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They are ordering a new main fuse block to continue diagnosing. Apparently every large fuse blew from the rear to the front. I could hear loud pops when going around turn 18. This was the only turn I heard the pops. I thought I was hearing pickup slap the underside of my car as I had cup 2's on my car for the first time. I even came down pit road to ask if my tires were coming apart. Knowing now, I realize something under the hood was arcing due to the flexing of the chassis in that section. I sure hope that they can fix the problem to where it doesn't happen again ever. Anyone else hear about anything like this? I only ran the GoPro on the first session and you can barely hear the pops.
Wow. I'm surprised that the Cup2s grip hard enough to flex the chassis to the level required to start pulling the electrical system apart, if that is what actually happened. I thought the C7 chassis is supposed to be pretty stiff. I can't see it clearly, but is that some sort of warning light lit up in the upper right hand between the tach and speedo? It may just be the way the camera works, but it appears that in the heavier G turns, 12 in particular, there is some flickering in the instrument panel.
No warning light came on at all. Those lights are just indicators I has traction control and active handling in sport 1.
Okay. Additional remark above regarding possible flicking in the instrument panel in turn 12 complex. Is that just the interaction between the camera and the dash or something else? Doesn't seem to happen much in the straights and lighter G turns.
Unfortunately my GoPro cuts the video into about 11 minute sections and I have to edit them together. The flickering could be that or something I missed while driving. At one point a change oil soon message appeared in my DIC that I had to clear because i was at 10 percent life left. If G related, the problem only got worse as I was running 5 seconds faster per lap in later sessions. Stupid me thought it was just rubber pickup while my car electrics cooked and popped.
Unfortunately my GoPro cuts the video into about 11 minute sections and I have to edit them together. The flickering could be that or something I missed while driving. At one point a change oil soon message appeared in my DIC that I had to clear because i was at 10 percent life left. If G related, the problem only got worse as I was running 5 seconds faster per lap in later sessions. Stupid me thought it was just rubber pickup while my car electrics cooked and popped.
Don't beat yourself up. I would have never suspected the problem either and I don't know many or any that would have. My guess is that is a very rare deal.
Knowing now, I realize something under the hood was arcing due to the flexing of the chassis in that section.
The CF hood conducts electricity? Or did they hit a metal cooling line? I'm trying to visual what under the hood could reach the fuse box to short things out this seems like something super rare. Maybe a grounding strap or wire broke loose, entire fuse box came unbolted? Chassis flex seems unlikely unless you've got a massive crack hiding somewhere.
I can't wrap my head around it either. Why only in turn 18? It was at the 2nd apex every time I heard it and it happened to be right where I put my tire on the rumble strips. The G's there are pretty high. I wish my glove box was working as I'd have the data to look at. I have photos from that day lifting wheels so the car was being pushed. I guess it could have been some connection parting or touching at a critical spot. I am eager to hear what it was. I really need this car to be reliable if I am going to continue to drive to tracks. I hope no one else has this problem ever, It is maddening.
If the electronic latch on the glove box is not releasing the glove box door, try the following: Open the passanger side door look on the right side of the glove box area now exposed by opening the passenger side door for a small (about 1 inch square) access patch Pry open the access patch Push a long rod (an 1/4 inch socket tool extension work well) into the access hole and push against the locking mechanism.
Didn't change plugs recently did you? To get to the passenger side, the fuse box needs to be moved. While easy, I could also see where someone could put it back together incorrectly leading to a short (or shorts) when the car flexes a small amount. Also more than a few threads detailing how people have broken the tab where the positive cable goes when they attempt to move the fuse box for a plug swap. Long story short, if the plugs were changed recently, that may be why the fuse box is arcing.
Update on Bricked GS
this seems like something super rare. Maybe a grounding strap or wire broke loose, entire fuse box came unbolted? Chassis flex seems unlikely unless you've got a massive crack hiding somewhere.
