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2017 GS, A8, 15000 Mi
Suddenly, my Passenger side NPP Actuator starting spazzing out, causing the Butterfly Valve to flap - loudly.
"CLICK,CLICK,CLICK,CLICK,CLICK,CLICK ..."
Currently, the problem is intermittent.
Any cure or remedy beside replacement or a #42(?) Fuse Pull?
Last edited by RiCorvette; Jun 30, 2021 at 02:53 AM.
I was just about to post the same problem, mine on a 2016 Z06.
I have found in front of the "problem" actuator / valve, a big chunk of the high flow Catalytic Converter (Must have been a cheap pair installed for compliance here in Australia). I removed the chunk after braking it up into smaller pieces and hoped the Actuator would stop clicking but same as you CLICK,CLICK,CLICK etc. I does not fully close, about 95% of the way, then snaps back open, over and over.
To temporarily stop it I have through the infotainment settings programmed the exhaust to track mode in all driving modes so that the valve is not powered closed (open all the time).
I have also noticed if I push the valve fully closed when it is Clicking away, it stops until the engine is restarted or if I change the exhaust mode from track to touring then away it goes again.
I have tried to attach a short video, but it looks like only pictures can be attached.
Hoping someone has an answer? Does it need to re-learn its position again or something like that??
Id check the electrical connection first and make sure it's securely plugged in.
Definitely a good idea, and I’ve unplugged it, and reattached it twice with no change.
Anyone know if these electric actuators have some sort of internal position sensor that may have got out of alignment when I’m my case a big chunk of Catalytic converter jammed up against the valve?
I haven't checked thoroughly yet, but instead of Cat Debris as in Cardinalm's case, could carbon build-up/corrosion be the culprit?. Maybe a squirt of WD40 in the tube at the valve shaft pivot points could help?
I pulled Fuse 42 for the time being. Predictably, no more clicking.
I recently had the same issue on my 2019. It sounded like two flattened tin cans slapping together. Pulled the fuse and it stopped. It was a $450 repair under the BTB Warranty for one actuator.
Interesting issue - OP when you find out the cause, please post up the fix.
I'm inclined to think it's some obstruction, like Post 2 opined, but don't see anything in the tube. so I surmise it's prolly corrosion or carbon build up.
I guess I'll replace the fuse and give WD40 a shot (pun intended )
Last edited by RiCorvette; Jun 30, 2021 at 02:17 PM.
Well, no luck with WD40 - so I removed the fuse again
I've been using PB Blaster for years here on the farm and I've found it to be much more effective than WD-40 for loosening rusted parts. Can't hurt to give it a try.
I am wondering if in my case the obstruction from the parts of the CAT did something to the position of the actuator. It by the look of it doesn't make it 100% of the way closed before the electrical signal stops (I guess) as it slams open (sprung open, electorally closed). I can push it fully closed and it stays there until I change mode again or turn the car off.
I am thinking of making up some wires to send the signal/power from the bad side to the good side to see if the transfers the problem to the other side. If it does the problem is before the actuator, if it doesn't the problem is the actuator. I'm guessing it will be the actuator, and my problem being in Australia it won't be easy to get one, even googling at part I have not had any success yet. Is it the same electronic actuator unit that is used in front of the muffler on the AFM cars (non NPP cars)?
I'll try again to upload a video of the valve.
Michael
Appears that I cant upload a short 14mb .MOV file :-/ But I can show a pic of the CAT (not the ***** type) up the exhaust, which I broke up and removed and still had the clicking problem..
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