Ceramic coating
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...rchid=77185474
I have been staying with Carpro products... CQUARTZ UK 3.0 for ceramic.. always remember, ceramic coating is the last 10% of the process to coating... I am doing the wifes car right now and just spent 2 days on the first stage of paint correction, now starting stage 2... after that is done and sprayed down with an IPA cleaner that it will get coated.. This is on a 6 month old Mercedes Benz loaner car and the paint "looked" ok until I started the frist stage, that is when you really see all the scratches..
Every one of the new products says "we are the best now" there may be some newer and better, the professional ones us "weekend garage warriors" can not get as you have to be a pro...
Hope this helps
My question to you, are you looking for a reliable shop to perform this service, or are you planning on doing it yourself?
If you're doing it yourself, I'd recommend CQuartz Lite: https://amzn.to/2LUoIRC
In another month or so the Florida Inferno will be reduced and it time to detail the car without being burned to a crisp. I noticed that I was almost out of Zaino so I tried to research all this Ceramic stuff. I got a headache. Too much work for me. If I had a local place that would do it without charging thousands of $ I might let them but no. So I just order the old time Zaino to give it the usual treatment.
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A white Lake County pad and a finishing polish will take a coating right off with a DA. Its quick and easy.
As for maintenance, you need not be required to do any, but I occasionally wash with Gyeon Bathe instead of my regular Meguiars car wash, and then you can occasionally add a maintenance product to provide a sacrificial layer above your ceramic coating. For that, any SiO2 spray will work, but I use a Kamikaze Top Coat and a plush MF rag in the drying step after I wash.
Last edited by vader86; Oct 7, 2019 at 10:43 AM.





Basically you need to clay bar, apply a chemical decon (tar/iron remover), wipe clean with an alcohol solution, then use a polisher to remove all swirls. This is because once the ceramic is on, they're sealed under there. I only had to use a white pad and finishing polish as I had under 500 miles.
If I were getting a pro to do it, I'd have them work out the OP in the factory paint, but otherwise I did not attempt that far.
Then just applied Kamikaze Miyabi and ISM Coat.
Feynlabs is my go to product as it makes the colors look deeper and richer. Plus if you have a metallic it really brings out the metalflake in the paint and creates an illusion of 3D. Ceramic Pro because they back their warranty, especially a lifetime warranty, and Kamikaze becasue of it's durability, ease of use and the shine. However I am replacing Kamkaze with Feynlab's Ceramic Lite as they have made the product easier to use than when I first started using it.
Everyone is correct Paint Prep is the #1 thing to be done. The coating will bring out paint defects, especially on darker cars.
Here is a post I did over in the Detailing Section of the Forum that while it looks complicated for paint correction. It includes some tricks, ie. multiple pads that make the difference between a decent job and one that is stunning.
On a car that is ceramic coated you should always wash it with a wash made for ceramic coatings. I know the 55 gallon drum of Meguiar's at Costco is cheap, but it leaves a layer on the coating and will take away the qualities of the ceramic. I recommend Feynlab's Wash, or Gyeon's Q2M Bathe. One of the big differences between a regular car wash and a ceramic car wash, is the ceramic car washes contain a very, very mild acid that will remove any contaminants that may have gotten stuck to the coating. They also contain a tiny bit of the coating to help keep it fresh. While not cheap by any stretch Polish Angel High Gloss is the ultimate in a ceramic detail spray. Although many sites say it has been discontinued, it is still available on the Polish Angel site. While I am a fan of Feynlabs products, their first version of the detail spray was very difficult to use. I think I have V2 and will be trying it on my test car this week.
To remove a ceramic coating you do not have to sand it off, as stated you can use a compound like Meguiars 105 to remove it.
So all of the above sounds complicated but it is no different than a Zaino'd car or a Meguairs coated car, just different products.
Hope that helps
Feynlabs is my go to product as it makes the colors look deeper and richer. Plus if you have a metallic it really brings out the metalflake in the paint and creates an illusion of 3D. Ceramic Pro because they back their warranty, especially a lifetime warranty, and Kamikaze becasue of it's durability, ease of use and the shine. However I am replacing Kamkaze with Feynlab's Ceramic Lite as they have made the product easier to use than when I first started using it.
Everyone is correct Paint Prep is the #1 thing to be done. The coating will bring out paint defects, especially on darker cars.
Here is a post I did over in the Detailing Section of the Forum that while it looks complicated for paint correction. It includes some tricks, ie. multiple pads that make the difference between a decent job and one that is stunning.
