Passenger rear on my C7Z had a slow leak so I took it in to the tire shop. They explain to me that my wheel is cracked. Nice enough guy, shows me it before putting it back on. But even he said "Oh we'd have to go talk to Chevy about a replacement" and I point out that no, those are CRAY wheels. I bought those wheels because the stock ones cracked on me too.

I'm almost definitely rough on cars, I get that. But I thought I was doing right by spending more and grabbing cray wheels instead of OEs (with a penchant for cracking) or reproduction OEs (from some cheap manufacturer). Did I just get a bad wheel and I should replace it and hope for the best? Or should I have not trusted Cray? Which wheels will actually put up with the abuse this car is capable of? To the OE's credit they at least lasted a year with me behind the wheel before cracking.

 

I would imagine just about any wheel can crack/bend with enough abuse, but I haven’t seen reports of problems with Cray wheels. Perhaps it is just an isolated case so I’d say give it another try with a replacement wheel from Cray.

 

I have Cray Mako wheels (with A/S Michelins for fall and winter) and recognize they are not true forged wheels. Only about 1k miles with no issue.

The Crays are "rotary forged" or some such that is in between cast and "true forged" from what I've been able to ascertain. Thus the price difference between Crays and "true forged", which is about double. I hoped they were better than OEM but did not expect the strength of Forgeline or similar.

There's a couple of threads dissecting this in great detail.

I did bend two OEM wheels with the OEM tires for summer on my GS. Had them straightened and they balanced out perfectly afterwards. I knew they were bent immediately after hitting a really bad place in the road. No cracks.

 

I agree with both statements above ^.

I believe you're best defense will be a 'mono forged' wheel, which carry a hefty price. I have a set of Cray wheels too, but I usually ride in Tour mode and try to avoid known crappy roads at all costs.

 

UNDERINFLATION is your problem inflate to 34psi cold and you will have NO ISSUES with wheels. FORGET what the manual says. Let the suspension take the hits dont turn your wheels into springs.

 

 

Forged.

 

Most repro wheels are heavier than factory, which means there is more aluminum somewhere in them. If it's in the right places (mostly, the inboard rim edge), then the cheapo wheels might actually be more durable than factory.
Nobody like heavier wheels, but these might be a reasonable tradeoff. And cheaper to replace, if you do bend/crack one.

 

I own two Grand Sports a 17 and 19 NOT ONE cracked wheel my secret? 34psi

 

Yup, Never had a cracked wheel on any of our Vettes. But our 2014 Lexus RX 350 had a cracked wheel. (sh)it happens!

 

Cray are rotary forged as are stock rims. At the width of the tires and the weight of the car, you'll break them eventually. Overinflate your tires all you want, the sidewalls are reinforced on the inner barrel for run flats and will do zilch to absorb more impact.

The cracks and bends are repetitive stress induced bends and cracks. Your wide body stock rims probably have some run out which is out of spec already.

Forged rims are significantly stronger than rotary forged and are lighter in most cases. The forged nature makes them more resistant to cracking and significant impacts outside its strength will bend rather than crack.

 

Sorry to hear your plight. Are Cray genuinely forged, or...? Where are they made? Just curious. I, too, agree that anything can be destroyed, but I'm also leery of marketing language.

 

Cray does make some forged rims, but in limited styles so unless you bought a specific forged set, they will be alloys which at best are rotary forged.

 

The term “rotary forged” is thrown around often on these threads. The correct term for this manufacturing process is “spun”. Forged is when you take a slug of metal and hammer it into shape using many, many tons of force using a steel mold. It forces the metal grain structure to assume the most favorable alignment possible.

Spinning a wheel is done in open air using a roller. Grain structure is not optimized in spinning, and addition internal stresses are introduced.

The OEM wheels are “rotary forged”, to quote the inaccurate terminology...and we see how strong they are. Why pay extra for the same basic wheel process? Keep OEM or upgrade to true forgings.

 

I've made the biggest stink about GM garbage and my new 2019 gs. I've made videos on YouTube bashing GM and the OEM wheels.

Take it from me. Spend the money on Forgelines and be done. You don't have to buy from Gery but that's who I bought mine through.

 

I believe you may be on to something there. I keep mine at 32 psi, and religiously keep an eye on them. I have hit some "oh oh!" pot holes and my wheels are still fortunately fine after 18,000 miles. I know this is just anecdotal, but but I have ran over some real craters. I fully expected the wheels to be cracked or bent. Not so.

 

Do you like the GM 10 spoke pearl blade wheels?

Different supplier and no problems from what I have seen.

I have them and like them.

 

A little lesson on wheels:
https://www.turnology.com/tech-stori...forged-wheels/
GM would be the bottom of the manufacturing process.Thanks GM..
Hopefully BBB Will do the right thing and help with the wheel
FORGELINES got my vote.
American Car,American Wheel

 

GM.. Loose the rubber band hard-*** tires..... All this design needs is Tire Cushion!.. and larger sway bars! And... well a quality wheel.. There.. I've solved it.

 

The C6 wide body cars used similar sized tires with little problems