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They do the same job, but headers are more efficient. Header tubes are equal in length, ensuring the exhaust from each cylinder reach the collector separately, avoiding back pressure. They are also smooth inside. Exhaust manifolds are heavy, brick-like, and the tubes are all the same length, resulting in back pressure. Being cast iron they are rough inside, slowing exhaust flow.
Normal. And that’s an exhaust manifold. Not a header
Dang son, I didn't even know if it was a crack or not, the fact that I came close to the right name, ( you say tomato, I say tamato) in my book was impressive!! LOL!
They do the same job, but headers are more efficient. Header tubes are equal in length, ensuring the exhaust from each cylinder reach the collector separately, avoiding back pressure. They are also smooth inside. Exhaust manifolds are heavy, brick-like, and the tubes are all the same length, resulting in back pressure. Being cast iron they are rough inside, slowing exhaust flow.
Merely being equal length doesn't necessarily make them efficient, they need to be the correct length for the application. And just because they're cast doesn't mean they aren't efficient. There are some designs of cast manifolds that work very well. As for the internal smoothness, that can be taken care of with extrude honing them. There are some good things about cast manifolds however. They are quieter, generally more durable, and keep the heat in the exhaust which helps the cats light off. If you're running a turbo they're more than adequate for that unless you're looking for every last bit of performance. They're typically less maintenance if designed correctly, and are very compact compared to typical header systems. One major drawback of cast manifolds is that they are harder to repair if they do crack. Stainless or mild steel headers are relatively easy to repair.
Sorry, I just offered some basic generalities. Of course, there is a good deal more to the topic - as there always is when presented with a brief summary of a topic.
A stress relief cut is designed to do just that... relieve stress...
If the cut were not made the stress within the continuous flange would increase and potentially warp the flange or the stretch the securing bolt.
A stress relief cut is designed to do just that... relieve stress...
If the cut were not made the stress within the continuous flange would increase and potentially warp the flange or the stretch the securing bolt.
ok, so it is a relief cut.
what are the chances that these cuts could cause an exhaust leak? At times i hear a slight tick, comes from the drivers side. not real noticeable just real faint. I know there is a gasket in between manifold and the head. But could it be from there? just curious is all..
what are the chances that these cuts could cause an exhaust leak? At times i hear a slight tick, comes from the drivers side. not real noticeable just real faint. I know there is a gasket in between manifold and the head. But could it be from there? just curious is all..
The ticking is indeed the injectors They sound a little bit like a diesel engine.
The fuel pressure is impressively high. The LT4's high pressure fuel pump can hold 2,900 psi at WOT, operating in dense air and at maximum RPM. At idle it is around 350 psi. The maximum is roughly 800 lower with the LT1. Very neat.
The ticking can also be from expansion. That's what you normally hear sometimes after shutdown as various materials start shrinking as they cool.
Not much chance of the stress relief notches causing an exhaust leak. They're the farthest point away from the edge of the exhaust port. Totally harmless, and beneficial as others above have mentioned