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This is what happens when you push your C7 Z51 a bit hard on the track. I usually swap rotors halfway through track season, but didn't this year. So therefore.....
And with DBA racing rotors nonetheless.
One of the first things that I did on the C7 Z51 was to switch to C7 Z06 iron system. It's very cheap to do so, looks OEM (because it is), and brings a lot more heat capacity. They worked great:
One of the first things that I did on the C7 Z51 was to switch to C7 Z06 iron system. It's very cheap to do so, looks OEM (because it is), and brings a lot more heat capacity. They worked great:
Not sure if C7 Z06 brakes would work with my aftermarket wheels. I've downsized to 18/19, in order to make my Toyo and Nitto DOT slicks fit.
Just one more season on this car anyway, as I'm on lists for a C8 Z06 hopefully fall 2021. I'm surprised at these expensive DBAs cracking like this. Especially as I'm so careful cooling down the brakes after each session.
I don't get the "hat's off" either. LOL!
Don't want to be a buzz killer here, but if I had to guess I would say that the brake pads were not up to the task and disintegrated allowing metal to metal contact, Just a guess but have you taken this apart to look at the pads? And what pads were you running?
I used the DBA T3 rotors and Raybestos ST43 pads and never saw anything like this.
Don't want to be a buzz killer here, but if I had to guess I would say that the brake pads were not up to the task and disintegrated allowing metal to metal contact...
Um, nah, nope, uh uh. Rotor cracking is due to repeated hard use. The heat checking on the surface is fairly typical of track days, and a full rotor crack is just the rotor announcing "I've had enough!".
Um, nah, nope, uh uh. Rotor cracking is due to repeated hard use. The heat checking on the surface is fairly typical of track days, and a full rotor crack is just the rotor announcing "I've had enough!".
+1. I'm not sure if a worn out pad would cause overheating/crack anyway; it'd more likely cause deep scratches, etc.
On some cars, the brake system is not thermally challenged to the capacity, and you can likely use the rotors until they are worn out (by checking on its thickness). On C7 corvettes, we often need to replace rotors before they are worn out due to these heat checks/cycles. The microcracks keep getting longer and/or deeper. We need to monitor and check if any of those mini cracks 'turn the corner' by the end of the outer edge towards inside, and when it does, we are on borrowed time.
Another tip I see many (including me) do: move the car (by pushing it) until the wheels half-turn, 5-10 minutes after you park the car at the paddock. This way you reduce the temp delta between the cooled down rotor and the part of it still inside the caliper that cannot cool down as fast. Most cracks happen at the paddock with a loud pop, and this reduces the odds.
Maybe, but from the picture it appears that the rotor has severe grooves. What would cause such severe grooves? Or am I seeing something that is not there?
Maybe, but from the picture it appears that the rotor has severe grooves. What would cause such severe grooves? Or am I seeing something that is not there?
Oh, that rotor is worn out, no doubt! I think I can see the remnants of two DBA grooves, and as the OP stated, he normally switches out rotors at mid-season but stretched their use out farther this time. I *think* what you're seeing as deep grooves are just pad discoloration, but can't really be certain from this photo. In any case, that rotor is headed to the recycling bin!
Thanks for the warning. Approximately how many track days did it take to kill these?
I run the same rotors are they have the normal micro cracks. Nothing too deep or near the edges... yet.
I'll likely move up to a GS/Z06 setup once I kill mine. While the Z51 brakes are "better" they are still too small for the car once you start running gripper rubber.
Don't want to be a buzz killer here, but if I had to guess I would say that the brake pads were not up to the task and disintegrated allowing metal to metal contact, Just a guess but have you taken this apart to look at the pads? And what pads were you running?
I used the DBA T3 rotors and Raybestos ST43 pads and never saw anything like this.
I've been using Carbotech 24s. They brake awesome, but wear out in about 3 good full track days. And yes, I'm "setting" them for a millisecond before starting the "shark fin" chart braking sequence.
Now on the advise of my track day operator (Turn2 Lapping, here at the Ridge Motorsports Park), I've switched to Raybestos ST43s. However, thinking about buying a trailer, and if so will "upgrade" to ST45 or 47, depending on more in-depth research.
So now a couple days in the garage with four new DBAs, remanufactured front calipers, going to rebuild the rears, new ST43s, and brake fluid flush.
I've been using Carbotech 24s. They brake awesome, but wear out in about 3 good full track days. And yes, I'm "setting" them for a millisecond before starting the "shark fin" chart braking sequence.
Now on the advise of my track day operator (Turn2 Lapping, here at the Ridge Motorsports Park), I've switched to Raybestos ST43s. However, thinking about buying a trailer, and if so will "upgrade" to ST45 or 47, depending on more in-depth research.
So now a couple days in the garage with four new DBAs, remanufactured front calipers, going to rebuild the rears, new ST43s, and brake fluid flush.
Oh cool, I also live in PNW : )))
I settled with ST47s front, and ST43s rear for my car. They have been working great. My brother has not been happy with ST45s when he tried them as a front pad (on a Viper), and it also caused vibrations for a while when he switched back to ST47s for fronts until the material cleared out (so ST45s are not very mixable with other pads in the series).
Here's one of my recent visits to RMP:
Thanks for the warning. Approximately how many track days did it take to kill these?
I run the same rotors are they have the normal micro cracks. Nothing too deep or near the edges... yet.
I'll likely move up to a GS/Z06 setup once I kill mine. While the Z51 brakes are "better" they are still too small for the car once you start running gripper rubber.
About 12-15 believe. Yes, the rotors are grooved, and my bad for not checking them after my previous two track day. I keep an eye on the surface cracking, but neglected to run my finger across the rotor afterwards.
And also, I'm heading that there's already problems with C8 Z51 brakes. Along with frunk and seatbelts. Hopefully my 2022 Z06 will clear up these and more "first year" ****lies.
I settled with ST47s front, and ST43s rear for my car. They have been working great. My brother has not been happy with ST45s when he tried them as a front pad (on a Viper), and it also caused vibrations for a while when he switched back to ST47s for fronts until the material cleared out (so ST45s are not very mixable with other pads in the series).
Here's one of my recent visits to RMP: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvszLCaCJls
Note: ST pads last a lot longer than Carbotech pads. I'd think ~3x.
Why did you choose to mix ST43s and 47s? I've head that ST43s are good if you're going to drive to the track, but ST45s or 47s are good if you're going to trailer your car, as the 45s and 47s won't stop very well at slow speed before they're warmed up. If I decide to buy a trailer, was thinking about switching to 45s or 47s.
That's not correct: ST47s stop pretty well when cold, too but will be more abrasive to rotors, which we don't care since rotors crack before they wear out.
We use ST47s year-round. I never switch back to street pads. St43 has 10% or so less bite. We use wider front tires, and a bit more front bias gets the system closer to real balance. EBDC will handle balancing, yes, but bringing it closer to physical balance makes it behave better at the very threshold right before the lockup. I'm not sure if it's a big deal, though, and I have used ST47s all around as well with no issues.
Track days
