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I have a 2016 C7Z with the Z07 pack. I mainly street my car and it sees very little of the track. I was wanting to hear from someone experienced as I am not about what to run for my alignment to possibly save on tire wear or get a more even wear.
There are so many threads on this you cant count them all.
Fortunately you can summarize them, by saying the closer to zero camber you get, the longer the tires will last.
Had a 4 wheel alignment done at my dealer's last week after getting new tires. Thanks to this forum and my S.A., I learned there's the alignment specs done when the car is built, and there's also what my S.A. called a street alignment, which should improve tire life. Since I only 'cruise' in the car, I went for the street specs. BTW, I got 29k miles on the fronts. The rears were probably good for a few thousand more, however I opted for four new tires.
Hope this helps.
Had a 4 wheel alignment done at my dealer's last week after getting new tires. Thanks to this forum and my S.A., I learned there's the alignment specs done when the car is built, and there's also what my S.A. called a street alignment, which should improve tire life. Since I only 'cruise' in the car, I went for the street specs. BTW, I got 29k miles on the fronts. The rears were probably good for a few thousand more, however I opted for four new tires.
Hope this helps.
There are so many threads on this you cant count them all.
Fortunately you can summarize them, by saying the closer to zero camber you get, the longer the tires will last.
I tried looking but it seemed like the ones I came across were only discussing setups for track. My apologies
front toe 0.00, caster 7 and camber -1.2
rear toe 0.00 caster 0.8 camber -1.2
This should be good for street use while still feeling good on street for handling. The rear caster is tough to check as it requires a special gm tool so a shop with the right equipment is paramount.
I tried looking but it seemed like the ones I came across were only discussing setups for track. My apologies
You dont have to apologize, the search feature sucks. Plus the moderators have neglected to make a sticky thread for alignment specs, even though the topic comes up almost daily.
Anyway, you scalped the inside edge of your front tires because of the negative camber setting. Change it to somthing close to zero and the tires will last much longer.
Good luck finding someone willing to follow your numbers exactly. What is the best for your car has been discussed here.
3 dealer's in my area bailed when I mentioned it was lowered.Alignments now are a money maker.Stay in that Green wide range and call it good enough.
I tried a independent tire store.They explained very well what and why.
Really doesn't match the preferred numbers here.
So I'll be measuring tires.
Members are willing to help.Good luck.
This was my recent misery https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-settings.html
There are so many threads on this you cant count them all.
Fortunately you can summarize them, by saying the closer to zero camber you get, the longer the tires will last.
This is actually incorrect, toe will cause improper tire wear. It's the toe in combination with negative camber that causes the tire wear. You should be fine with -1 to -2 of negative camber with little to no toe.
This is actually incorrect, toe will cause improper tire wear. It's the toe in combination with negative camber that causes the tire wear. You should be fine with -1 to -2 of negative camber with little to no toe.
You know how to tell when someone has little or no actual experience as an alignment tech in a professional setting ?
You know how to tell when someone has little or no actual experience as an alignment tech in a professional setting ?
They say things like whats quoted above.
No need to be harsh. I have as many others run -1.2 camber on my vettes and gotten full tire life. -2 camber is what I would run for track, but a -1 and 0 toe is just what our cars need for street use. Both DSC and Pdaft have been recommending 0 toe and a -1 camber for YEARS for C5, C6 and C7. where it has been incorrect toe on our cars more responsible for inner tire wear.
I think you are way off base here. I have run -1.2 camber on my vettes and gotten full tire life. -2 camber is what I would run for track, but a -1 and 0 toe is just what our cars need for street use.
Im not off base at all here.
You can argue that riding on the inside edges of the tires, wont wear the inside edges of tires, but you will still be wrong.
By the way, a few hundredths of a degree toe IN is ideal. Not zero.
You would know that if you spent a career as a professional tech.
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; Jun 22, 2020 at 06:15 PM.
No need to be harsh. I have as many others run -1.2 camber on my vettes and gotten full tire life. -2 camber is what I would run for track, but a -1 and 0 toe is just what our cars need for street use. Both DSC and Pdaft have been recommending 0 toe and a -1 camber for YEARS for C5, C6 and C7. where it has been incorrect toe on our cars more responsible for inner tire wear.
WRONG.
That is just plain wrong.
Incorrect toe mean "feather edging" not inside edge wear.
Our professional tech has spoken. Please ignore years of other owner's experience and the community who supports our cars on how our corvette's alignment should be.
Rather than be a jackass about it, post up some corrections and links etc. I simply suggested 0 toe as he was looking for street use and a lot of "street" only users swear by it. No one came in here to be insulting, but you really have some attitude about you.
Im not off base at all here.
You can argue that riding on the inside edges of the tires, wont wear the inside edges of tires, but you will still be wrong.
By the way, a few hundredths of a degree toe IN is ideal. Not zero.
You would know that if you spent a career as a professional tech.
Sorry, but you are off base, tech or not.
Toe causes premature wear, camber will just cause the wear to be located more towards the inner side but should be minimal if not using extreme angles and/or corner frequently.
Our professional tech has spoken. Please ignore years of other owner's experience and the community who supports our cars on how our corvette's alignment should be.
Rather than be a jackass about it, post up some corrections and links etc. I simply suggested 0 toe as he was looking for street use and a lot of "street" only users swear by it. No one came in here to be insulting, but you really have some attitude about you.
You could learn a lesson or two about what is being helpful rather than calling out people if they have "professional tech experience"
LOL !!!
Im absolutely familiar with that document. Especially how it says in BOLD print "For Occasional Track Use".
Additionally, had you been around here a few years ago when i first had this fight, you would know I spoke directly with the owner of DSC about those settings, and was told they don`t have specs for street use only with an eye towards preserving tire life.
And by the way, i`m not calling out anyone. I`m setting the record straight, instead of guessing based on the guesses of other guessers.
Last edited by PatternDayTrader; Jun 22, 2020 at 06:37 PM.
Toe causes premature wear, camber will just cause the wear to be located more towards the inner side but should be minimal if not using extreme angles and/or corner frequently.
I quoted that document as it has "occasional track use" where it recommends the negative toe. This is why a 0 toe was suggested for a 99% street use car as other forum members have gone to a neutral toe while retaining a -1 camber to keep a little cornering fun in the car.
If you have a suggestion for a STREET alignment that will preserve some wear on the tires SAY IT. Be clear about some suggestions rather than hiding behind a computer and stating we are all wrong. Then some people will try it and see if it works to their satisfaction of their goals. This is how a forum helps, not ridiculing like a 9 year old. I'm calling you out on this to share that knowledge rather than acting all smug about it.What is the point of saying you fought with DSC and allowing that to stand as the defacto standard? Help the new guys out.
As close to 0 camber as I can get but allowing a .3 difference between left and right.. 0 L -.3 R I think that has to do with the crown of the roads. Toe -.01 and caster stock as the book says.
Excessive Camber kills the inside tread. Excessive Toe causes the inside to scallop.
High camber is for race tracks and doing corners. Highway and street do not need high camber.