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Why would one buy a 2020 Vette with a 3lt dash when GM can not fix all the bad c7 that are out there, Thanks guys.
Given what we have seen with the C7 I wouldn't risk it.
Its sad but hard, boring, cheap plastic interiors hold up forever. Leather, microfiber, aluminum, carbon fiber and other fancy stuff or soft touch materials tend to fail over time or with repeated use. I've experienced this with other OEMs, for example: VW = door fabric sagged over time, soft touch plastic peeled badly. Nissan / Infiniti = aluminum trim dented and scratched very easily.
Like many others I had problems with the area behind the HUD bubbling up as well as the Upper Dash Trim bubbling. The upper dash trim is
easily removed and can be replaced for a little more than 360.00. The bubbling of the black area behind the HUD is much more difficult and requires removal
of the dash. I had been offered a 1/2 price goodwill replacement, which would still be a little more than 1700.00.
Having nothing to lose, I removed the upper dash trim to experiment. Removing the trim meant I could see any possible damage I may do quickly, but to also
make it easier to work.
I did not take any photos as I worked, my bad, but those that have the bubbling will know what I am talking about.
Tools used: A small squeegee used to smooth XPel or any PPF. The squeegees are very smooth and heat resistant. They are also very slick, so little drag on the leather.
Hair dryer. Heat guns are much hotter, and I felt too much of a risk.
I placed the upper dash trim in my lap and heated the leather with the hair dryer on high. This took very little time as I moved the dryer evenly back and forth, to evenly
heat the leather.
Using the squeegee, I pushed the bubbles towards the stitching on the leather. The bubbles moved easily. Now I smoothed the leather with side by side strokes
always pushing towards the seam. The bubbles disappeared as the leather is pushed back to the substrate. This whole process took 1-2 minutes. Allow to cool.
There was no heat damage to the leather, and the finished product looked new. I could have done the repair with the trim in place and not removed it.
The area behind the HUD worked just as well. I heated the area with the hair dryer from the sides. I did not want large amounts of heat moving towards the windshield. It probably
should not effect it, but these windshields are not thick and who knows.
While heating the area, I pushed the bubbles to the closest edge, left and right. The bubbles smoothed out completely. Time to complete: again 1-2 minutes.
The repaired areas have been in the sun and heat, high and lower humidity, and somewhat lower temperatures, and nothing has returned. The repair has held so far for
two weeks. I waited this long to post the results just to see if it would be fixed, at least for the short term.
The heat may have re-activated the adhesives, to allow the leather to re-attach.
For those with the bubbling, give it a try.
Fusion Pink turbo ppf squeegee
So I’m seeing this is a fairly common issue and yours is the best plan I’ve see with the least trauma. My car is a 13 but has only 6300 mi and been completely babied! Only sun would have been while driving and that’s not a lot. I don’t have I interior pictures right now as this just started. This seems like a quick and easy method to try and I do all my own detailing so I’m gonna give it a go! If you enlarge, you can see the bubble behind the glass.
Designer Imagines A Corvette That Looks More Like a Corvette Than the Corvette
Slideshow: A Jaguar designer's personal project imagines what a modern front-engined Corvette might look like if Chevrolet revisited the golden age of the Stingray.
