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I’m getting ready to do some work on my C 7 and will be using low profile floor jack and hockey pucks. I’ve seen photos on this forum of damaged rocker panels and doors from the car slipping off the jack. For those of you fine folks who perform this task on a regular basis, do you believe these issues with cars slipping off the jack are improper set up etc? It seems like a pretty straightforward procedure so am soliciting your input on avoiding becoming one of the poor souls who damage their car? Thanks in advance.
Dave
Last edited by Dallas007; Dec 16, 2019 at 12:05 PM.
Reason: Should be in C7 forum?
I’m getting ready to do some work on my C 7 and will be using low profile floor jack and hockey pucks. I’ve seen photos on this forum of damaged rocker panels and doors from the car slipping off the jack. For those of you fine folks who perform this task on a regular basis, do you believe these issues with cars slipping off the jack are improper set up etc? It seems like a pretty straightforward procedure so am soliciting your input on avoiding becoming one of the poor souls who damage their car? Thanks in advance.
Dave
It's all how it's used! All hydraulic jacks MUST move in as they lift. The amount depends on the length of the lift arm (see pic) and the amount of lift. Just check the jack saddle to jack puck position after each pump.
Note, I bought a long reach jack with a 21 inch long lift arm that only had to move in 1.2 inches compared to the 2.6 inches for the same height lift on my small 10 inch lift arm jack. BUT it weighs 95 lbs and won't rolling in at all. Decided to increase the jack saddle rim height by welding on a ~3/8 inch piece of steel. ! That captures the aluminum jack pad and the jack is pulled in! Just be careful when pumping and you will be fine. Also be sure the jack is perpendicular to the car side AND you rotate the caster wheels (if it has those) so they are ready to roll into the car.
Old age, poor eye sight landed me in wrong forum. My apologies. Tried to correct but too late. A special apology to Snowwolfe for apparently appearing to not have done a search. Looking for some advice and thought this was purpose of forum?
No issues, as long as you have a flat jack saddle at least as big as the pucks you use. I've been swapping winter and summer tire sets back and forth on my C7 and jacking each corner w/ pucks twice a year for almost 4 years now.
No issues hers either. As said above, make sure the jack can move and you should be good to go. If you worried,check the jack point of contact with the car after a few pumps. If it is about to fall off, you should be able to tell.
Don't do this on a hill! If there is incline or decline on the surface you are jacking, you are asking for trouble.
double height pucks... cost to make 16 dollars total Long reach low profile jack
Making sure the jack is able to move forward as the lifting arm raises is important.
Catastrophe is caused by bad equipment and/or bad practice... pure and simple. I'm in my eighth decade and got my first job in a Chrysler dealership long before they could legally hire me, because my father was the service manager. The only times I've seen problems were when someone screwed up and/or if the equipment broke or failed. I'll not bore you with examples of the stupidity I've seen.
I've personally had zero issues with pucks and jacks, jack-stands, etc. That said for my C5 and C7 I use the aluminum pucks one screws to the car and leaves. Is doing such where one really wants the skimp? I can recall, many years ago a noted member of my profession who died when car fell on him. Don't be one of those! All the best, and play safely!!!
Nothing wrong with double pucks but 1) its overkill and not needed 2) some low-profile jacks cant fit under the Vette with TWO pucks together...so just measure based on YOUR specific jack.
Nothing wrong with double pucks but 1) its overkill and not needed 2) some low-profile jacks cant fit under the Vette with TWO pucks together...so just measure based on YOUR specific jack.
If you read my posts.. I said they are necessary with side skirts that I have which are lower by an inch than the rockers I said anyone using a single puck and a short low profile jack will have their lifting arm hit the side skirts.. I have a regular low profile jack and about a dozen single height jacking pucks.. they have worked for 20 years on my C5 and C7.. it wasn't until I added the side skirts did I find the jack and the single height pucks to be in adequate.. to say its over kill is suspect to what I call the downer syndrome not knowing what they are talking about... My C7 is lowered and double height pucks drop below the side skirts and my long reach low profile jack can now reach the pucks that are inhibited by their width.
These side skirts lower the ground clearance and stick out from the puck location.. reaching them without hitting the shirts requires a long reach low profile jack and double height pucks.
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I have used a set of BMW jacking pucks on my C5s and now my C7 and have had no issues with the jack coming in contact with the rocker panels or the side skirts I installed on the C7. If the car is slipping off the jack, then yes I believe there is a setup problem or a faulty jack. In addition, I always use jack stands as a safety measure - never just the floor jack.
If you read my posts.. I said they are necessary with side skirts that I have which are lower by an inch than the rockers I said anyone using a single puck and a short low profile jack will have their lifting arm hit the side skirts.. I have a regular low profile jack and about a dozen single height jacking pucks.. they have worked for 20 years on my C5 and C7.. it wasn't until I added the side skirts did I find the jack and the single height pucks to be in adequate.. to say its over kill is suspect to what I call the downer syndrome not knowing what they are talking about... My C7 is lowered and double height pucks drop below the side skirts and my long reach low profile jack can now reach the pucks that are inhibited by their width.
These side skirts lower the ground clearance and stick out from the puck location.. reaching them without hitting the shirts requires a long reach low profile jack and double height pucks.
I dont see anywhere here in this post where you stated all that??? You posted some pictures with some minor commentary... I have a GS, with side skirts and I use a standard low profile jack, and a single puck with zero issues... Unless you own a jack that is 6 inches long (which does not exist), Im not sure what problem you're solving...the side skirt adds a few inches to how far you have to go in to get to the puck area...
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DefaultQuote:
Originally Posted by furious465View Post
Wow thanks for sharing, very helpful and smartly done. I was going to buy a set but why now, thanks a million.
Its always been my pleasure to share my experience. Whether you make single height or double height, be aware that you need enough ground clearance to get a jack under them. If you plan on side skirts, I suggest you make a set of double height. If you make single height, you can always add a second puck to each. I have a low profile aluminum racing jack that I have been using for 20 years. ( Harbor frieght ) with the addition of the side skirts on my C7 I needed a longer reach low profile jack.
along with this one
Originally Posted by Evil-TwinView Post
Sure.. if you need lifting pucks, this is a very easy self esteem building project... Ive made several sets of the standard height lifting pucks for myself and several friends.. I have a set that is 20 years old ( single height ) . I ordered 8 hockey pucks from amazon and a third party vendor @ 1.49 each and free shipping with no minimum. ( received them today. Four 3/8 eye bolt screws 1 inch long , Eight # 10 X 1 1/2 in. pan head Philips screws. Home Depot I had some aluminum tape to use as illumination to make sure I could see the pucks under the car where it is in the shadow and hard to see for me. Make sure you get official NHL Ice hockey pucks... 6 0z. 1 inch by 3 inches. There are several types of hockey pucks. Street, Roller, Practice etc.. you want the best quality .ice hockey pucks.
drilled a hole in the center of four pucks that was the size of the minor pitch diameter of the eye screw. smaller than the dimeter of the outside thread diameter. Screwed the eye bolts in. Lined up the second puck beneath the first then taped the two together, so they would not move. I used electrical tape around the circumference then place them in a vice. I drilled two pilot holes @ 180 * degrees to affix the bottom puck to the top from the bottom I then drilled a head clearance hole using the pilot hole as a guide. 3/8 in deep . hand started the screws and drove them with a torque driver..
If this is not clear.. tell me if you have questions, ask them/// Ive seen double Hight pucks as cheap as 50 dollars and as much as 100 dollars.. these 16 dollar pucks Ive made will last more than 20 years.
It's a fun project
Bill