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I have a 2018 Grand Sport with 15,000 miles on it. Found a nail in one of the front tires. Took it in and they told us that all 4 needed to be replaced. The thread was coming out on the insides of them. They said this was due to not being aligned. Further searching I found that these tires need to be replaced around this mileage or less. Is this true? This is costing us $2500. Also, is it true that if you drive them when it's under 40 degrees it can damage the tires?
As FXVette said above, after getting new tires, get an alignment. Other thing many are unaware of is the tires are to be rotated every 7-7.5k miles per owner manual. The MPSS tires have tread pattern that is designed to rotate in either direction. Just have to be mounted with the stamp “outside” on sidewall facing out (Doh!). No need to breakdown & remount. Can only be moved side to side since different sizes on front/rear. If you drive the car HARD these tires don’t last too long anyway even with a good alignment. PS: As far as driving below 40*. Owner manual & Michelin say don't MOVE the car/tires below 20*F or you MAY crack the sidewalls due to rubber compound & stiff sidewalls. From about 60* & lower be cautious about too much gas too soon when accelerating especially out of curves. These tires supply MORE grip the hotter the temps but begin to harden (become stiffer) & provide much less traction as temps drop. Us with the Zs really have to be judicious with the throttle in cooler temps.
Last edited by madrob2020; Mar 5, 2020 at 11:36 AM.
Welcome to the forum.
As said above, when you get the new set of tires make sure you get an alignment. Tell them you want a "street alignment". I makes a world of difference in tire wear on these cars.
Last time I replaced my tires I got the Michelin AS3+ which are much better if you do any cold weather driving, plus they seem to last ( at least for me) 25/30K with a street alignment. The minus side, if you track the car the MPSS are better traction in the summer. - tom
The Michelin AS3+ are in the 12/1400 range. The 2500 you were quoted is BS even for the OEM MPSS tires. They price out around 1800 everywhere I've seen
Good advice above. Alignments from BG are all over the map. I took mine in for alignment at 500mi at an independant performance shop and mine was in street spec. They commented other C7s theyve worked on were track spec.
$2500 quote is way to high! Depending on where you live, check out the prices for Michelin AS3+ from Tire Rack and Discount Tires. Many Chev dealers will match their prices as they still make plenty on mounting, balancing and alignment. I put the All-Season tires on my '19 at Discount Tires as soon as I got it and have been very happy with them.
Last edited by Chuck Mahnke; Mar 5, 2020 at 01:05 PM.
Reason: spelling
$2500 quote is way to high! Depending on where you live, check out the prices for Michelin AS3+ from Tire Rack and Discount Tires. Many Chev dealers will match their prices as they still make plenty on mounting, balancing and alignment. I put the All-Season tires on my '19 at Discount Tires as soon as I got it and have been very happy with them.
i got my AS3+ for $1246 out the door at Discount. I sold my SSs for $750. Cheap for the update....
Yeah, I'm not buying it. Why would they look inside all four tires if only one was the issue? And belts coming loose inside is a manufacture defect if it's happening at all. You would definitely feel a broken belt when driving. The price is also too high. Get a second opinion.
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16
Originally Posted by Elk
I think they mean the inside edge of the tire tread is cording, not that they looked inside the tie and found belts coming loose.
If a belt comes loose, it will show as up as an uneven off side bulge.
At least it did on the one time I had a belt get loose.
I didn’t know what was causing the car to pull and the faster I drove the harder it pulled.
The belt was creeping at speed.
Mechanic found it right away.
what are the recommended specs for a Street Alignment?
If the only thing you care about is tire life, then you want 0 camber and 0 toe. GS/Z06 may not be able to set that low camber, settle for the lowest you can get equal on the rears and set the fronts the same.
You can get a noticeable improvement in handling by going to maybe -.5 camber and just a tiny bit of toe-in. Avoid any toe out.
All the other settings are easier and you can go with what's in the specs.
Note that the rear caster is adjustable on the C7, that requires special tools to measure and set, can't be "seen" by an alignment machine. Lots of dealerships don't even know this exists, fewer still have the tools and experience to do it right. For normal street driving it's usually not critical; track use is more precise.