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If you don't plan on racing it all day, every day, 575-600 should be ok. Beyond that, I wouldn't feel comfortable if it was my car.
What evidence / experience do you have to make that claim?
Multiple nationally known C7 builders have all told me up to 700 hp at the crank is safe with a proper conservative tune. It’s north of 700hp or those with poor tunes running too lean that have the potential for issues to happen sooner than later (is what they have told me). Biggest issue north of 575 hp is fuel and IATs resulting in timing being pulled reducing power. If you address those issues you can safely get to 675-700 wheel hp. So if you supercharge only you are only going to get 550 wheel hp safely. If you add methanol you can easily bump that up to 650-675 wheel hp.
I am NOT a builder or expert. I’m just stating what nationally known C7 builders have told me in one on one conversations about my build when I was searching for the right person to build my C7.
What evidence / experience do you have to make that claim?
Multiple nationally known C7 builders have all told me up to 700 hp at the crank is safe with a proper conservative tune. It’s north of 700hp or those with poor tunes running too lean that have the potential for issues to happen sooner than later (is what they have told me). Biggest issue north of 575 hp is fuel and IATs resulting in timing being pulled reducing power. If you address those issues you can safely get to 675-700 wheel hp. So if you supercharge only you are only going to get 550 wheel hp safely. If you add methanol you can easily bump that up to 650-675 wheel hp.
I am NOT a builder or expert. I’m just stating what nationally known C7 builders have told me in one on one conversations about my build when I was searching for the right person to build my C7.
With stock LT1 internals, no forged pistons, I personally wouldn’t go above 575-600 and feel safe. I’ve never built a LT1, but I built a LS3 mated to a tr6060. Above 625 HP, the stock clutch had to go. It’s all about the weakest link in your build as you continue to add power. Again, it’s a matter of how you plan on using it. If you’re going to build it to say you have the HP, that’s fine. If you’re going to build it and use the power often, then the LT1 internals need to be upgraded. I’m a weekend garage monkey, not a national builder. No sponsors, nor unlimited well of money for me. So before I spend the money, I want to make sure I have a solid base to build on.
With stock LT1 internals, no forged pistons, I personally wouldn’t go above 575-600 and feel safe. I’ve never built a LT1, but I built a LS3 mated to a tr6060. Above 625 HP, the stock clutch had to go. It’s all about the weakest link in your build as you continue to add power. Again, it’s a matter of how you plan on using it. If you’re going to build it to say you have the HP, that’s fine. If you’re going to build it and use the power often, then the LT1 internals need to be upgraded. I’m a weekend garage monkey, not a national builder. No sponsors, nor unlimited well of money for me. So before I spend the money, I want to make sure I have a solid base to build on.
please don’t take my post as being an *** toward your original post. I was seriously interested in your background and rationale for stating the 575 hp because it conflicted with what well known builders have told me.
I’m interested because I’m about to go down that path with my Grand Sport. The Magnuson 2650 has been on order for 8 weeks. Coming in in 2 more weeks. My target hp is 675 wheel hp, but that is with long tube headers and methanol as well. I want a conservative tune because the last thing I want is my engine blowing up…although that can happen- even with a stock engine.
The plan is to have internals with cam done next year.
No offense taken, and it's a great idea to get the internals done. The C7 LT motor internals got better over the production run as the higher HP motors were introduced. There are several informative articles around here (from a couple years back) comparing the GM upgrades to the internals on the LT4 vs LT1 and then the LT5 vs the LT4. Good luck on your build. Everything I've ever owned always started out as "I'll keep this one stock", but that fails quickly. The need for "more power" is a serious addiction.
Are they still going to be making 6.2L engines in 2916?
The answer is no. I just got back from 2916 in my time machine and there were no cars. All vehicles were flying machines powered by antigravity propulsion...
What evidence / experience do you have to make that claim?
Multiple nationally known C7 builders have all told me up to 700 hp at the crank is safe with a proper conservative tune. It’s north of 700hp or those with poor tunes running too lean that have the potential for issues to happen sooner than later (is what they have told me). Biggest issue north of 575 hp is fuel and IATs resulting in timing being pulled reducing power. If you address those issues you can safely get to 675-700 wheel hp. So if you supercharge only you are only going to get 550 wheel hp safely. If you add methanol you can easily bump that up to 650-675 wheel hp.
I am NOT a builder or expert. I’m just stating what nationally known C7 builders have told me in one on one conversations about my build when I was searching for the right person to build my C7.
There have been plenty of cars built that are at 700 to the tire and about ~10 psi of boost. Some have even stretched that boundary. At the end of the day it is ALLLLLLL in the tune. North of 10 psi on a stock LT1 piston is just asking for trouble. However there are fueling SHORT CUTS like methanol that allow you to stretch that boost number. LT1s run at a high compression and any tiny variation in fueling or timing will result in a piston letting go. Trust me I have been there. I will never run a setup that relies on meth injection again. It is a nice band aid to get you a dyno number you are looking for, but it is not sustainable long term. Too many issues with leaks, pumps, etc.
I ran at 600 wheel and 700 wheel without major issue, but the moment I wanted to go beyond 700 wheel and 10 psi I built a motor.
There have been plenty of cars built that are at 700 to the tire and about ~10 psi of boost. Some have even stretched that boundary. At the end of the day it is ALLLLLLL in the tune. North of 10 psi on a stock LT1 piston is just asking for trouble. However there are fueling SHORT CUTS like methanol that allow you to stretch that boost number. LT1s run at a high compression and any tiny variation in fueling or timing will result in a piston letting go. Trust me I have been there. I will never run a setup that relies on meth injection again. It is a nice band aid to get you a dyno number you are looking for, but it is not sustainable long term. Too many issues with leaks, pumps, etc.
I ran at 600 wheel and 700 wheel without major issue, but the moment I wanted to go beyond 700 wheel and 10 psi I built a motor.
Well said sir!! I’m at just over 600rwhp at 8 psi with meth. Adding all lt4 fuel system this winter and Dsx lowside. Gonna add another pound or 2 to it and not rely so much on the meth but going on the E again. Hoping to see closer to the 675 number. Don’t do anything more than 1/4 mile runs and some 60/130 rolls. Gonna go with Pat g and email tuning back and forth with hp tuners. He says I’m on the right page,and he has a great reputation with the lt1 platform.
Last edited by Gary barnes 1098; Oct 5, 2021 at 08:26 PM.