On a car that is ceramic coated you should always wash it with a wash made for ceramic coatings. I know the 55 gallon drum of Meguiar's at Costco is cheap, but it leaves a layer on the coating and will take away the qualities of the ceramic. I recommend Feynlab's Wash, or Gyeon's Q2M Bathe. One of the big differences between a regular car wash and a ceramic car wash, is the ceramic car washes contain a very, very mild acid that will remove any contaminants that may have gotten stuck to the coating. They also contain a tiny bit of the coating to help keep it fresh. While not cheap by any stretch Polish Angel High Gloss is the ultimate in a ceramic detail spray. Although many sites say it has been discontinued, it is still available on the Polish Angel site. While I am a fan of Feynlabs products, their first version of the detail spray was very difficult to use. I think I have V2 and will be trying it on my test car this week.
To remove a ceramic coating you do not have to sand it off, as stated you can use a compound like Meguiars 105 to remove it.
So all of the above sounds complicated but it is no different than a Zaino'd car or a Meguairs coated car, just different products.
Hope that helps

I owned an award winning detail shop, to set a base.
Obviously you wash and clay as the first steps
what is your budget for a polisher, as there are several options, from a pc you can by at home depot for $100 to a rupes or flex for $400+, and trust me the rupes or flex makes a world of difference.
The pc is ok, but does not have the torque to truly do a nice job of cleaning up deep scratches/swirls. The advantage is it is very safe, you will never burn your paint.
Even with the flex or rupes, it is very difficult to damage the paint, they just have a bit more horsepower to clean up scratches.
Pads - for what you want to do initially get the meguiars mf cutting pad,
buy 2 packages, use one for the hood and front fenders, one for the doors, one for the rear and fenders.
Then get jescars cutting compound, follow the directions on the bottle, but as the product begins to dissipate, ease the pressure on the machine. Doing so eliminates holograms and swirls created by the pad.
Then get 6 rupes yellow polishing pads. I have tried dozens of pads and these are the best i have used.
The reason i use multiple pads is i don't care what product you use it gets gunked up in the pores of the pad, and can create minor micro swirls or worse visible holograms
having access to a compressor, i even blew out the pad when i added product to the pad i was using to keep the dried product from screwing up the finish.
Follow the same directions on the jescar bottle, but keeping pressure very light.
Then use feynlabs ceramic lite
it will make the paint come up like no other ceramic.
Can you do it with less steps and other products, you bet,,,, and you will get that in this post
i did 14 cars for monterey week
12 won first place or best in show, 2 others were asked not compete any more as they always won.
might sound complicated but not really
cliffs - use 4 pads to initially buff the car with jescar, or whatever compound
use 4- 6 pads on the final polish to ensure each pad is fresh
apply the ceramic of your choice
Feynlabs is my go to product as it makes the colors look deeper and richer. Plus if you have a metallic it really brings out the metalflake in the paint and creates an illusion of 3d. Ceramic pro because they back their warranty, especially a lifetime warranty, and kamikaze becasue of it's durability, ease of use and the shine. However i am replacing kamkaze with feynlab's ceramic lite as they have made the product easier to use than when i first started using it.
Everyone is correct paint prep is the #1 thing to be done. The coating will bring out paint defects, especially on darker cars.
Here is a post i did over in the detailing section of the forum that while it looks complicated for paint correction. It includes some tricks, ie. Multiple pads that make the difference between a decent job and one that is stunning.
On a car that is ceramic coated you should always wash it with a wash made for ceramic coatings. I know the 55 gallon drum of meguiar's at costco is cheap, but it leaves a layer on the coating and will take away the qualities of the ceramic. I recommend feynlab's wash, or gyeon's q2m bathe. One of the big differences between a regular car wash and a ceramic car wash, is the ceramic car washes contain a very, very mild acid that will remove any contaminants that may have gotten stuck to the coating. They also contain a tiny bit of the coating to help keep it fresh. While not cheap by any stretch polish angel high gloss is the ultimate in a ceramic detail spray. Although many sites say it has been discontinued, it is still available on the polish angel site. While i am a fan of feynlabs products, their first version of the detail spray was very difficult to use. I think i have v2 and will be trying it on my test car this week.
To remove a ceramic coating you do not have to sand it off, as stated you can use a compound like meguiars 105 to remove it.
So all of the above sounds complicated but it is no different than a zaino'd car or a meguairs coated car, just different products.
Hope that helps
Last edited by KGrant; Oct 8, 2019 at 01:25 PM.














