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1. To obtain an accurate engine oil level reading, warm up the engine to at least 175°F (80°C). Cold oil will not give a correct oil level reading.
2. Once the engine is warm, turn off the engine. Checking the oil while the engine is running will result in an incorrect oil level reading.
3. Wait at least five minutes (but not more than 10 minutes) to allow oil to drain and settle in the engine.
4. Remove the dipstick from the external engine oil tank and clean it with a lint-free paper towel or a cloth. Re-insert the dipstick into the external oil tank,
pushing it all the way in until it stops.
5. Remove the dipstick from the oil tank and read the level on the cross-hatched area. Oil levels that fall in the cross-hatched area are normal.
Changing Oil:
Can use one jack pad, jack and one jack stand and still get the last drop!
1) Jack up just the driver’s side, install jack stand.
2) Remove the drain plugs (2 plugs/GM part# 11562588) over a large 15 quart, low profile drain pan ($10 @ Advanced Auto).
3) Raise car slightly; remove jack stand.
4) Lower car with both drain plugs open and pan in place. Fully drains all oil from the side plug and front drain plug in dry sump.
5) Raise car, reinstall jack stand and put plugs back.
6) Remove and install new oil filter (AC PF64), remove jack stand and lower car, fill with 9.0 quarts Mobil1 ESP 0w-40 Dexos2 oil and reset OCM. You can check oil and add part of 10th quart to bring to full, however 9 quarts will fill to approx. center of hash marks which is to spect.
Resetting the OCM (Oil Change Monitor)
Scroll down to oil life remaining on the DIC (Driver Information Center, left control on the steering wheel) and press and hold the Set/Reset button.
Not all have the skills, tools/equipment, ability, or the inclination to do this at home.
It's not any different than any other car, except for a few salient points.
Make sure you have jacking inserts to give to them.
If it's dry sump, make sure they know that there are two drain plugs, and not to over fill. I tell them to use only nine quarts (and only pay for that). Then I drive it so it all warms up, and then check it at the 5-10 minute mark after shutting off. So far, using this method, has always resulted in exactly half way in the hashed area.
My experience with Freedom Chevrolet has been good so far. Their technicians I have met are friendly and helpful. I believe they sell the most Corvettes in the area. I like that they sponsor a local Corvette car club.
From: O'Fallon Illinois - Currently own a 2016 Z06 1LZ A8 Coupe
Nice write up. I know GM has said that the C7's can now use 0W40. I'm going against the grain and sticking with 5W30 which is what my 2016 Stingray Z51 owners manual calls for. It's half the price and I don't track the car.
Just my .02.
MT
Last edited by MTsVette; Nov 11, 2019 at 12:23 PM.
Nice write up. I know GM has said that the C7's can now use 0W40. I'm going against the grain and sticking with 5W30 which is what my 2016 Stingray Z51 owners manual calls for. It's half the price and I don't track the car.
Just my .02.
MT
I agree 100 percent! My 2017 Stingray will never see a track and it has always been filled with Mobil-1 5w30 at every oil change. My girlfriend has a 2019 Stingray (both are non-Z51 cars with the wet sump) and apparently is supposed to take 0w40. Not sure what GM was thinking. I don't know why 5w30 is good enough for my car, but not for hers. GM put a different sticker on the oil caps too -- 5w30 on mine and 0w40 on hers (same engine).
When jacking up the car ONLY on the driver's side (as mentioned above), how does that get all the oil to drain properly because the drain plug is on the LEFT side of the oil pan facing LEFT? Wouldn't it be better to jack up the right hand side of the car so it will drain better? Just curious!
Obviously, some if not many or most dealers usually get it right. However, all it takes is one screw-up when the owner's half-wit cousin twice-removed is working and is the only one free when you pull in, well...