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I read in another post something about having to link the drive modes under settings to make the drive mode react properly, does that sound like a possibility? I really can’t tell the difference in any of the drive modes
You are changing drive modes via the **** in the center console correct? If you are just changing the dash configuration then nothing happens as its just a display. With the **** you should feel a pretty good difference between the modes but yes Link to Drive must be turned on or various parameters like steering and exhaust will not change with the ****.
Weather mode dials back the throttle response and ups the traction control. This will not stop the car from getting sliding (hydroplaning) but should keep it aimed in the right direction provided you don't purposely overdrive it by stabbing the throttle.
A couple of days ago I turned onto my street on wet leaves and goosed the throttle a bit to see it it would break loose. It did! But in the time I wondered if I'd end up sideways it regained traction. This was in Sport Mode. I didn't have an opportunity to compare Weather mode. ;-)
You are changing drive modes via the **** in the center console correct? If you are just changing the dash configuration then nothing happens as its just a display. With the **** you should feel a pretty good difference between the modes but yes Link to Drive must be turned on or various parameters like steering and exhaust will not change with the ****.
Weather mode dials back the throttle response and ups the traction control. This will not stop the car from getting sliding (hydroplaning) but should keep it aimed in the right direction provided you don't purposely overdrive it by stabbing the throttle.
yes, I am controlling drive modes via the dial, I can’t really tell the difference between any of the modes
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Originally Posted by Toddster993
yes, I am controlling drive modes via the dial, I can’t really tell the difference between any of the modes
Are you pressing the button in the center of the dial twice then using the dial? You have to "enter" PTM to use the 5 PTM modes (over and above the regular drive modes)
Without entering PTM, there isn't a huge noticeable difference between the modes.
Ironically "wet" in PTM will allow for more slip than while not in PTM fwiw.
Giving the throttle a poke regardless of it being full throttle or not is still some throttle in a short period of time. no traction control on the planet can read your mind. It has to know what's happening to stop it and that means to allow wheel spin.
The base "modes" weather, eco, sport and track all have effectively the same TC/AH programming (the only time they're reduced is when they're low enough to show the amber lights on the dash (if you don't see the amber TC/AH lights then you're not in PTM mode) if you're not in PTM mode then TC will operate similarly in all modes. However some things like throttle response is very modified between the modes. (you can however completely disable both TC & AH without the use of PTM)
in PTM mode you would see a "popup" that you use to select the PTM mode that you scroll with the wheel once you select the mode you simply stop moving the dial.
you would also see the AH warning on the speedometer side of the cluster. they're on but "off enough" that the government feels that the consumer be notified that they probably don't know what they're doing.
Last edited by lobsterroboto; Dec 23, 2019 at 08:32 PM.
Are you pressing the button in the center of the dial twice then using the dial? You have to "enter" PTM to use the 5 PTM modes (over and above the regular drive modes)
Without entering PTM, there isn't a huge noticeable difference between the modes.
Ironically "wet" in PTM will allow for more slip than while not in PTM fwiw.
Giving the throttle a poke regardless of it being full throttle or not is still some throttle in a short period of time. no traction control on the planet can read your mind. It has to know what's happening to stop it and that means to allow wheel spin.
The base "modes" weather, eco, sport and track all have effectively the same TC/AH programming (the only time they're reduced is when they're low enough to show the amber lights on the dash (if you don't see the amber TC/AH lights then you're not in PTM mode) if you're not in PTM mode then TC will operate similarly in all modes. However some things like throttle response is very modified between the modes. (you can however completely disable both TC & AH without the use of PTM)
I
in PTM mode you would see a "popup" that you use to select the PTM mode that you scroll with the wheel once you select the mode you simply stop moving the dial.
you would also see the AH warning on the speedometer side of the cluster. they're on but "off enough" that the government feels that the consumer be notified that they probably don't know what they're doing.
First of all, I never even realized that was a button, all I have ever done was turn the dial. So what is the sequence I should follow to ensure I am maximizing the impact of the settings? Not really clear on what the button does versus just turning the dial.
It is covered in your manual quite well. It will probably easier for you to understand if you take a bit of time and read through it. It is not complicated, but takes a bit to get it.
The car doesn't know the rear wheels have lost traction and are spinning until the wheel speed sensors
front and rear are compared. This takes a couple of seconds for the system to reduce power and the
drivetrain inertia to subside. And yes, the car can get sideways pretty quick, especially starting from a
stop. And even more so with the reduced traction on wet roads.
The stock LT1 has a lot of grunt right off idle and needs to be expected and respected!
It is covered in your manual quite well. It will probably easier for you to understand if you take a bit of time and read through it. It is not complicated, but takes a bit to get it.
I will have to run through the manual when I get home for the holidays