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Has anyone paid a dealership to replace the RCDLR? If so what was the damage? My key fobs stopped working. Both have new batteries. Car battery checks at 12.65v a couple hours after a drive, so that shouldn’t be the problem. All things are pointing to a bad RCDLR.
Bringing this back up. Surely there are other c7 owners on here who have had their key fobs suddenly become non-responsive. I'm thinking this is not going to be a fun trip to the dealership.
The remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR) is a multifunction module that operates both the keyless entry system as well as the tire pressure monitoring (TPM) system. Is the
The remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR) is a multifunction module that operates both the keyless entry system as well as the tire pressure monitoring (TPM) system. Is the
TPM working???
I had to edit this response after double-checking the car:
Interesting. I've don't a lot of research but did not come across that. The TPM system is also not working and the doors will NOT open after being locked. The key fobs won't lock and unlock the car, open the truck, or remote start the car. I'm also getting the "key fob not detected" message with both fobs despite new batteries in them. The car will only start with the fob in the steering column slot. Maybe something other than the RCDLR?
If the FOBs work in the slot, the RCDLR seems to be working.
Are you sure your NEW FOB batteries are good. What brand are they? Are the in with the correct side up?
ELmer
Yes, brand new Energizers from the largest grocery store in town that does a ton of volume. They are inserted correctly. All things now seem to point to the RCDLR. A prior article that I read indicates the car will start with the key in the slot even when the RCDLR is bad.
Update - I went through the extended re-learn process for both fobs. Both of them now work. The DIC still shows -- at all four tire locations, but I did a battery disconnect reset yesterday, so I'm wondering if those might come back online when I drive the car again. One step at a time. I still am suspect of the RCDLR due to the fact that both fobs stopped worked suddenly.
Update - I went through the extended re-learn process for both fobs. Both of them now work. The DIC still shows -- at all four tire locations, but I did a battery disconnect reset yesterday, so I'm wondering if those might come back online when I drive the car again. One step at a time. I still am suspect of the RCDLR due to the fact that both fobs stopped worked suddenly.
The TSPS will come back on as you drive. It's supposed to be an automatic thing.
Check you "new" car battery. It's not uncommon to get a bad one... really. Just because it shows 12 volts after a drive means little. Check it cold the next morning before doing anything else. Also, not knowing the age of your car, clean the battery cable connectors very well. I don't know how many times I've seen shops hook corroded cables to new batteries.
Check you "new" car battery. It's not uncommon to get a bad one... really. Just because it shows 12 volts after a drive means little. Check it cold the next morning before doing anything else. Also, not knowing the age of your car, clean the battery cable connectors very well. I don't know how many times I've seen shops hook corroded cables to new batteries.
All the best.
I think you may be on to something. It checks out good a couple hours after driving (12.6) but after sitting a few days it’s at 12.3. It starts the car fine, but I know these cars are finicky about the voltage.
Update - I went through the extended re-learn process for both fobs. Both of them now work. The DIC still shows -- at all four tire locations, but I did a battery disconnect reset yesterday, so I'm wondering if those might come back online when I drive the car again. One step at a time. I still am suspect of the RCDLR due to the fact that both fobs stopped worked suddenly.
Did you have any success solving with a re-learn? Have a 2014 Ive had since new. Exact same problem started last year. Both FOBS start/stop working TOGETHER intermittently (have put countless new fob batteries in both, BOTH start/stop working randomly at same time). Problem seems to occur after car is parked > a week. Once it solves itself(?) and car is driven daily, whole issue seems to go away until it sits again. Figure battery could be culrpit, replaced for new stock battery last month which solved the problem until I was away for a week (The battery was even on tender and shows full charge / >12.6V so that cant be the problem). To note on TPMS, EVERY TIME I am forced to drive with FOB in steering column slot, I get the TPMS failure that goes away once FOBS eventually start working again. Again no apparent reason or pattern here other than sitting time. Of course, the time I broke down and took to stealership for diagnosis, the keys started working for them in thier lot and I was robbed $220 for a $2 FOB battery.
Did you have any success solving with a re-learn? Have a 2014 Ive had since new. Exact same problem started last year. Both FOBS start/stop working TOGETHER intermittently (have put countless new fob batteries in both, BOTH start/stop working randomly at same time). Problem seems to occur after car is parked > a week. Once it solves itself(?) and car is driven daily, whole issue seems to go away until it sits again. Figure battery could be culrpit, replaced for new stock battery last month which solved the problem until I was away for a week (The battery was even on tender and shows full charge / >12.6V so that cant be the problem). To note on TPMS, EVERY TIME I am forced to drive with FOB in steering column slot, I get the TPMS failure that goes away once FOBS eventually start working again. Again no apparent reason or pattern here other than sitting time. Of course, the time I broke down and took to stealership for diagnosis, the keys started working for them in thier lot and I was robbed $220 for a $2 FOB battery.
I was convinced that there was a problem with the RCDLR by the time I posted this. I had replace the vehicle ignition battery and both fob batteries. I went as far as scheduling an appointment at the local dealership to have the car diagnosed which I fortunately had to cancel due to my schedule. In a last ditch effort, I bought another pair of batteries for my fobs and replaced them both. That solved the problem. So in the end, I was the victim of at least 2 bad 2032 Energizer batteries bought at a big box grocery store. After I finally found decent key fob batteries, I had no further issues.
Last edited by cstapp99; Jun 29, 2021 at 09:39 PM.
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RCDLR replacement cost?
