from failing you.
Last edited by C6_Racer_X; Apr 15, 2019 at 08:00 PM.
I love the Range. But take the Range out for a bit and I'll bet you'll pass with flying colors. My Range was back in before I started home from the inspection station.















